How to Spend One Day in Mainz, Germany

February 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

Tons of people each year end up with a layover in Frankfurt, and many opt to stay the night, but most probably make it to this gem – the city of Mainz, which is on the Frankfurt metro system. I didn’t even know Mainz existed, except perhaps an obscure reference in my high school history class a long time ago. But when I saw pictures of a fellow expat friend (thanks, Lisa!) taking a trip there to see the Chagall Windows of one of the churches, I knew I had to make a stop during my next visit to Frankfurt.

I had originally planned to go to Mainz for just a couple of hours in the morning, but was having such a wonderful time I ended up spending the entire day! And Mainz also had one of the most beautiful things I saw all of last year, which you can read more about in my Thanksgiving post here.

My visit to Mainz occurred almost exactly a year ago – in the dead of winter. My top 2 highlights? the Chagall Windows at St. Stephan’s Church & the Gutenberg Museum, seeing multiple Gutenberg Bibles.

If Mainz absolutely charmed me in the coldest weather of the year, you’ll love it whenever you are able to go!

Things to Do

Around Town

Gutenberg Museum

If you know your history, you’ll recall that Johannes Gutenberg invented the printing press in the mid-1400s, which was revolutionary in allowing for the mass printing of books and pamphlets, spreading knowledge and improving literacy across all social classes. Although the machine was a feat of engineering, printing in those days was part art, part science, and Gutenberg’s printing of the Bible (and many other books and pamphlets) created some of the world’s most prized possessions. You’ll catch all of the relevant history at the museum, but be sure to time your visit to catch one of the printing press demonstrations by the friendly staff and also leave enough time to savor the beauty of the original Gutenberg Bibles on display. I couldn’t help but stand there awestruck, and visited the room with the Bibles again and again as I walked through different floors of the museum. Seeing the Gutenberg Bibles was one of my absolute highlights of all of 2016 – and that’s saying a lot!

Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom)

Located in the central pedestrian area, this Cathedral has been around for over 1,000 years, and its history can be traced in the different architectural styles of the building and adornments. Take your time strolling through to appreciate the details of the artistry and history displayed throughout, and be sure to visit the outdoor courtyard.

Market Square (Marktplatz)

Surrounding many of these ‘Around Town’ attractions is the market square, part of the broader pedestrian plazas and streets. Even when not en route to or from one of the attractions, take the time to wander the old part of the city and join the daily rhythm of the locals.

St. Augustine’s Church (Augustinerkirche)

Not far from the Mainz Cathedral – and a few hundred years younger – the Augustinerkirche has a very different feel. The interior decorations here are quite elaborate and include many gold accents typical of the Baroque style, and is beautiful in its own right.

Off the Beaten Path

Citadel (Zitadelle)

The Citadel is an entire complex, originally an abbey and later a fortress, and has a lot of trails to stroll around. Housed on site is also the Historical Museum of Mainz and from April until October you can even take tours a couple of days a week that take you on and to the underground areas of the Citadel.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While the main website linked above is in German, if you scroll to the bottom of the homepage there is an option to switch your browsing language to English.

Synagogue, Synagogenplatz

Built less than a decade ago, the new synagogue of Mainz serves a local Jewish community nearly 1,000 people strong. The building is striking from the outside – seemingly an abstract, modernist creation – but in reality comprised of the hebrew letters for kedusha, holiness. In a moment of travel serendipity, one of the staff peeked out while I was photographing the synagogue’s exterior (as you can see in the photo above!) and was kind enough to let me in and join a tour that was in progress, so I got to view the synagogue’s stunning interior as well. Although picture-taking of the sanctuary was not allowed, you can see the incredible features of the building on the architect’s website here. The synagogue was the spot I visited that was farthest from the historical center, but local trams will get you there easily (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

Old Synagogue

The previous synagogue of Mainz no longer stands, however there is a plaque commemorating its location. Originally constructed in 1878, it was damaged during Kristallnacht in 1938 and then destroyed in 1942 by bombings during World War II. Above you can see the rendering of what it looked like before it was destroyed, a model that was on display at the new Synagogue when I visited.

Roman Theater

There is not a ton to see, although it is an interesting juxtaposition to have the ancient Roman Theater abutting the modern train station. Since you’re likely to arrive in Mainz right nearby (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s worth the short stroll from the train station to check it out.

Chagall Windows St Stephan 20160122_115617

St. Stephan’s Church

People make a special journey to this church (and even the city of Mainz) for one thing – the blue Chagall windows. Notable as the only German church that the Jewish artist Marc Chagall designed for, his signature stained glass windows are even more breathtaking in person. The church is located a bit away from the most central part of town, but is another one of the absolute highlights of my visit to Mainz, and probably the #1 attraction for most tourists. Be sure to make this a priority during your time in Mainz!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The main Mainz website offers itineraries for a variety of self-guided city walks, to help you logically navigate the different sights that interest you most.

Best Bites

Eisgrub-Bräu

The oldest brewery in Mainz, this is a great spot to grab a beer and sample some delicious, traditional German food. The brewing takes place on site, so you’ll see the giant tanks inside the restaurant, maturing the several different types of in-house brews. The restaurant is a short stroll from the central pedestrian area – just far enough away that it was completely packed with locals when I went. I was on my own, but if you’re in a group (or really ambitious) you can order the giant cylinder with over 2 liters of beer!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This restaurant is open for weekday lunch, while many restaurants in town are only open for dinner during the week. Anywhere you’re planning to eat, be sure to check the operating hours ahead of time.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Coming from anywhere on the Frankfurt metro, a day pass is a great, economical option. And if you get a train pass, it’s also valid for transportation within the city of Mainz. There is an extensive tram system that takes you between different parts of town, saving you some walking and quite helpful in bad (or cold) weather.

Also, there are multiple train stops in Mainz. For access to the historical center and quaint pedestrian areas, you’ll want to travel to the S-bahn stop by the Roman Theater: Mainz Römisches Theater.

For me Mainz really over-delivered, with the Gutenberg Bibles being the absolute highlight that I couldn’t get enough of, but by no stretch the only amazing and beautiful thing I saw during my day there.

What’s your favorite part about Mainz? Any other tips for a visit? And what was the last city that wowed you unexpectedly? Share away in the Comments!

How to Spend One Day - 24 hours - in Mainz Germany

Travel Hack: Extra Items You Can Carry On a Plane for FREE

January 24, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 64 comments

As I was standing in line to board my Ryan Air flight back home to Milan from a travel blogging conference in Stockholm two summers ago, I was the vision of chaos.

There was the cardigan and scarf draped over my purse, an umbrella dangling from my wrist, and the bag of food I was holding from the Östermalms Saluhall food hall.

In addition to my purse (‘personal item’ in airline lingo) and my wheeled luggage.

I looked just a little bit different from everyone else in line holding their 2 allowed items and no more.

As everyone looked on in wonder, the flight attendants didn’t bat an eyelash and I boarded with no trouble at all.

No, they weren’t just shirking their jobs, it’s actually the *official policy* of many airlines to let all sorts of additional items on board that don’t count toward your baggage limit.

For those of you who may not know, Ryan Air is a discount European carrier that like most cheap-o airlines, make you pay extra for pretty much everything, including advance seat assignments.

But even with many (although not all) discount carriers, there are plenty of things you can wear or carry outside of the strict measurement limits for luggage when you board.

Extra Stuff You’re Allowed to Carry On

No, really!!

Many airlines even have these items explicitly listed in their official policy if you know where to look on their website.

There are actually a ton of things you can just carry in your hands if you somehow ran out of space in your luggage.

TIP! There are links to some sample policies from around the world toward the bottom of this post.

First of all, don’t squeeze the last ounce of free space out of your baggage on your way *to* somewhere, you’ll need all the wiggle room you can get on the return trip.

Inevitably, even if I don’t buy much along the way, it always seems harder to get everything to fit properly in my luggage when packing it all up on the final night of a trip.

So these tips are really intended for when you have that last item or two you just can’t squeeze in but still want to take back with you.

Here are all of the items that you can wear, hold, or have clipped outside of the allowed luggage dimensions when you board:

Jacket

Even if you’re not cold, even if you’re heading into a tropical heatwave, you can still wear your jacket when you board to free up luggage space.

And there’ll probably even be space in the overhead bin or under your seat if you don’t want to wear it for the entire flight. Or just drape it over your lap – plane rides can get very chilly sometimes.

Clothing Layers

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Sep 19, 2017 at 10:03am PDT

Coming back from my recent trip to Nicaragua, right before I boarded I needed to smush my purse into my backpack so it was a single ‘personal item’ for boarding.

Since the backpack was pretty full already, I wore my cardigan and scarf and tied my fleece jacket around my waist. Instant space creator.

You might not be able to wear all your layers for your security screening, but you sure can wear them to board the plane.

Neck Pillow

Many wheeled bags have a strap you can clip your neck pillow to if you can’t fit it inside.

This is probably the accessory you’ve seen carried separate from luggage most often besides a jacket, and some people even wear it around their neck to board!

Umbrella

I can often wedge this at the bottom of my wheeled back in between the two sides of the handle, but if you’re really strapped for space, it’s not a problem to carry this item separately.

Just put it somewhere on the plane where you’ll remember to bring it with you when you leave.

Camera/Camera Bag

In a pinch, I’ve strapped my bulky camera bag for my ‘fancy camera’ to the outside of my wheeled bag because I just couldn’t get that zipper to close with it inside.

Which is totally fine, because this is also an item that is allowed to be separate from your outer luggage dimension limits.

Hat

When you see someone boarding a place wearing their cowboy hat or wide-brimmed straw hat from the beach, it might not just be a fashion statement.

Wearing it to board can save you precious luggage space if you’re struggling to zip that bag.

Duty Free Purchases

This must be part of some secret backroom deal between airports and airlines.

No matter how bulky or numerous your duty-free items, it’s totally fine to bring them onto the plane with you in addition to your other luggage.

And in some cases, if you purchase alcohol, you won’t even receive your duty-free bag until right as you board.

Merchandise purchased at airport

In many cases, any kind of merchandise purchased at the airport (and especially takeaway food that you’ll probably consume in-flight anyway) don’t count toward your luggage.

Of course, it helps to have this in some sort of obvious container or bag as you board.

TIP! Whether you have the space in your luggage or not, liquids over the 3mL are great items to purchase once you’re through security. On my last trip, both the 500mL water bottle and the 200mL sunscreen I purchased served me well in my travels!

Reading Material

Just hold your book in your hand. There is so much queuing involved with boarding an airplane between getting scanned and making it through the jetbridge, I’m usually holding a book or e-reader in my hand to keep me entertained anyway!

Infant Accessories

I don’t have children, but if you do, there are extra allowances for bringing on board baby supplies, even if the infant will be sitting in your lap the whole time.

These include a car seat, collapsible stroller, and a bag up to 5kg/11 lbs – or more! – with food and diapers (nappies) to cover whatever the baby might need during the flight.

Medical Devices

The interpretation here can be broad, but at a minimum include a cane or crutches, collapsible wheelchair, and any oxygen or dialysis devices you’re dependent on.

All free of charge.

Of course, the exact specifications vary by carrier, and you’ll definitely want to check the specific policy of any airline you’re planning to fly.

Some strict carriers aside (hi EasyJet!), most airlines won’t stop you from boarding while holding any of the above items with you, even if it’s not explicitly mentioned anywhere on their website.

Carry-On Baggage Policies from Around the World

Many policies explicitly will list most, or all of the items above. And some carriers, like Avianca (see below) even allow balloons!

Here are some specific policies from around the world:

North American carrier

Click here for the United Airlines policy
Scroll to bulleted list

South American carrier

Click here for the Avianca Airlines policy
Scroll to “What Can You Take?” then expand “Additional Items”

European carrier

Click here for the Air France policy
Scroll down to yellow border with “Additional Items You May Take on Board…”

Middle Eastern carrier

Click here for the Qatar Airways policy
Expand “Hand baggage allowance” & see box with “Carry more on board”

Asian carrier

Click here for the Malaysia Airlines policy
See #2 and #3

Even if there is no mention in the official boarding policy of the airline you’re flying, so long as it’s not a discount carrier, in all likelihood, no one will stop you with any 3-5 (or even ALL) of the knick knacks listed above whether you’re wearing or holding them or they’re clipped to the outside of your luggage like a neck pillow or camera bag.

I’ve flown dozens of airlines, and never once been stopped with any of the above accessories as I boarded!

Happy flying!!
Lana

Do you usually carry any of the above items outside of your luggage when you board a plane? Any time that you were prevented from bringing one of them on? Anything I missed in terms of carry-on luggage tips? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Practical Tips: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

April 11, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Most people want to eat well on the road, but exactly how to find the best restaurants when you travel can be a tricky endeavor. Most travel destinations are inherently unfamiliar, and restaurants may not operate the way things do “back home,” wherever that is.

Fortunately there are quite a few strategies I’ve picked up in my travels over the years. Not anything is perfectly foolproof, but there are many way to maximize the chances you will be eating fabulous food when you travel.

What to Do

There are plenty of things you can actively do, both before and during a trip, to steer yourself toward delicious restaurants wherever you’ll be visiting. If eating well is a priority for you when you travel, here are a few things to do to ensure you’re eating your best!

Before You Go

Preparation goes a long way when it come to eating well on the road. Here are some specific ways I find great restaurant options in advance:

Research restaurant options ahead of time

Whether your preference is to flip through a physical guidebook or read blog posts online, take the time to research what restaurants are serving great food for you to check out. This is also a great time to keep an eye out for local specialties that are mentioned so you can do some additional searching for the best spots to sample them. It’s also important to plot restaurants on a map, so you know what other sights and activities are nearby.

TIP! Do enough research that you have at least one option in the different areas of the city or town you’ll visit.

TIP! If there are several recommended restaurants close to one another, when I am there in person I will walk by all of the options, read the menus, peek inside, and then decide where to go.

TIP! Sometimes there are great options far out of the city center, which may not be feasible if you have time constraints, so figure out in advance whether you need other closer restaurant options or will make the trek.

Read online restaurant reviews

This seems basic, but not all online reviews are created equal. In recent years, I have found that Google reviews tend to be relatively accurate, with many locals usually contributing, and there is the added convenience of having reviews in other languages automatically being translated into yours. Plus, if you search Google.com for “best restaurants in Venice,” you can then filter by rating, seeing only the results that are rated 4.0+ or 4.5+ out of 5 possible stars.

I tend to use it less for popular places, but if you are headed to a more off-the-beaten path destination, TripAdvisor is a great site to use. And especially for destinations that are not typically popular with tourists, it may be the only resource at your disposal. I found restaurant review information to be very limited on my recent work trip to Haiti, and

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Feb 24, 2018 at 5:55am PST

Do targeted online searches

This is one of the best ways I’ve found to identify great restaurants to check out when I visit a new place. Instead of sticking to lists with blanket restaurant recommendations, I look for something specific in that place:

“<city/country name> foodie”
“<city/country name> best local dishes”
“Best Brunch in Sydney”
“Best Coffee in Detroit”
“Best White Rose Dumplings in Hoi An”
“Best Cardamom Buns in Stockholm”

TIP! Also do targeted searches in the local language if it’s not English. It’s easy to use an online dictionary to translate so instead of looking for “Florentine steak in Florence” you’re finding the Italian results by looking for “bistecca alla fiorentina Firenze.” (This is how I found my favorite place in Florence to get this local specialty!)

Ask locals or frequent visitors

Even if you don’t think you have any connection to a place you’re traveling, you might be surprised. While I didn’t know any locals in Barcelona, Spain or Port-au-Prince, Haiti, a friend-of-a-friend was a frequent Barcelona visitor with great recommendations and I was steered in the right direction by my friend’s aunt who visits Haiti often to do non-profit work. In both cases, I had no idea I had a connection – until I asked.

Reserve some restaurants in advance

If there is a place you’ll definitely want to go, it may be worth it (or necessary!) to book your meal in advance. Certain countries rely on reservations more than others and it is also helpful for any popular, high-end restaurants you may be considering, like something from the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants or the most popular Michelin-starred restaurants in a major city.

TIP! Be flexible with what time you’re willing to reserve and consider lunch as an option to increase your chances of obtaining a hard-to-get reservation.

During Your Trip

Sure, preparation is great, but it’s nothing compared to actually being at a destination. There are also plenty of things you can do once you arrive to find the best restaurants and eat well:

Ask at your accommodation

Whether you’re staying at a hotel or an AirBNB, either the concierge or your host probably has great information about the local dining options. In both cases, if there’s something specific you’re looking for (think trendy, or authentic, or a particular cuisine), they can probably help. When in Verona, Italy, I had Osteria da Ugo recommended to me at my hotel when I was looking for local cuisine and it became my go-to restaurant there for return visits.

Ask a local for recommendations

This doesn’t need to be a formal process, but every local you encounter – from asking for directions to taking a taxi ride – is a potential source of great local intel about the best restaurants. I got some great restaurant pointers from someone I met admiring a mural in San Ignacio, Belize.

TIP! Be sure not to just ask for a blanket restaurant recommendation, because you may just have the local suggest the fanciest tourist spot in town they think will be good for a tourist. Instead, be specific with your request. If you want somewhere local, ask where the taxi drivers hang out or locals go.

Keep your eyes open as you stroll

You may already be on the path that will take you to the best food of your trip. Keep an eye out for long winding lines of locals like you’ll see at popular spots like Luini Panzerotti in Milan, Italy, or an appetizing item from a street vendor, like my favorite panelle (fried pancakes made with chick pea flour) in Palermo, Sicily or an amazing local buffet I sampled in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

TIP! Even if it’s not mealtime or you’ve already eaten, keep an eye out to see where locals are gravitating or if you see a cute spot you want to mark on a map to return to for a meal later.

Try out restaurants with a menu you can’t understand

Be adventurous and don’t let a restaurant dissuade you even if there’s no English menu in sight. I had some of my best European meals at restaurants in Mainz, Germany Vienna, Austria and Liechtenstein that all only had German menus but were otherwise inviting. Usually there was a server who could help me to figure things out.

TIP! When in doubt, try dishes or drinks you don’t know the name for. If you see something that looks appetizing, pointing still works for communicating that to a server. Or that time in Bruges, Belgium I picked my beer based on its cool glass, and it turns out I like how Kwak tastes as well!

Follow Your Instincts

No matter how much research you’ve done or how good the online reviews say a restaurant will be, ultimately you need to trust your instincts. On a day trip to Orvieto, Italy from Rome, I had identified a few restaurants as possible lunch options. However as I walked past each in turn during my morning exploring and peeked at their menus, I was not particularly inspired. Another restaurant along the way looked cute and seemed to have special local dishes I hadn’t seen on any other menus, so I went there instead of the places on my list and had an incredible meal!

What to Avoid

While there are plenty of things to seek out, there are also quite a view things that I try to avoid when I travel so I can also avoid having a disappointing restaurant experience. There’s always a limited number of meals you’ll get to experience wherever you’re visiting a destination– and I like to make them the best meals I can!

Things that will make me look for another place to eat:

A “Tourist Menu” or big signboard with multiple menu translations

In all likelihood, I can get a foreigners’ version of a local dish back at home. When I’m on the road, I’m looking to taste the authentic food of a city or country as one of the ways I learn about the destination, not getting something that’s been altered to fit tourists’ tastes.

Being right next to major tourist attractions

Any restaurant that is immediately adjacent to a major tourist attraction has no incentive to produce good food. It will have customers looking for a restaurant out of convenience regardless. So even if I am trying to find a convenient meal, I will walk at least a block or two away for what are likely better and more reasonably priced dining options. This strategy paid large dividends in Berat, Albania:

Hearing lots of English and not the local language

While I wouldn’t expect customers anywhere to be completely comprised of locals, hearing an overwhelming amount of English being spoken somewhere (if it’s not the local language) may mean that a restaurant is catering to foreigners and not locals. Any good restaurant will still attract locals even if there are a lot of tourists who eat there as well.

Greeters posted at the street offering you menus and inviting you in

Maybe that’s how it happens in the movies, but in real life, the best restaurants are always busy and don’t need to work so hard to entice people in. I often see this in my travels along pedestrian streets where all the restaurants are virtually indistinguishable and can only attract business by paying someone to stand outside and usher in customers. A better meal is likely waiting at a restaurant that does not need to do this.

Unsanitary appearance

If something looks off when you first approach a location, take that as a sign that the restaurant does not take great care with its food either. If I see somewhere that is excessively dirty or has visible bugs or animal droppings, I don’t stick around to find out what the food is like. Even if I’ve already sat down.

A restaurant that is not that busy

Certainly there are exceptions to this one – if you are eating earlier or later than typical meal time, for example – but in general if a restaurant is pretty deserted, there is a reason for that. Again, it depends on the context, but even if a spot got great reviews and is on my list, if I walk up and it doesn’t look popular, I am likely to go elsewhere.

Of course, none of these strategies is completely effective, but by doing research in advance and keeping an eye out as I visit a new place, the chances are much greater that I will be finding the best restaurants and eating well on my trip.

What do you look for when picking a restaurant in your travels? Any other things you seek out or avoid? Share your best tips in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Summer Reading List

June 27, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Summertime means vacation for many, and even though I don’t have any long trips planned for this summer, one of the best ways I relax and unwind is curling up with a good book.

Instead of being stuck with what to read next, I always spend some time in June compiling a Summer Reading List. Whether I take a train or airplane, some of my best reading usually happens in transit – and I like to have a variety of books in mind to keep me entertained.

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2017

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2019

This new Summer Reading List is as eclectic as my travel style, so you’ll find it packed with both fiction and non-fiction, covering my randomly-determined categories of Easy Reading, Memoir, On a More Serious Note, Self Improvement, & Thriller.

Here’s what made it onto my 2018 ‘Summer Reading List’:

EASY READING

Circe

by Madeline Miller

This Greek goddess who is the daughter of Helios breaks out into her own and after being banished by Zeus has some of the more memorable encounters in Greek mythology with the Minotaur, Icarus, and Odysseus. Billed as part-fantasy, part-drama, this will definitely offer an escape to another world.