How to Spend One Day in Bergamo, Italy

September 26, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Imagine a raised plateau, like one of the mesas of the American southwest or Uluru (formerly Ayer’s Rock) in central Australia. Usually you’ll encounter a formation like this out in nature.

But in northern Italy’s town of Bergamo, there is a large plateau with a UNESCO World Heritage old town perched at the top, surrounded by modern Bergamo, Italy.

It is this division that makes Bergamo unique, split into the historical, raised Città Alta with its meandering pedestrian cobblestone walkways and the lower Città Bassa with a bustling, modern city.

Bergamo is so close to Milan that it houses one of the three airports of the metropolitan area, and is easily reached by car or train in around an hour (more details in the ‘Getting There‘ section below).

The upper city has incredible charm and a quite lengthy history, with all of its attractions close to one another in easy walking distance, making it an ideal destination for a day trip.

Here’s how to make the most of a one-day visit:

Around Town

Don’t be overwhelmed by the number of items listed below as sights to see. Bergamo is a town made for wandering, and the Città Alta is so compact that you can easily stroll between everywhere I’ve listed at a pretty leisurely pace.

Piazza Vecchia

The Piazza Vecchia, or old square, is the central space in Bergamo’s Città Alta, with many of Bergamo’s sights either on the square or nearby. It is a gathering place that is especially lively on weekends, with many visitors and street performers clustered all around.

Palazzo della Ragione

Right on the Piazza, this regional palace served many functions over many centuries, and has exhibitions that rotate seasonally.

My favorite spot is underneath the open archways at street level, where there is a centuries-old sundial, that still marks the passing seasons. At noon daily, the sun will still meet the mark on the ground corresponding to the month and day.

Campanone Civic Tower

If you’ve been reading the blog for a bit, by now you’ve probably picked up on the fact that I both like to climb things and also enjoy an expansive view in a new place.

Ascending this Civic Tower (by elevator or on foot) gives you the highest perspective you’ll get on the already high up Città Alta, getting a sense for the overall layout of the small area and providing some pretty fabulous glimpses of the surrounding countryside.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Just a quick glance at the outside of this stunning Basilica gives an inkling of the treasures that must be contained within its walls. Leave some time to go inside and explore, as you can easily get lost in the many works of art.

Baptistery

There is also the nearby ornate Baptistery, or Battistero, where babies would be baptized before being allowed into the main church.

Originally built inside the Basilica, it has now been relocated and is officially part of the Cathedral.

Duomo (Cathedral)

Pretty much every town in Italy has a main cathedral, and Bergamo is no exception. While beautiful, most visitors find it overshadowed by the Basilica, and will spend more of their time there.

Off the Beaten Path

There is plenty of wandering to be done on foot around the Città Alta, which I recommend leaving time to do. As you stroll, here are two spots of particular interest:

Convent of San Francisco

This ex-convent is a quiet spot away from most tourists with a lovely inner courtyard and a great view over the surrounding Città Bassa down below.

The complex also houses the History Museum of Bergamo, which I didn’t visit, although I loved strolling along the grounds despite my expression in the shot below.

Venetian Walls

What good is having a city on an elevated plateau without some defenses?

For over three centuries Bergamo was part of Venice’s extended empire, hence the aptly named Venetian walls. Yes, the walls are old, but really I love exploring any old city walls – not just for the history they represent, but also for the great views!

Best Bites

Città Alta

Ristorante Trattoria Bernabo

Although there are several higher-end restaurants scattered across Bergamo’s Città Alta, I’m all about down home cooking of the region when it comes to Italian food.

This restaurant not only has wood seating and décor that speak to the city’s history, but delivers basic, humble, and delicious local cuisine to satisfy your hunger and nourish your soul. It’s an especially great spot for lunch, with daily set menus and specials.

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

Although this spot is located right on the Piazza Vecchia, the main square, it hits that perfect balance between intense, pure flavor of the ingredient and creamy texture that I look for in a gelato.

Their fruit flavors are particularly delicious, with very concentrated flavor, and this ranks as one of the favorite gelato spots after three years of living in Italy (and much gelato consumption, trust me).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s also lovely to grab a drink anywhere there is outdoor seating, there are several spots with beautiful views around the Città Alta where you can linger and enjoy.

Città Bassa

Taverna Valtellinese

I once drove from Milan to Bergamo just for a few hours to meet someone for dinner. It seemed like a hassle to go up to the Città Alta just to eat (although that would have been very possible as well), so I found this gem in the Città Bassa, the lower, more modern part of the city.

The cuisine hails from the Valtellina region almost due north of Bergamo, although there are some general items you’d see on any Italian menu as well.

The highlight was the carne al bastone, a two-foot long stick of white ash tree with beef wrapped around it, cooked, and then served on the stick! I think I was so enthralled I completely failed at any picture-taking, but trust me, it’s a sight to be seen – check it out on the left plate in this photo here.

Getting There

Arriving in Bergamo

Orio al Serio Airport

As I mentioned before, one of Milan’s 3 major airports is located in Bergamo, and principally serves low-cost carriers like Ryanair. You can also arrive at Bergamo’s airport by transfer from other Milan-area airports.

From the Bergamo airport, there is a bus transfer that will take you to the center of town, and there are of course taxis as well.

Bus/Train

Other than arriving by bus from the airport (see above), the easiest way from the city of Milan to Bergamo is by train. You can check schedules and fares on the TrenItalia English website.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There are multiple train stations in Milan. Be sure to check which one you’re departing from, although you can search for all options at once on the TrenItalia website by selecting “Milano (tutte le stazioni).”

Driving

Driving was my most frequent method of arriving in Bergamo, which is right off the major east-west highway in norther Italy that runs between Turin and Venice.

There are ample parking lots in the center of Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower city), with several well-signed garages that you’ll find by a blue sign with the letter P.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Thorough instructions on How to Get to Bergamo by all the methods listed above.

Going up to the Città Alta

All of the ways listed above will get you to the Città Bassa, but if you want to get to the historical Città Alta, there are two main methods of arriving:

Funicular

The funicular, a tram up the steep slope connecting the Città Bassa to the Città Alta, is the main way to arrive for most visitors.

You can check out the timetable at the Funicular link above (it is Funicular C at the bottom of the page), but it runs so often, just go to the station and buy your ticket when you arrive.

Walking

The less-frequented path along a few streets is a bit steep, but worth meandering along for the lovely views along the way.

While facing the funicular station, start ascending to your right and follow the street until it ends and winds around to the left. It’s a little over a kilometer to the city gate, and will probably take around 20 minutes to arrive at the Città Alta entrance:

However you decide to structure (or not structure) your exploring, the town of Bergamo is an incredibly fun day trip with quite unique views as you see and stroll the two levels of the city.

One I liked so much I returned to again and again during my time living in Milan!

Have you been to Bergamo? Any spots you enjoyed that didn’t make my list? Any other questions about making the trip? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Spend One Day in Nassau, Bahamas

August 8, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The town of Nassau, Bahamas is probably best known for its famous hotels and luxury offerings in proximity to the cruise port. Like anywhere though, there is the veneer on display in immediate proximity of tourists, and the parts of the city locals typically frequent.

I love to stroll around a new place and just get a feel for the area, the architecture, and do some people watching to see how locals interact.

In Nassau it was striking how much of the general decay of the city was visible just walking a block or two away from the main stretch of downtown.

I saw a bit of trash lying around, which honestly I found reminiscent of Naples, Italy, a city with a lot of grit and character that is part of its charm.

For me, I appreciated seeing what felt like a more authentic side of the city, from haphazard wiring on telephone poles to billboards addressing STD prevention (Bahamas has one of the highest AIDS infection rates in the Caribbean). Alongside some of these grittier sections though were flowers in bloom and lush greenery, alongside beautifully colorful buildings.

An interesting city for a day of exploring for sure!

Things to Do

Parliament Square

Just a few blocks from the water’s edge lies the colorful colonial buildings dating from the early 1800s that house the Parliament of the Bahamas in Nassau, the capital for all of the islands that make up this Caribbean nation.

Although still part of the British Commonwealth, the Bahamas became independent in the 1970s, and the decorations you see are celebrating the 44^th anniversary of independence.

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Nassau Public Library

The octagonal Library building is the same lovely pale pink you’ll see on buildings all around town. It was originally used as a colonial jail, and while the ground level now operates as the library, the second floor is a museum tracing the building’s history.

Unfortunately the museum upstairs is currently closed, but it’s worth popping in since it’s so close to downtown and other attractions.

Queen’s Staircase

This 65-step staircase was carved out by slaves in the 1790s as a way to connect the nearby fort to the city. Slavery finally ended under the British Empire under Queen Victoria, so it was later re-named the Queen’s Staircase.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Use the nearby water tower as a landmark to navigate toward them from the city, which is about a 10-15 minute walk from the cruise terminal if you arrive by ship.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! You may find someone giving an oral history of the area when you arrive. Me and the group of friends from the cruise ship enjoyed listening and left a small tip, althogh that is at your discretion.

Fort Fincastle

Once you climb the Queen’s Staircase, you’ll find Fort Fincastle nearby by looping around to your right.

The Fort itself has a few rooms with explanatory signs and some cannons, but the real reason to enter is to see the panoramic view of the city in all directions from the lookout point. It was intended to protect the nearby harbor, but was never used for that purpose, and later became a lighthouse.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There are lots of people begging for change and hawking souvenirs in this area, be prepared.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Admission to the Fort can be paid in US dollars. Bring small US change, including coins, if you can – one ticket when I visited was US$1.08, including tax.

Shopping

If you’ve ever taken a cruise before, you know that most cruise ports have plenty of shopping in close proximity, and Nassau, Bahamas is no exception.

There are tons of purveyors offering the typical range of souvenirs from t-shirts to knick knacks to local hot sauce, as well as lots of high-end jewelry and other duty-free items.

If you arrive on a cruise, you’ll probably get a shopping guide on the ship, otherwise your hotel or resort will certainly be able to point you in the right direction.

Best Bites & Sips – Where to Eat & Drink

Pirate Republic Brewing Company

Right in downtown Nassau, the Pirate Republic Brewing Company had my favorite craft beer of the trip, and touts itself as the first and only craft brewery in the Bahamas.

Don’t let their touristy location fool you, there is some serious brewing going on here, with a hefty dose of creativity, especially with the seasonal brews. The food also gets rave reviews although the kitchen closes mid-afternoon, so I was too late to sample anything.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re visiting on a cruise ship like I was, there’s no need to do the beer tasting excursion as it’s a short walk to this gem.

Lukka Kairi

Most people walk right past this local Bahamian spot to go to the nearby Señor Frogs, but that is a mistake.

Overlooking the water, Lukka Kairi is a peaceful spot to enjoy local cocktails and serves up the best conch fritters I’ve ever had! Other dishes pack an equally flavorful punch, with a perfect Caribbean balance of spice and flavor.

Certainly there are plenty of water and land activities all around the island, but if you’re in downtown Nassau, Bahamas, there is plenty easily accessible by foot in a small area for a day of exploring. And certainly the downtown area is a hub for shopping for anything you might want to bring home with you.

I enjoyed Nassau for getting a taste of the local history and culture, including some delicious food and drink along the way.

Have you been to Nassau, Bahamas? Any other activities you’d recommend for a day there? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below if there’s anything I should add to this list!

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Top 10 Things to See & Do at the Dubai Mall (that aren’t shopping!)

May 2, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 6 comments

Shopping isn’t exactly my thing, despite my years living in Milan, so you may be wondering exactly how I ended up at the Dubai Mall as my first stop in the UAE.

Arriving from Oman, after a week-long (and very hospitable time) on a road trip with my sister, she was in charge of picking our first destinations. We had already lined up a trip for the next day, so it would be our time to explore Dubai together before she flew home.

I had an extra day before I would be leaving, so I deferred to my sister. And the spot she wanted to check out most was the Dubai Mall.

When I entered the Dubai Mall, it certainly felt initially like walking into any of the many shopping malls I’ve visited around the world. But it didn’t take long to realize that it was in fact a giant building filled with art and activities to create wonder, and you never knew what surprise would be around the next turn.

The word ‘mall’ has many connotations for me – and let’s be real, most of them involve shopping!

Yet somehow other than buying food and paying for activities, neither of us managed to make any purchases in our nearly 10 hours at the mall.

Basically, the Dubai Mall is what you would get if you had a team of very creative people design a space that would make you keep wandering for hours upon hours and never want to leave.

A few of my top ‘Things to See and Do’ listed below were on my radar and others were surprises along the way. Or tips from readers after my first Facebook post after arriving at the mall – thanks!

Here are the things you won’t want to miss:

Things to See and Do

Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo

Yes, there is one of the world’s largest Aquarium’s located *inside* of the Dubai Mall.

Even if you’re not planning to go inside (we didn’t), there is a giant observation tank spanning several levels of the mall, open for anyone to see. It is listed on mall signs, and you’ll also notice if you walk nearby by the huge crowds watching the marine life inside.

The Aquarium has a ton to offer, including the ability to do a Shark Dive or Cage Snorkel inside the tank – check out the section of the above link on ‘Aquatic Experiences.’

Waterfall

Sure, you say, you’ve seen waterfalls before. Out in nature, and possibly even inside of other shopping malls.

But this waterfall is massive, and probably has something you haven’t seen before – human figures diving inside the water. The combination of natural features and crafted art makes for an interesting effect as you stare up the full four stories of this creation.

Dinosaur Skeleton: “Dubai Dino”

When my Dubai blogger friend Millie, the Very Hungry Explorer, inquired, “Have you visited the dinosaur yet?” I honestly didn’t know what to think. But it turns out there is an actual dinosaur skeleton just hanging out in full view in the Grand Atrium for anyone to visit.

And of course, since it’s the Dubai Mall, it is lit up in a deep bluish-purple instead of just being simply displayed. From the girl who walked around in 3^rd grade telling people that I wanted to be a paleontologist, seeing a dinosaur skeleton someplace unexpected had me geeking out – thanks, Millie!

Dubai Ice Rink

Yes, Dubai is in the Middle East where temperatures range from hot to hotter. But this is the inside of a shopping mall, so anything is possible.

The ice skating rink has sessions practically all day, so if you’re interested in taking a spin on the ice to cool off from the sweltering heat outside. One of the many things you’ll find at the Dubai Mall that other malls wouldn’t even dream of.

Authentic Emirati Cuisine at Milas Restaurant

In general, finding local food is much harder than you might imagine in Dubai. Outside workers outnumber locals by a margin of about 8 to 1, so there are far more south Asians for example than there are Emiratis.

And with the vast ethnic offerings of the Food Court, you feel like you have every option under the sun besides Emirati cuisine.

Although this restaurant can be a bit difficult to find, if you’re by the ice rink, head through the passageway with all of the blue jeans for sale. You’ll arrive at the Village Atrium section of the mall with colorful umbrellas displayed overhead and some traditional Emirati hospitality and delicious food at Milas.
Observation Deck “At the Top” of the Burj Khalifa

The Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world – and it’s located at the Dubai Mall!

The Observation Decks are popular, but worth it for the view of the city. For everything you need to know about visiting, read my comprehensive blog post with Tips and What to Expect Going Up the Burj Khalifa.
Light Show on Burj Khalifa

I didn’t know this until I was on the Observation Deck in the early evening, and lights along the outside of the Burj Khalifa started flashing and moving.

Of course, you can’t really appreciate the designs unless you’re outside the building looking on, but the light show is colorful and mesmerizing as it flashes between the different patterns.

It runs starting at 6:45pm at set intervals around the Dubai Fountain Show (see the next item!).

Dubai Fountain Show

Different from the light display on the Burj Khalifa itself, the Dubai Fountain Show is its own spectacle of water fountains shooting into the air and synced with lights and music. It runs twice in the early afternoon, and then every half-hour from 6:00 until 11:00 pm.

It’s incredibly well done, and this is after I’ve seen similarly choreographed shows from Hong Kong to Singapore to Plovdiv, Bulgaria. Click the link above for the full schedule of when to catch it.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Leading up to the half hour, people crowd the edges of the fountain to get a good viewing spot. Go well before the show starts so you can find somewhere you can see – I recommend the bridge, where you’re a bit elevated above the crowd.

Souk Al Bahar

Housed in a separate building from the Dubai Mall, the Souk Al Bahar is located on the other side of the Dubai Fountain.

The interior is stunning, in a traditional Arabic style. It is filled with restaurants, cafes, and all varieties of shops selling anything from spices and fresh dates to clothing and jewelry.

Even if you’re not planning to buy anything, it’s worth walking inside before or after the Dubai Fountain Show (see above).

Adventure Experiences

Who knows how many miles or kilometers we walked exploring all the different areas of the Dubai Mall, but after our late dinner and watching all the nighttime entertainment, we headed back to our hotel in anticipation of an early wake-up the following morning.

But with more time (or different priorities), there are plenty of adventures to be had around the Dubai Mall:

Sega Republic: This indoor theme park and gaming area includes everything from an indoor roller coaster to virtual reality simulations to traditional arcade games. You can see the Dubai Mall listing with a map of how to find it or just follow the signs inside the mall.
Ferrari F1 Race Simulator: At the Ferrari store of course, there are multiple simulators that let you choose between several different racetracks to test out your abilities as a race car driver.
Emirates A380 Flight Simulator: The Airbus A380 is the world’s largest passenger aircraft, and you can try flying one into 12 of the busiest airports in this simulation. You earn points based on your skill and can see how you stack up to other wannabe pilots. Find it at the Emirates store here, not far from Milas Restaurant!

Practical Tips for Visiting

The Dubai Mall is easily metro accessible via the Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall stop on the red line. Conveniently, the Airport is also on the metro’s red line, if you’re planning to visit on a layover in Dubai. You can find a user-friendly Dubai metro map here.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to hold on to your metro ticket. You’ll need it to exit.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The metro station at the Dubai Mall can be quite busy, so buy tickets for both directions when you go.

It’s also important to note that the pathway from the metro to the mall takes a bit of time to walk through, and then of course the Dubai Mall is so enormous that you’ll be doing a lot of walking to get around. And like us, you could easily spend 10 hours at the mall – and that’s without any shopping!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Allow plenty of extra time, especially if you have a timed ticket for a specific attraction. This goes both for getting between the Dubai Mall and the metro station, and also within the mall itself.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Wear comfortable shoes. No matter how much walking you expect to be doing, you’ll be doing more thank you think!

One of the other reasons you’ll enter the Dubai Mall and have no reason to leave: Free WiFi.

Given that the Dubai Mall receives nearly 100 million visitors a year (!!), it’s impressive that there is free and typically fast WiFi available for all of the mall visitors.

Although I didn’t manage to do any shopping at the Dubai Mall, it is the usual purpose of having all those stores in one place.

There are plenty of luxury brands represented, and it even may be cheaper for you to buy items in Dubai. This of course depends on where you’re coming from and what currency you’re using. Certainly the Dubai Mall has unparalleled options all under the same roof.

The same goes for eating, from restaurants and snack vendors around the mall to the massive food court with ample seating. We stopped at the food court ourselves for a mid-afternoon snack to fuel the exploration.

But even if you’re like me and aren’t that into clothes shopping or malls typically, you’ll still have plenty to keep you entertained and staring in wonder as you explore all the things the Dubai Mall has to offer.

Have you been to the Dubai Mall? What was the attraction you enjoyed most? Any other things you’d recommend that I missed?

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Cefalù: Perfect Day Trip from Palermo, Sicily

June 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

Palermo, Sicily makes for a great weekend trip, and there are also great spots around the city that you can easily fit into your trip (like Cefalù) especially if you make your visit a long weekend.

I’m so glad that my friend Isabel and I planned for an extra day, which let us enjoy one of my favorite formats for 3-day weekend trips – a city day on each end with the middle day to spend outdoors or doing something active.

Visiting Cefalù involved an active morning followed by a relaxing afternoon swimming and lounging on the beach – and we were still able to be back to Palermo easily in time for dinner. And the hiking, the beach, and the sights in town and in the hills above Cefalù were all quite memorable.

Here’s what we loved doing on this day trip from Palermo:

Things to Do

Around Town

Cefalù Cathedral

The building itself is distinctive, and it looks like a cross between a fortress and a church, with some very unusual architecture. Once you go inside, the interior is like a traditional church, with some beautiful artwork.

A visit doesn’t take long, so it’s worth stopping in even if you only have a few minutes.

Beach

After hiking up and down a mountain on a hot day, there’s nothing I like to do more than head to the beach and take a dip.

Cefalù’s beach is easily accessible from the center, and not far from where the hike lets you off in town. And since Sicily is further south than other parts of Italy, it was pleasant swimming weather and a refreshing water temperature already in mid-late June when I visited.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is a fair bit of beachfront, so walk a bit if needed to find a good spot. There are also many areas with lounge chairs that you can rent, so find one with spots available.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re lucky like we were, people will be walking up and down the beach offering massages at discount prices. Especially if you’ve been hiking, it’s a great way to relax tired muscles.

Shopping

Cefalù is enough of a tourist destination in summer that there are many shops lining its medieval cobblestone streets.

All sorts of Sicilian specialties are available, from the traditional blue and yellow tiles to culinary specialties like pistachio pesto and local wine. It’s a great spot to pick up some souvenirs.

Off the Beaten Path

Hike to La Rocca & Temple of Diana

Besides the beach, this hike above town was the main reason we visited. It is steep enough to have beautiful views at the top, but overall it was not too strenuous, taking around a half hour to reach the top.

Once you ascend, there are spread out ruins and sweeping views of the coast to appreciate as you linger as long as you like.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Non Solo Pane

This is a great spot to pick up bites to go before (or after) your hike, as it has a lot of portable food and is located near the bottom of the stairs that take you to and from the first section of hiking.

I grabbed some of Sicily’s most portable food – arrancini – stuffed rice balls with different fillings, which are then coated in bread crumbs and fried. There is a reason this dish is a local one!

Ristorante Helios

There are savory food options as well, but I can only vouch for the pastries, which were a delicious snack. And let’s be real, the rest was breakfast the next morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Get at least one item with pistachios, which are grown locally in Sicily. You can taste the freshness and flavor of the nut so well.

Obviously with the morning hike and food on-the-go I didn’t end up having any sit-down meals, but there are quite a lot of highly-rated restaurants around town, especially for seafood.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re looking for an Italian seal of approval, I find Google reviews to be more accurate for places in Italy since locals are more likely to review a restaurant there than on one of the other review websites.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Come by train

Trains run very frequently from Palermo and along the coast in between, and it only takes a little less than an hour to arrive. Unless you’re already renting a car for a road trip around Sicily, the train is the most convenient way to get to Cefalù, and the ride from Palermo is quite scenic.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Check the schedule ahead of time for your return trip to Palermo, so you have a sense of what your options are.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s not unusual for trains to run late in Italy, so leave a bit of extra time if there’s a specific time you need to be back in Palermo.

Avoid August (if you can)

August is peak travel time across Europe, and you’ll have a far more crowded experience if you visit then.

I had a great visit to Palermo and Cefalù in late June – it was warm enough to swim and shops and restaurants were open, but it wasn’t super busy with tourists yet.

Are there any sights around Cefalù that I missed? What other trips from Palermo or around Sicily would you recommend?

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Top 9 Things to do in the Le Marche region of Italy

May 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 15 comments

East of Tuscany on the Adriatic coast is one of Italy’s lesser-known regions, Le Marche, where you can avoid the tourist hordes and enjoy some pretty incredible Italian experiences and cuisine.

I’ve visited many times, for relaxing long weekends and outdoor adventure, for wine tasting and relaxing on the beach, for hiking and exploring walled cities. The region of Le Marche is probably a destination where you’ll want to rent a car (and you can check out my Best Tips for European Road Trips), but you’ll be so glad to have the flexibility to explore off the main train line along the coast.

You may never have heard of Le Marche before – and travel guidebooks don’t help much – so I’ve compiled a list of the top things to do while you’re there. And once you’ve mapped out the attractions you’ll want to visit, I recommend finding a nearby guesthouse to stay, where you can chat with the owner for some insider information on the area and have an even better experience.

Top Things to Do

Relax on the Beach

Le Marche is a coastal region, with its eastern border along the Adriatic Sea, so there is no shortage of beaches for swimming, suntanning, and relaxing.

If you’ve been to Croatia you know that Adriatic beaches tend to have pebbles instead of sand, and Le Marche is the same for the most part. Which is why Senigallia is a popular beach destination, as one of the only sandy beaches in the region.

The other main attraction in terms of Le Marche beaches is the Conero Riviera, south of the regional capital of Ancona, with some absolutely stunning coastline.

Several of the beaches can be accessed on foot or at least closely approached in a car. One exception is the lovely Due Sorelle (two sisters) beach, only accessible by boat from Numara, and usually a less crowded spot to enjoy the sea.

Eat: Savor Local Specialties.

I’m no expert on Marchegiana cuisine, and like all over Italy it varies from town to town, but Marche like other parts of Italy is known for its regional food specialties.

Probably the most well-known across Italy are the beloved olive ascolane, which are olives stuffed with a ground pork mixture, then breaded and fried.

Less likely to find in other parts of Italy are some of the primi, or first courses. Vincisgrassi is a local variation on lasagna, usually baked with chicken livers, and you’ll often seen passatelli pasta featured on menus, made by passing a breadcrumb dough through a shaper until it emerges in the shape of spaghetti.

Various sausages and game dishes are also common, as is brodetto, a fish stew made traditionally with 13 types of fish and seafood, to represent the number of people at the Last Supper. Whatever corner of Le Marche you find yourself in, one thing is guaranteed – you’ll eat well!

Caves & Undergrounds

Basically, there are lots of caves and undergrounds all over Le Marche. As long as you’re not scared of enclosed spaces, there are some great spots to check out:

Frasassi Caves. The largest cave system in Europe, these are a must-visit spot if you’re in Le Marche! The claim to fame here is that the initial chamber of the Frasassi Caves is so large that the Duomo di Milano, Milan’s Cathedral, could fit completely inside. There is a long, meandering path you’ll follow if you take basic tour (guides are mandatory for a visit) or if like me, you’re a bit more adventurous, there are 2 spelunking tours through these natural caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Although no pictures allowed =(I love going behind the scenes, so signed up for one of the “Speleo-Adventure” tours, and had a blast. You’ll change into coveralls and tall rubber boots, because you’ll get quite muddy along the way. And do ask ahead of time about language. My tour was in Italian (and fortunately my Italian is quite good), but if you don’t speak the language, be sure there’s someone who can relay safety instructions to you in English before you book.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While you’re there, it’s a short car ride or a reasonable stroll from the entrance to the Frassasi caves to the parking lot where a leisurely path starts up the mountain and brings you to the Temple of Valadier, a church inside of a cave!

Camerano. Not nearly to the scale of Frasassi, and a bit different since this cave system is man-made, there is an excellent tour available in English that will take you through the passageways. At different points in time there were spaces used for religious worship, wine-making, and as a shelter during wartime. An incredibly interesting spot to check out if you’re nearby.

Wine Tasting

This is Italy, so of course there are incredible wines to sample. They are made from grapes local to the region, and meant to pair well with the local cuisine. This is just how Italy rolls.

The wines you’re most likely to encounter on a Le Marche menu are the Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno – two basic, local reds – and the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a mineral-rich white wine meant to pair well with local fish and seafood dishes.

Antica Cantina Sant'Amico in Morra d'Alba — Antica Cantina Sant’Amico in Morra d’Alba

An absolute favorite though is the relatively unknown appellation of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, A red wine made from lacrima grapes in (yep, you guessed it) the town of Morro d’Alba, this usually young red is very particular in taste, so you’ll probably love it or hate it. It is fruity and aromatic, while fairly dry.

The wine can vary greatly from year to year, so enjoy a tasting and then decide what to buy if you visit a winery. Otherwise, you’ll definitely see it on restaurant wine lists around the region.

Explore Walled Cities

A function of the rolling hills of Le Marche, the region is dotted with walled cities who built the structures as a means of defense. Today they are picturesque spots to visit, usually with an Old Town of centuries-old buildings and cobblestone streets inside.

My favorites:

Urbino. Urbino is definitely the largest walled city on this list, with the most to see inside. It is the birthplace of renowned artist (and Ninja Turtle) Raphael, and has quite a few museums and a Cathedral inside. It is well-lit in the evening, and has many winding cobblestone streets and various lookout points to see the surrounding countryside.
Gradara. Much smaller than Urbino, Gradadara is known for its castle, which you can explore along with strolling on the city walls. Supposedly packed in summer, my friend and I had a pretty solitary visit in September, enjoying the beautiful views of the countryside and the views inside this hilly town.
Corinaldo. Very teeny, Corinaldo packs in all you need from one of Le Marche’s walled cities. It has cobblestone streets, great views of the surrounding area, and delicious food. It also has 2 quirky claims to fame – a polenta well that according to legend fed the city during a siege & also a house with just a facade, built by a heavy-drinking father to send pictures to his son overseas that the money being sent home was being put to good use. Now there’s a plaque to mark the spot.
The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

Take a Hike

There are a number of hikes throughout the region, but the main hiking destination in Le Marche is Monti Sibillini National Park. There are several biking and hiking itineraries available, including a vast loop that will take multiple days to complete. If you’re interested in a multi-day trip, there are accommodations available along the way.

Visit the Acqualagna Truffle Festival

The Alba Truffle Festival in Piedmont in northern Italy may be more famous, but Le Marche’s own fall Truffle Festival in Acqualagna has the same renowned white truffles and is definitely less crowded and easier to explore.

There are outdoor stands with various vendors of truffle products and whole white truffles for sale. There is also a large indoor area, selling nearly everything under the sun.

And since it’s the season of truffle, whatever restaurants you visit in the area in the October/November timeframe will have plenty of dishes with white truffle shaved over top.

No Italian event centered around food would be complete without wine as an accompaniment, so the festival also has wineries represented in various booths, and a whole stand just for wine tasting, with bottles from around the region.

Even if you’re not there in fall, there are two Acqualagna black truffle festivals, one in February and the other in August (although I don’t recommend an August visit to Le Marche, see the ‘When to Go’ section below).

READ MORE: How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

Go Skydiving

You probably don’t associate Italy with skydiving, but the region of Le Marche specifically is known for being a great spot for it. It even made #8 on this list of top skydiving sites in the world!

On my first trip to Le Marche, several of the other people in the traveling group went skydiving for the first time in Le Marche and absolutely loved it. Whether it would be your first time doing it, or you have a lot of jumps under your belt, Le Marche is THE PLACE to skydive.

Inhale the Aroma of Sunflowers

Even if you didn’t know that sunflower fields abound in Le Marche before your trip, any road trip in the region at the right time of year will inevitably drive past lovely yellow expanses.

Sunflowers typically bloom in early summer, with the exact dates depending on the weather conditions that year. If you love flowers, or sunflowers in particular, you can see beautiful fields of them all over Le Marche.

When to Go

There are lot of great times during the year to visit Le Marche. What will be best for you of course, all depends on which activities appeal to you most:

Sunflowers are typically in peak bloom in late June through July.
The Acqualagna Truffle Festival typically takes place in late October and early November.
Fall and spring are probably the most comfortable seasons for hiking.
And of course the beach will be most pleasant in summer, and less crowded before and after.

I visited in early July when I saw sunflowers, I did a road trip to walled cities and caves around Le Marche last September, and I went to the Acqualagna truffle festival and nearby towns in early November. All wonderful trips =)

The only thing I would caution against is visiting in August. Pretty much all Italians (as well as other Europeans) take vacation then, so the beaches and attractions are likely to be packed.

And for me, a big part of the appeal of visiting Le Marche is heading to a destination *without* the crowds.

The diversity of activities to do in Le Marche is quite amazing, and even if you’re looking for a relaxed itinerary, there are plenty of places to kick up your heels and enjoy the countryside or the coast. Just like most of my all-time favorite destinations, there are a lot of varied activities available and beautiful scenery along the way.

Have you been to Le Marche? Any things to do that I missed and should add? What activities are most likely to draw you to visit a new place?

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Milan to Lake Como Day Trip: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy

May 30, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

When I say the word “lake,” what do you imagine? A small, oval-shaped body of water where you could easily row to the other side in a boat? A modest-sized swimming hole for a quick dip as you hike in the woods?

Your imagination has probably conjured up something relatively tiny, but the lakes of northern Italy – including Lake Como – are anything but.

Instead of your typical circular or oval body of water, Lake Como, Italy is like an upside-down letter Y or wishbone shape, and extends north to south nearly 30 miles/50 kilometers!

This was one of the first of many things that made a deep impression on me when I visited, as one of my first Milan day trips.

Even if you can’t find Lake Como on a map of Italy, you’re likely to know a few things about it.

Like the fact that George Clooney lives there. Or that it is a posh weekend and summer destination for residents of Milan, since getting from Milan to Lake Como is so easy.

This means that in addition to being curious and making several trips on my own, Lake Como was also a popular destination for guests visiting me when I lived in Milan, and I’ve been there many times across several years. It’s one of the easiest and best day trips from Milan. And one day in Como is plenty of time to take in the highlights.

One of the easiest spots to land, and with plenty to see, is the town of Como, Italy at one of the southern tips of this wishbone-shaped lake. With great options for what to do in Lake Como for a day.

The lake itself is huge, which you’ll discover standing on its shores and staring out toward the horizon where the lake continues even past where you can see.

You could easily spend a week exploring its shores, but for most visitors, you’ll probably explore Lake Como in one day.’

Getting from Milan to Lake Como

There are a lot of transportation options for a Milan to Lake Como day trip.

I most often drove to get there, but that was only because I was already living in Milan with a car!

To experience Lake Como in a day, I’ve listed a few driving options, although for most visitors the easiest way to visit will be by train, which is also included below.

From Malpensa Airport (MXP) by Car

Most of my visitors when I lived in Milan, Italy were from the US.

Como is a convenient spot to visit straight from the main international airport, known as Malpensa or code MXP, since it is already partway from the city to Lake Como.

So to fight off jet lag and see something spectacular, one day in Lake Como is a great way to start a trip, especially for flights that land early in the morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! On your first day in a new location, spend a lot of time outside and walking, to help adjust to the new time zone.

However, taxi fares from Malpensa are set prices and quite expensive (around €100!) so unless you are already planning to rent a car at the airport or have a friend picking you up by car, I recommend taking the Malpensa Express train for a much more affordable price into the city.

Then you can either drive or take the train from the city another day for a Lake Como day trip.

From Milan by Car

If you’re planning to rent a car in the city to head somewhere else – like the overnight I did once to go hiking in Lugano, Switzerland – then driving to Lake Como for one day is a great idea.

It is a pretty straightforward path on the highway, and then there are plenty of parking garages when you enter town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Once you are getting close to the town of Como, follow the signs that say Como with a picture of a bulls-eye. The bulls-eye indicates that you are headed to the centro, or center of town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Signage is equally good for locating a parking garage. Look for signs with a blue square with a white letter P inside for parcheggio, or parking. Usually each lot will indicate how many free spaces are available.

Also check out these tips for taking a road trip in Europe for some other helpful information for your journey by car.

If you do not already have plans for a car rental, it is so easy to arrive by train that even owning a car, that is how I traveled to Como for a day during many trips.

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip by Train

There are 3 main train stations in Milan – Cadorna, Centrale, and Garibaldi.

If you plan to do any day trips from Milan, I recommend staying close to one of them, and I find the neighborhoods by Cadorna and Centrale stations to be the nicest.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving on an international flight to Malpensa Airport, Cadorna and Centrale are also the main stations where you can arrive by the Malpensa Express train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Before boarding any train in Italy, be sure to VALIDATE YOUR TICKET before you board, otherwise you could be subject to a fine. Usually on the train platform will be a brightly colored box with a slot in the top for you to insert your ticket. You can find more Italy travel tips HERE.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, Milano Centrale, Milan’s Central Station, is the easiest itinerary. Usually there are several direct trains an hour that will get you to the Como San Giovanni train station at Lake Como in 35-45 minutes. You can check the schedule and prices on the TrenItalia website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni station will typically cost around €5 for the regional train and €12 for the Eurocity train.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Central Station?

Within a 10-minute walk is the exceptional Milano Dreams Hotel. Even closer is highly-rated 43 Station Hotel. For a pricier and very comfortable stay also very close by, I’ve enjoyed the Hilton Milan.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Central Station.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, if you’re staying on the other side of the city closer to the Milano Cadorna Station, it will likely be easier to get a direct train there (and just as fast as a longer transit to Centrale and then the shorter train ride from there).

Usually there is one direct train an hour that will get you to the Como Nord Lago train station right at Lake Como in around 1 hour, so check your train options in advance. You can check the schedule and prices on the Trenord website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Cadorna to Como Nord Lago station will typically cost around €5.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Cadorna Train Station?

Within a 7-minute walk are the outstanding Atellani Apartments. Slightly further is the La Cordata Accommodation. For a very centrally located and more upscale hotel, check out UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Cadorna Station.

Given the locations of the train stations in both Milan and Como, either train option above is a great, cheap, and quick way to spend the day in Lake Como.

Regardless of which train station you use for your day trip to Como, be sure to keep some key tips in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to book a direct train. In the “Duration” column, it will have a single number showing the time and no changes indicated.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The train station has plenty of machines for you to buy tickets, if you don’t want to commit to a specific train time in advance. There are several languages available, including English.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you purchase using a machine, not every machine will accept credit cards if yours does not have a pin. Have a debit card with a pin available as well for your train ticket purchase, if your credit card does not have a pin number.

Doing a Como Tour

If you’d rather avoid dealing with transportation logistics on your own, there are plenty of Como Day Trip tours you can arrange.

There are a few great Lake Como Day Trip options:

Day Trip to Lake Como and Bellagio, or

Lake Como and Bellagio Day Trip with Boat Cruise, or

Day Trip to Lake Como, Bellagio, and Varenna

For a very different view of the lake, check out this Helicopter Ride for an Aerial View of Lake Como.

There is also this Central Lake Como tour cruises to 3 towns including Bellagio and includes a visit to the gardens at Villa Carlotta.

What to Do in Lake Como for a Day

Here are the main Lake Como 1-day itinerary for your Milan to Lake Como day trip:

Lake Como

Whether you’re arriving by car or train, your drop-off point or parking spot will likely be quite close to the shore of Lake Como. And walking up to the edge of the lake is always the first thing I want to do when I get there!

There are beautiful views along the shore in both directions, and a lovely pathway for a stroll.

Boat Tour

During warm weather months, from about April to October, there are leisure boats lined up along the dock close to the Como Nord (northern) train station in Como.

With a high number of tourists, boats leave quite frequently and very affordable at around 5 Euros per person.

When you arrive at the dock, just ask how soon the next boat is leaving. It is about a 30-minute trip up and back along the adjacent section of lake, and the better boats will point out sites of interest along the way, including spots where famous movies were filmed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Doing a basic boat tour is different from taking the fast or slow ferry to other towns on the lake, so if you want to just do a boat tour, this is just along the shore, not at the official ticket counter (see ‘Off the Beaten Path‘ below for more details on ferries to other towns).

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Cathedral

The main Cathedral of Como, or Duomo, is located right in the center of town and is a stunning example of Gothic architecture.

It is free to enter and a must-visit spot while you’re visiting. Spend as little or as much time as you like.

Porta Torre and Old City Walls

Arriving at Porta Torre, the medieval town entrance dating back nearly 1,000 years, involves walking through winding cobblestone streets away from the lake front.

Not only will you get a glimpse of the oldest parts of Como along the way, you’ll also get a great sense of this town’s lengthy history and long-standing structures.

Oldest House in Como

Speaking of old structures, be sure to stroll by what is supposedly the oldest house in Como, located above a shop at Via Natta, 1. You’ll definitely know it when you see it.

Como Silk Museum

Did you know that an overwhelming percentage of Europe’s silk production comes from Lake Como?

Ever since a Duke around the year 1400 decided to start growing mulberry trees and importing silkworms from Asia, Como has been a hub of silk production, which continues today.

This museum, located a bit beyond the Porta Torre (see above), chronicles silk’s history in the area and the various stages of production.

Shopping

I’m not always a huge shopper, but there are lots of wonderful things to get in town. There are your typical clothing chains, but also cute kitchen stores, shops with local food products, and jewelry makers. And of course, plenty of Como silk!

Off the Beaten Path on a Milan to Lake Como Day Trip

Como-Brunate Funicular

Lake Como is surrounded by hills and mountains, and while it’s definitely possible to hike up the steep incline on foot, most people opt for the funicular, which is like a steep tram.

There are some shops, sights, and restaurants up top, but most people make the trip for the lovely view of Lake Como.

There is a great viewing spot about a 20-minute relatively flat walk to the left when you exit at the Brunate station.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The funicular runs quite frequently, but it’s always a good idea to look at (or even take a picture) or the return schedule to time your return trip to Como.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The front of the lower section of the funicular is a giant window, and that’s where you’ll get the best views as you ascend and descend. Arrive early to be first in line to snag this spot!

Villa Olmo

There are many villas along Lake Como, one more beautiful than the next, and many with extensive landscaped gardens to behold.

The closest one to the town of Como is Villa Olmo, about a 20-minute walk from the center along the west side of the lakeshore (if you’re facing the lake, to the left). The outdoor areas are impressive with beautiful lake views, and the interior is a free museum open daily except Monday.

Ferries

There are many other towns along the lake, and it’s definitely doable to visit and explore one or more others during a single day, depending on how you want to spend your time.

The link above shows the schedule and fares for various destinations along the lake, or you can find it HERE. To purchase a ticket, arrive at the ticket booth on Lake Como around 20 minutes in advance of your departure.

The town of Bellagio is one of the most popular other towns for visiting, although be aware that it is approximately a 2-hour boat ride with the slow ferry and around 45-minutes one-way if you pay the surcharge for the fast ferry. And it will cost around €10-15 each direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you just want to get out on the water a bit and not necessarily see another town, the faster and more economical way is a tourist boat tour, see ‘Around Town‘ section above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If Bellagio is the main town you’d like to visit on Lake Como, it is faster and cheaper to take a train from Milan to the town of Varenna, and then take a ferry across from there, skipping the town of Como entirely.

Looking to stay overnight in Como?

Check out centrally located, affordable B&B La Rondine or B&B Volta. Or for a posh hotel stay with views of Lake Como, Hotel Quarcino.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels in Como.

Where to Eat with One Day in Lake Como

Ristorante La Cucina di Elsa

This family-run restaurant is close to the waterfront, but just far enough away that it is mostly locals who you’ll find as your dining companions. Apparently there is another branch just across the border in Lugano, Switzerland, but I’ve only been to the Como one.

‘Elsa’s Kitchen’ has typical Italian dishes with a lot of fresh seafood, with dishes that are a bit elevated from down-home cooking, so worth lingering over every perfect bite.

Locanda Barbarossa

Set inside a vast stone building, the ambiance is wonderful along with the food.

Pizza is the most popular, and comes in dozens of varieties including several white pizzas, although the northern Italian risotto and meat specialties are equally delicious if you’re not in the mood for pizza.

Either way, it’s a great spot for a lingering lunch.

Gelateria Lariana

No Italian outing would be complete without gelato.

This gelateria is along the waterfront, but somehow seems to be frequented mostly by locals – it was actually a tip from a local that led me here in the first place.

There are a few spots to sit outside with your gelato, so grab your favorite flavors, and enjoy it along with the view.

READ MORE: Best Spots for Gelato in Italy

It won’t even take a single day here to begin to understand why Lake Como is an ideal location for a summer getaway, and how it has become the ‘it’ destination for so many.

I’ve visited lots of lakes across northern Italy, and with the dramatic cliffs and mountains right up to the water’s edge, Lake Como is still my favorite.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

Looking for other Day Trips from Milan? Check out some of my favorites!

Dramatic views from the elevated city of Bergamo

Enjoying adorable Cremona, home of the Stradivarius violin

And while it would be a long day (and I recommend more time in each) it’s also possible to do a Day Trip from Milan to Florence, Venice, and Verona.

Have you been to Como? Any recommended spots that didn’t make my list? And do you have any other questions about how to spend your time on Lake Como? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Things You’d Never Expect on a Trip to Haiti

March 21, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 20 comments

**While Haiti was a lovely destination when I visited in February 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists (as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

Since returning to the US from time living abroad a year ago, I’ve been to quite a few destinations in the Caribbean for vacation. I just didn’t expect Haiti to be one of them.

This was not my first visit to Haiti. Technically, anyway.

I did visit Labadee peninsula on Haiti’s northern coast for a day once, while on a Caribbean cruise with my family. But all I really saw that day was a beautiful beach.

This time I came to Haiti on a work trip over ten days, with about half the time spent in the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the other half to the north outside of the city.

I know Haiti does not top most people’s bucket list destinations, but I wanted to write about my experience anyway. For those of you who may never visit Haiti, it’s a bit of a glimpse into the culture and sights of this vibrant country. Or for the more adventurous readers out there, maybe you’ll consider taking a trip someday.

There’s only one way to know – read on!

Things You’d Never Guess to Expect on a Trip to Haiti

Finding travel information about Haiti was a bit of a challenge, as you might expect, with no Caribbean travel guide I perused even including it. First-hand accounts of people who had visited were few and far between. So other than a couple of friends-of-friends that I connected with, I was a bit of a blank slate going in.

I’m not exactly sure what I expected, but certainly there was plenty that I was surprised by.

Haitians take being presentable very seriously

I know enough French people to know that being oh-so-proper is typically French, I just didn’t realize how many French sensibilities had been internalized in Haiti. In my business meetings, men were always in long-sleeved dress shirts. Even when it was 32 degrees C/90 F outside and we were in rooms without air conditioning. Often there where blazers or suit jackets worn by both men and women. Plus, as you drive around you’ll see no shortage of shoe shining happening on the side of the road.

Speaking French only gets you so far in Haiti

I prepared to speak French. I don’t speak French particularly well, but with my Spanish and Italian language skills I understand a fair amount of both written and spoken French. Outside of business meetings though, everyone speaks Kreyol.

The main mode of transportation is the “tap tap”

I’ve seen collective taxis from the sherut service in Israel to the collectivos you’ll find in Latin American countries. What I’ve never seen before? Trucks that only know to stop when you bang the side of the vehicle – the “tap tap” sound that is also the name of the mode of transport.

People get their cars washed on the side of the road

Driving around and during my limited wanderings on foot during the day, I saw plenty of people getting pop-up carwashes on the side of the road, especially in Port-au-Prince. Usually there were several people offering car washes lined up on the shady side of the street (it is tropical and hot there, after all) and no shortage of people waiting in line for their turn.

Churches are beautiful

Although many of Haiti’s churches sustained damage in the 2010 earthquake, the ones still standing that I visited were absolutely lovely. For a moment it felt like being a tourist in any church anywhere else.

Bougainvillea at every turn

I saw a bit of bougainvillea peeking out over a wall and thought about how lovely it was. After seeing bougainvillea for the 10^th time, I realized just how ever-present this flowering vine is all around Haiti, in bright shades of pink, purple, and orange.

There are so many Dominicans

Okay, sure, so both Haiti and the Dominican Republic share the island of Hispaniola. However I wasn’t expecting to encounter many Dominicans, although I met quite a few and got in a good amount of Spanish conversation during my trip.

Street food vendors have very fresh ingredients

Markets are central to Haitian commerce, as I can attest to after sitting through many a traffic jam driving through a town on market day. Even the vendors walking around with a basket on their head are carting around the food of the day. When I heard about the spicy Haitian peanut butter called mamba, I expected that it would come slathered on some square white bread out of a package and was instead delighted to have incredibly fresh boat-shaped mini loaves of bread, sliced and spread with the mamba to order, and served with a banana for a bit extra.

Armed guards at every hotel and restaurant

I actually didn’t even consciously notice this at first. I used to live in Israel and have been back often to visit, and they take their security pretty seriously there. Israel aside though, it is quite unusual to have armed guards posted at the door everywhere you go.

A parking spot can be anywhere

This is another thing I didn’t even take note of! Reading restaurant reviews (yes, I did, you know how I roll) I picked up on the fact that most people commented either that an establishment had plenty of parking or not enough. On the street, there are few and often no marked parking spots so the Haitians do the one thing I am all-too-familiar with from my time living in Italy – they jump the curb and park half on the sidewalk and half in the street.

The toilet situation was not as bad as I expected

I packed lots of tissue packs for my purse, wet wipes, and hand sanitizer, to be prepared for any bathroom situation that might arise. While I used all of these things at some point, in general I did not have nearly as many issues as I planned for, even at restaurants frequented mostly by locals. In fact, I used far more tissues as toilet paper in Naples, Italy than I ever did in Haiti.

Mountains. Stunningly beautiful mountains.

You may have heard of the book [easyazon_link identifier=”0812980557″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Mountains Beyond Mountains[/easyazon_link] about Dr. Paul Farmer, but that doesn’t even begin to describe how many lush green mountains you’ll encounter in Haiti. Every time you think you’ve reached the end of a range or are too close to the sea, another mountain pops into view.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Feb 23, 2018 at 6:00am PST

Tourist attractions

You know something is a tourist attraction when you’re in a foreign country and the first person who approaches you to give a tour speaks to you in English. This is what happened to me when I arrived at Fort Jacques outside of Port-au-Prince, and it was just like colonial forts I’ve visited elsewhere in the Caribbean. Although I didn’t have time to see it all, there are plenty of similar attractions throughout the country to explore.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bfoh-ApHsT5/

Vibrant art is everywhere

From mosaics to street art to paintings for sale, Haitians are all about their art. You’ll also see sculptures, wood carvings, and designs in metal without even seeking them out. I wish I had more time to explore the art scene during my time, it’s all absolutely lovely.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf0l3unHNuO/

Latin Dance nights

Nope, I’m not confused about which blog post I’m writing, I went to a fabulous Latin Dance night during my time in Port-au-Prince, dancing salsa, bachata, merengue, and copa. The most unusual part – and I’ve gone Latin dancing in many places – was that almost none of the salsa music was Spanish! Instead it was salsa versions of popular tunes across a wide range of genres, from “Love Potion No. 9” to “Redemption Song” to “Wrecking Ball.”

Really nice restaurants

Port-au-Prince has some great dining destinations, and I was fortunate to explore many of them during my stay. I enjoyed delicious escargot at Brasserie Quartier Latin, some of the best goat of my life at La Plantation, and Middle Eastern delights like kibbeh at Magdoos along with a glass of excellent Viognier.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Feb 24, 2018 at 5:55am PST

A modernized airport

I spent an inordinate amount of time at my hotel the night before my departure being sure to print out hard copies of my boarding passes for my flight back to the US. And then I arrived at the airport in the morning to find that it’s a very automated check-in procedure with scanning machines just like in any modern city I’ve visited. With some very serious airport security. Just know that anyone who comes to help you with your luggage or check-in is really there for a tip.

Should You Visit?

As I traveled to Haiti for work, I didn’t intend to write a post about going as a tourist – but you might want to visit as one!

There will be plenty of natural beauty and friendly people to appreciate if you do go.

The travel warnings out there are legitimately scary and fear-inducing – and sadly exist for a reason – so if you do decide to visit Haiti, there are some key guidelines to follow to do it safely.

What You’ll Need

A Trustworthy Driver or Tour. It is not recommended for visitors to transport themselves anywhere. I’m normally the type of traveler who dives into public transport, however even taxis aren’t recommended as they can be part of crime targeting foreigners. All of my transport was either with the driver from work or the hotel shuttle. Find a driver you can trust or go on an organized trip.

→ The only company I’ve seen doing organized tours of Haiti is G Adventures. While I have never traveled with them, other travel bloggers have, and they recommend them as being a responsible tourism provider offering quality trips. You can learn more about their Haiti trips HERE.

→ I didn’t know about this company at the time of my visit, but thanks to a recent Essence magazine article, I found out about the Haitian Nomad, which does many types of day tours around Haiti. Get more information about possible tours HERE.

Mental preparation for airport chaos. This was the biggest thing I was told in advance of flying to Port-au-Prince, and you will need to keep your wits about you in the airport before you even find your trusty driver! There will be lots of people swooping in to help and expecting tips before you even get to the person who will usher you through your trip.

Lots of immunizations and health precautions. Haiti has both malaria and zika, plus has a fair number of communicable diseases you can catch, including from the water and food. You’ll definitely want a whole host of immunizations before you go as well as to be taking many precautions while in country. I was lucky to not have any health issues, although I also came prepared and used my heavy-duty bug spray liberally.

An openness to adventure. Haiti is definitely a destination I’d recommend for the more seasoned traveler, who is flexible and open to the unknown and adventure. For most visitors, the local culture will be quite different from what is typical at home, and having an open mind will be key to enjoying a visit.

Limitations on Your Visit

You can’t drink the water. I also avoided fresh salads that might have been washed in water and drinks with ice, except at higher-end restaurants.

You can’t walk on your own at night. Even if your hotel is a 5-minute stroll by foot. Even if you will walk fast. Even if it’s just around the corner. It’s just not safe.

Walking on your own during the day is fine, but might get uncomfortable. When I was in Port-au-Prince walking around during the day, I was on my own. I was the only white person that I saw on the street and was very obviously and immediately identified as a foreigner. I encountered people begging for money with every step. Someone tried to swindle me for gas money by saying, “Don’t you remember me? I’m the security guard from the restaurant you ate at on Monday.” (He wasn’t.) And there are signs of poverty everywhere you look and of people who are out on the streets all day that you’re probably not accustomed to (like a woman peeing on the sidewalk crouched next to a truck).

There are very long transit times to drive between places. Don’t just look at how close things are on a map of Haiti, and assume you’ll be able to get there quickly. Most “highways” in Haiti only have a single lane in each direction and often questionable road conditions. And that’s even before taking into account the traffic. I encountered traffic at rush hour, traffic on market days, traffic from animals crossing the road, and the worst traffic delay of the trip when there were student protests blocking the road and a 40-minute trip instead took 2 hours.

Benefits of a Trip to Haiti

Natural beauty. The mountains are stunning. My day hiking was one of my favorites from the trip. The beaches are idyllic, with the same clear turquoise water you’ll see across the Caribbean, and far fewer crowds. You could quite happily park yourself at a beach resort for a week and be thrilled.

Historical sights. I got to visit Fort Jacques and Fort Alexandre outside of Port-au-Prince, and only wish that I had more time to explore in other parts of the country. Although I was geographically close to other spots, the driving time did not allow for a visit to the Citadelle or Sans-Souci Palace or Fort des Oliviers, all of which look incredible. Read a recent tourist’s account of visiting Haiti, including these notable sights, HERE.

Amazingly flavorful, spicy food and local specialties. I had delicious dishes in Haiti that I haven’t seen anywhere else in the Caribbean. There was the spicy peanut butter called mamba that would come spread on fresh bread, the dish known as accra made from a grated root vegetable called malanga that’s fried into patties, and the djon djon mushroom from the north that’s used to flavor rice or chicken.

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I even got to savor the juice of local cachiman (different apparently from the custard apple the internet pulls up) that you probably won’t be able to sample anywhere else. I only ordered this because I picked the one thing whose name I didn’t recognize on the juice list, and it turned out to be delicious – like a fabulously light and creamy (almost) coconut milk.

It’s wayyy off-the-beaten-track for tourism. No one I encountered was in Haiti for vacation. Which may be why you want to go!

TIP! Yes, Haiti is a lovely country, but there is also a lot to be wary of in order to stay safe. I would only recommend a visit to Haiti for the seasoned traveler prone to being over-cautious and not taking any unnecessary risks.

Things to See and Do

Barnes Foundation

I honestly had never heard of this spot before planning this trip, but it is one of the most unique art museums I’ve ever visited, along with Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which I also loved. The Barnes Foundation art is displayed just as it was when its patron was alive, in room after room with whimsical designs and interspersed with antique utilitarian objects with artistic beauty.

And the collection is filled with more Renaissance masterpieces than you may have ever seen in one location before. The museum used to be in Philadelphia’s suburbs, a subject of controversy when it was moved, but is now easily accessible on the city’s museum row.

TIP! This is a pricey visit, but not only did I think it was completely worth it, you can also get discounts by becoming a Barnes Foundation member or bundling admission with other Philadelphia attractions with either the Philadelphia Pass or the Philadelphia City Pass.

Elfreth’s Alley

Did you know that Philadelphia is home to the oldest, continuously inhabited residential street in America? Despite its historical roots, and my many previous visits to Philly, I actually learned about this spot from Instagram! I probably would have made it here sooner if Instagram had existed during my previous visits to the city, but was so glad to explore this block of houses this time around.

TIP! Various events happen throughout the year and guided tours are available Friday to Sunday and on Thursdays during summer. Options are listed HERE.

Italian Market

An outdoor market covering many blocks, the stands are also interspersed with brick-and-mortar shops selling Italian goodies. Stop by the Italian Market Visitor Center for a map and some helpful guidance as to which spots to check out and come hungry so you can eat your way through. And pick up some goodies to take home with you.

TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Philadelphia Magic Gardens (see below).

TIP! It was accidental that I stumbled upon the annual Italian Market Festival the one weekend I happened to be in town, but it was filled with vendors and music and all sorts of entertainment, including the absolutely insane Grease Pole Climbing competition:

Magic Gardens

Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens has only been open to the public since 2008, so this was actually my first visit to the city since it opened. Artist Isaiah Zagar had been beautifying this section of the South Street neighborhood since the 1960s, turning an eclectic combination of objects like tiles and glass bottles into a giant outdoor art installation with winding passageways and stairs linking different sections.

It is quite the experience to stroll through it all, this is definitely one of those places you need to see for yourself!

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TIP! There are timed tickets that are sold beginning a month ahead of time. I visited on a Sunday in May and was only able to get tickets for about an hour after I waited in line, so if you are on a tight schedule or it is peak tourist season, I’d recommend buying tickets in advance.

TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Italian Market (see above).

Mural Mile

There are beautiful murals all over Philadelphia as part of this revitalization project. If you go to the website linked above, you can download an easy-to-navigate map showing the location of the different artworks. I did not follow the trail, but if you are strolling the city and keeping your eyes open, you’re likely to spot quite a few of these to appreciate as I did.

Where to Eat and Drink

Coffee

Elixr Coffee Roasters

This coffee spot is very fancy about its beans and blends, and although its only been around since 2010, has racked up national accolades for its coffee roasting, barista skills, and cold brew coffee. The blend I sampled was good although not my favorite, but it was a solid sip to go with the definite hipster vibe at the Elixr Center City location, one of three outposts in the city.

La Colombe

This is a Philadelphia chain that is popping up in several American cities, but with good reason – the coffee here is delicious! There are 5 locations across Philadelphia (I visited the one in Dilworth Plaza) and it served my favorite coffee of my visit. There are great espresso-based coffee drinks that are not too acidic, so just the way I like it.

Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch

Dim Sum & Noodle

Chinese food is a must on any foodie weekend in Philadelphia, and this is one of the few highly-rated spots outside of Chinatown, and very close to the Barnes Foundation (see above), which is how I ended up here. Although the space is basic and it’s located on a strip mall stretch, there were some very delicious bites.

For dim sum, there are plenty of options, and if you’re indecisive like I can be, they also offer a dim sum sampler. And you know they’re serious about their food when the waitress patiently explains which dipping sauce goes with which dim sum item, which appealed to the sensibility I developed living in Italy – that there is one best way that food is intended to be consumed for maximum enjoyment.

TIP! All that said, I’ve enjoyed even better dim sum in Philly’s Chinatown, and would only seek out this spot if you’ll be in the area anyway.

Federal Donuts

This spot has fun flavor combinations iced like your typical donut, but what the staff recommended to me was the freshly fried original style dipped into a choice of 3 toppings: cookies and cream, cinnamon brown sugar, and strawberry lavender. It was so good to have the piping hot, yeasty, freshly fried donut that I would probably order this one again on any return visit. I’ve also heard great things about their wings, but I visited earlier in the morning and they weren’t serving them yet.

TIP! Go at or after 11am to sample their fried chicken wings with your donuts.

Green Eggs Caf é

Benedicts here range from more traditional versions with crab cakes or smoked salmon to a short rib benedict, root vegetable benedict, and chicken-and-waffles benedict option. Even more elaborate are the flavored french toasts like pecan pie, salted caramel banana, or the ever-tempting cookie dough stuffed french toast. This wasn’t blow-my-mind amazing, but the food is very good, and it is worth going for the variety and unusual combinations you’ve probably never seen on another brunch menu anywhere else!

TIP! Expect a wait, although the earlier you go after they open, the faster you’ll get seated.

Dinner

Vernick Food and Drink

The food here is both beautiful and delicious and is such a great value for the haute cuisine quality of the dishes coming out of the kitchen, and was a memorable first meal of our foodie weekend in Philadelphia. The signature Amish chicken (or half-chicken) is fantastic, and was a highlight of the evening – and this is from someone who doesn’t usually order chicken out at a restaurant!

Besides the one big dish, my friend and I just divided some small plates, which were really exceptional bites and beautifully plated. The cocktails were well-balanced and delicious, and there was a very good selection of wines by the glass. I thought it would be an older, stuffier crowd, but it turned out to be a mix that included a lot of young professionals and very friendly, approachable, and helpful wait staff to guide us along the way. They definitely earned their many accolades, including a 2017 James Beard award for the chef.

How to Reserve

Option 1: By phone, 90 days in advance

Option 2: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time

Option 3: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant at any point

→ I made plans less than 60 days in advance, so after not finding good options online, I called and was able to get a Friday night reservation at 7:30pm around 45 days ahead of time.

Zahav

One of the first high-end dining destinations featuring Israeli cuisine, this restaurant was THE REASON for my Philadelphia foodie weekend. Zahav has made it to Eater’s list of the “38 Essential Restaurants in America” for all four years the list has been compiled, which is probably a footnote compared to some of its other accolades. Dishes are available a la carte or with the Taste of Zahav offering small plates, salads, and a large fish or meat or vegetable dish from the coals for $48 per person.

But at just a little more pricewise, what you really want to do while you’re here is enjoy the $56 Chef’s tasting with the Chef Solomonov’s signature pomegranate-glazed lamb shoulder, one of my best bites of recent memory. Even the rice has detailed touches, and it was all so perfect together. You definitely want to eat here on a foodie weekend in Philadelphia – or any trip to the city, really!

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TIP! I recommend snagging a reservation on the earlier side if you can, otherwise trying your luck in person on the day, as the most popular dishes (the lamb shoulder!) will sell out nightly around 7:15pm – or even earlier – since so many people order it.

TIP! I’ve done plenty of wine tasting in Israel, and while Zahav’s wine list boasts excellent Israeli options, I found the Israeli wines to be a bit over-priced and the lesser-known Lebanese Bekaa Valley selections to be much better value for a delicious bottle.

How to Reserve

Option 1: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time

Option 2: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant to likely be added to a wait list

Option 3: Be a walk-in on the evening you’d like to dine.

→ You can put your name down on the walk-in list around 4:30pm, even though the restaurant does not open until 5pm. One option is to stick around and eat right when they open at 5. The other option (which I took advantage of) is to put your name down, go do other things around town, and come back when most of the seats turn over between 7:00-7:30pm. Since it’s just a running wait list all night, be sure to let the host or hostess know your plans and give them another heads up when you return. My friend and I arrived back a few minutes after 7pm and got seats overlooking the open kitchen within 5 minutes.

TIP! Between 4:40 and 7:00pm, I stopped by Elfreth’s Alley (see above) and then Sassasfras Bar (see below). Another nearby option to enjoy yourself while you wait for a later dinner time is the even closer, historical City Tavern that still brews old time beer recipes from the time of Founding Fathers, so if you’re more of a beer fan (or just curious like I will be when I return to Zahav to eat again!) it’s another convenient option.

Dessert

Capogiro Gelato

I visited in summertime, and Capogiro was definitely recommended to me most often in terms of ice cream or gelato places around Philadelphia. Although it was not quite as good as my Favorite Gelato Places in Italy, Capogiro serves a delicious gelato made in the traditional Italian style and was some of the best I’ve had outside of Europe.

TIP! Some flavors were better than others (the pistachio was great!) so I recommend trying a few before deciding what flavor combination to order.

Drinks

The Franklin Bar

The Franklin Mortgage and Investment Company was a front for America’s largest alcohol bootlegging operation during Prohibition, and the space operates these days as a speakeasy. Travel + Leisure even mentions it in their article about Philadelphia being a foodie destination. There’s now an “Upstairs Bar” that is tiki-themed, which is where most people head, although the cocktails there were a bit hit or miss.

The real fun is at the speakeasy downstairs, with pretty interesting drink combinations and the dark, windowless vibe you’d expect from a speakeasy.

TIP! There is one bouncer for both levels, who will point you to the Tiki Bar unless you know to specifically ask about the speakeasy.

TIP! The wait doesn’t tend to be terribly long, and the bouncer can give you a pretty accurate idea of how long to expect.

Sassafras Bar

Close to Zahav (see ‘Dinner’ section above), this was a good place to spend time before dinner, and is a bar worth seeking out in its own right. There are innovative cocktails that change seasonally and the bartenders are very accommodating if you want to order a drink off-menu. It’s a pretty laid back vibe for a bar with great cocktails, with sports showing on the many TVs during my visit.

Where to Stay

AirBNB

You may find that an AirBNB is not as great a deal as you’ll find in other cities, especially if you want to stay near the center of Philadelphia. There are limited spots available, and your options will be priced accordingly. Look early for the best prices, and this can be a way to get more of a local perspective on the city.

If you’ve never tried AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Booking.com

This is my go-to website for finding great deals, and there is often a generous cancellation policy with bookings. You can sort options by ratings or price and get a sense of what is available on your dates. Search Booking.com Now

Have you ever planned a trip for the food? What are your favorite foodie cities? Any other destinations I should check out on my next foodie weekend in Philadelphia?

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How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium: Things to See, Do, and Eat!
How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium: Things to See, Do, and Eat!

August 30, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

One day in Ghent may just leave you wanting more. It is a perfect spot for a day trip though, combining a variety of things to do in close proximity, beautiful viewpoints, and easy access to and from nearby Belgian cities, including Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp.

But even if you only have one day in Ghent, it is worth visiting not only because it is easy to get to – which it is! – but there are some pretty incredible things to see while you’re there.

The city boasts a series of major churches all in a row, which is something rarely seen in any city anywhere. They all are beautiful to explore and have wonderful views of one another, plus there’s also a great spot on a nearby bridge overlooking them all.

Speaking of bridges, Ghent is one of many Belgian cities built on water, and you’ll get beautiful water views on the rivers and canals that wind through town.

Oh yeah, and did I mention there’s a castle?

Luckily all of these sights are quite close to one another, so one day in Ghent is all you’ll need to leisurely stroll between them and enjoy the city.

Below, check out the details on everything you need to know to visit, including my best tips for when you go!

Things to Do during One Day in Ghent

Churches & Nearby Viewpoints

Sint-Baafs (St Bavo) Cathedral

Ghent has several churches but there is only one Cathedral, and beyond its 1,000+ year history and majestic beauty, this one boasts one of the most famous pieces of art in the world, the Ghent Altarpiece. This is the spot around to your left when you enter with its own ticket stand, where you can go and admire the details and images depicted on the different panels. The whole church is lovely though, and the Cathedral has the first of three medieval towers all lined up along this street.

TIP! The Ghent Altarpiece has its own visiting hours, so be sure to check before you go.

TIP! From noon until 1pm the panels of the Altarpiece are closed so you can see the reverse side. If you can, come around either the start or end of the hour so you get the opportunity to see both sides.

TIP! I had a little trouble finding the entrance, but don’t be shy about asking – one of the helpful volunteers pointed me toward the underground area with the oldest sections of the church.

Belfry Tower

The tallest belfry in Belgium and one of a group of belfries with the UNESCO World Heritage designation in the region (it has been around since the 1300s after all), this is the second of the medieval towers all in a row. And it’s made to be climbed! Take your time reaching the top and enjoy the views of the surrounding churches and city.

TIP! Be mindful of when the bell is rung so you do not end up right next to the deafening sound.

Ghent, Belgium is famous for having multiple churches all lined up. Which means that as a tourist, it is easy to visit them one right after another. This view was from the Belfry after I had visited St Bavo's Cathedral & before visiting St Nicholas, which is the church you see here. This is actually the rear of the church (dating from the 1200s!) but I loved this view best since it captured the Gothic architecture & the lovely green space. What views catch your eye when you explore?

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St Nicholas Church

Honestly, I found St Nicholas Church to be more impressive from the outside than the inside, but it is worth taking a few minutes to stroll inside and spy the natural light streaming in through the unusually placed tower, which is the final medieval tower of three.

St Michael’s Bridge

Depending on which way you visit the churches and Belfry, this Bridge will either be first or last. Regardless of when you reach it, pause for a bit to take in the sweeping view of it all, with the three towers all lined up.

St Michael’s Church

I was honestly a bit churched-out after visiting the other spots, and only got a chance to appreciate it from the outside. The church is adjacent to the bridge and is also notable for the city, with a lot of famous artwork inside.

More Things to See and Do Around Town

Canals and Waterways

Water views always get me, and there are plenty as you stroll along the canals and waterways of Ghent. If the weather is nice, the stroll from the train station is about a half hour and mostly goes along the water, with public sculptures and plenty of views along the way.

TIP! There are see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

Citadelpark

After a day of sightseeing, there’s nothing like taking some time to sit and enjoy nature, and this park is quite a large green space, with plenty of spots to stroll or sit and read. I enjoyed spending some time here before I had to catch my train back to Antwerp, where I was staying.

Design Museum Gent

Don’t worry, this spot is still in town, Gent is just one of the alternate spellings you’ll see for the city. The Design Museum would have been a great spot to check out, but unfortunately I visited on a Wednesday, when they’re closed. If you get the CityCard Gent (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s already included, so would be worth popping in even if it’s just for a short while.

Ghent Marriott Hotel

Not only are you likely to pass this spot anyway, if you look closely you’ll see the double swan symbol on its facade, betraying this hotel’s past as a 16^th century brothel. Pretty random, I thought. Want to get to know it more intimately? Check out the ‘Where to Stay’ section below!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmyS2fWHFfq/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Graffiti Street

Just like it sounds, this “street” is actually an alleyway where the authorities turn a blind eye to the ever-changing graffiti that covers the walls and objects in every direction. It’s a fun place to stroll even though it is a pretty small.

TIP! If you’re looking for more street art around Ghent, there is a comprehensive map HERE.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm0xaPTnVLB/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Gravensteen Castle

There’s just something that always gets me when there is a castle right in the middle of a city. This one took me about an hour to stroll through the numbered stops tracing the castles history. Plus, there are great city views in all directions from its rooftop.

‘t Galgenhuisje

This is a bar and also listed in the section below, however even if you’re not planning on sticking around and ordering a drink, it is worth strolling past just to see this spot. The terrace has a fair bit of seating, but the close quarters inside, including an extra-tiny upper level, make it Ghent’s smallest bar.

Where to Eat and Drink – Best Bites & Sips

Take Five Espresso

I arrived in Ghent first thing in the morning to maximize my day trip to the city, so I definitely was ready for some coffee when my train arrived. This spot is just a little ways away from the main sights, but worth seeking out because they offer some delicious coffees and pastries to jump start or day or as a snack along the way.

Bodo Restaurant

Even though the website is entirely in Dutch, English menus were available when I had a delicious meal with a view of nearby Gravesteen Castle (see above). You can even see the castle from the restroom there! The food is on the more expensive side, which makes sense given the location, but there are specials offered at a discount at lunch and everything was absolutely delicious.

It actually wasn’t my top choice although it turned out to be a great meal, but many other restaurants in that area only opened for dinner, or were specifically closed for lunch on Wednesdays. Other nearby options for local cuisine include De Gekroonde Hoofden and M é m é Gusta.

‘t Galgenhuisje

Belgium is known for it’s beer, and there’s no better spot to sit and enjoy one than indoors at what is by far the smallest bar in Ghent. There were several seats available when I went mid-afternoon on a weekday, but I imagine it gets more packed at peak times. And c’mon, this is Belgium, of course the beer was delicious.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you visit Ghent as a Day Trip, definitely do some advance planning so you can make the most of your time. Take a train on the earlier side if you can, to maximize your day, including how many hours you’ll be in town when the main attractions are open.

TIP! There is a great CityCard Gent that will get you in pretty much everywhere you’d like to go, and includes free public transportation around town.

TIP! Assuming you’re arriving by train – as most tourists do – consider buying the pass and having free public transit vs. the additional time walking from the train station to the city center (and back) or the cost of paying for transit separately.

TIP! The CityCard also includes access to hop on – hop off water tram if you visit on a weekend.

TIP! On Wednesday (which was the day I visited) several attractions were closed and some restaurants that normally serve lunch were closed for Wednesday lunch, so keep that in mind if you have the flexibility of which day to go.

READ MORE: 9 Top Belgium Travel Tips: What to Know Before You Go!

TIP! Even aside from Wednesday closures, there are a lot more restaurant options for dinner, especially for those serving local cuisine. So even if you’re visiting Ghent on a day trip, consider staying through dinner to enjoy another meal, just be sure to check your return train options in advance.

TIP! Watch out for bicycles!

Although I went to Ghent as a day trip, it is such a beautiful town and would be even more relaxing spread across several days.

Where to Stay

Ghent is great as a day trip from several other Belgian cities, but it would also make for a great weekend trip – and I have several friends who have enjoyed doing exactly that!

If you do stay over, here are some great accommodation options:

This spot is a bit of a splurge, with rooms located in the old post office and adorned with antique furniture in elegant surroundings.

AirBNB

Nearly all AirBNB properties will have a kitchen available so you can feel more at home and try your hand at cooking local ingredients or stick to a tight budget by not eating out. And it can often be one of the cheapest accommodation options in a city.

If you’ve never booked at an AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Centrally located by the majority of the tourist attractions, it is a short walk from this 18^th century townhouse to the sights you’ll want to see during your stay.

Right on the water in the cobblestone older section of Ghent, this is also your opportunity to stay at a former brothel from centuries before (see ‘More Things to See and Do Around Town’ section above).

TIP! You may be able to earn or use Marriott points if you are a frequent traveler with them or even through some airline frequent flier programs.

Ghent has been one of my favorite Belgian cities to visit. It is less crowded than some of the other large cities, making it far more pleasant to stroll around town, especially during the day when you’ll see visitors from cruise ships or on airplane layovers at their peak in other cities. And it is large enough to have notable artwork and historical sights to keep every type of traveler entertained on a visit.

And if you live in Europe and Ghent is local for you, definitely stay for a full weekend of exploring!

What do you look for in a great day trip destination? Any sights in Ghent that I missed? What other day trips from Brussels or Antwerp or Bruges would you recommend? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia
How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

September 13, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Charlottesville may be a college town, but it is much more than a destination for the University of Virginia.

There are several US presidential estates in the area, most famously Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate, but not only. Charlottesville is nestled in some of the greenest areas of Virginia, offering many opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. And the reason I keep coming back again and again? All of the delicious food and wine all nestled into a small, beautiful area.

It is definitely useful to have a car for a weekend in Charlottesville, because many of the sights you’ll want to see will be out of town. Also, if you’re like me and planning to do a bunch of wine tasting (and purchasing), it is handy to have the trunk of a car to transport it all. And of course, road tripping gives you the ultimate flexibility of how to spend your day.

Read on for all my top recommendations on ‘Things to Do’ and ‘Best Bites & Sips’ for when you visit.

Things To Do

Monticello

Image: Wikimedia Commons

Former presidential estate of Thomas Jefferson, this is probably the most well-known landmark in the area and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tours are required, but you can get a ticket to do this at your own pace, or one that focuses on a specific aspect of the estate, like the lives of slaves on the plantation or Jefferson’s gardening interest and research. In the years since my last trip there, Monticello tourism has exploded, especially in summertime. Definitely try to time your visit for spring or fall, and plan to get an early start to beat the crowds.

TIP! You can get tickets online in advance at a discount, and this will save you waiting in line when you arrive. These are available until midnight the day before your visit.

TIP! There are quite a few quite easy walking trails across the property, so leave additional time if you’d like to explore more on foot beyond the estate and its buildings. A trail map is here.

Highland

Although James Monroe’s Highland Estate was (deliberately) close to Monticello, it attracts far fewer visitors. Certainly it is a smaller estate, but it also limited since the original house burned down at one point. The up side for visitors to the area is that even at the peak of summer travel when other spots are quite busy, you can still stroll in and enjoy the relaxing and quite informative tour of the grounds. A lot is still being discovered on the property, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth another look on your next Charlottesville trip.

TIP! Highland is so close to Monticello that it is quite easy to visit both together in a single morning or afternoon.

Explore Nature

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There are a ton of nearby green spaces to explore, most famously Shenandoah National Park and its scenic Skyline Drive. There are also a lot of nearby hikes that you can research through the national park website. There are also trails on the Monticello Estate, see more in the above TIP!

Historic Downtown Mall

This pedestrian area is the social center of Charlottesville and has a great variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants to enjoy over the course of an afternoon or evening (see ‘Best Bites & Sips’ below). Envisioned as an ‘urban park’ there are a ton of outdoor events scheduled here, especially in summer. Plus, there is an ongoing schedule of concerts and festivals at the adjacent Sprint Pavilion.

University of Virginia (UVA) Campus

Even if you’re not a prospective student or the family of one, you might want to explore the campus of the University of Virginia. It was founded by Thomas Jefferson in the early 1800s and is the only college campus in America that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Explore the campus on your own, or join UVA University Guide Service for one of the historical tours that take place most days at 10am, 11am, and 2pm. There are also tours about the ‘History of Women’ and ‘History of African Americans’ at the University by request.

Alcohol Alley

Nearby Route 151 is not the only place to find great wineries, breweries, and cideries in the Charlottesville area, but it sure has a lot of them – hence how it got nicknamed by locals. Certainly even if you do no research and have no plan for tasting the local libations, you can explore along this road and follow the excellent signage to pop into a few random spots. Silverback Distillery below was an impulse stop along this stretch of road, and there is lots more to explore.

Monticello Wine Trail

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Honestly, the wineries (and the delicious food – see below) are the main reason I keep recommending Charlottesville as a great weekend getaway. You visit one or two of the 30+ local wineries over the course of the weekend or can set an ambitious schedule – like I *might* have done – hitting up 4-5 wineries in a day. It’s definitely possible to do that without feeling rushed, but of course it all depends on how early you start 😉

TIP! Most local wineries are open from 10 or 11am until 5 or 6pm.

My top 2 picks are DelFosse Vineyards & Winery and King Family Vineyards, but for more on the best local wineries – including which ones have the best lunch options and picnic grounds – head to my post all about Charlottesville Wineries.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

Silverback Distillery

This was an impulse stop on a day of hitting up multiple wineries and a great find. Although the Distillery is only a few years old, it offers rye and honey rye, plus boasts several award winning alcohols including a very uniquely aromatic gin that I just loved. They also craft some pretty creative cocktails on the weekend, and I might have been just a little mesmerized by them setting a chunk of bark on fire to infuse their smoky Old Fashioned.

Best Bites & Sips

I have not had a bad meal in Charlottesville. There is a definite foodie culture in this university town and many outstanding options to choose from, from low-key dishes done well to high-end experimental cuisine. I certainly have not sampled them all (yet!) but I have done quite a bit of research into the spots where I did land on my trips, and have only included the spots of my most outstanding meals here.

A lot of the best spots are clustered in the downtown pedestrian area that extends for many blocks, and I’d definitely recommend staying walking distance from this part of town. There are several coffee and breakfast places to hit up in the morning, and dozens of exceptional restaurants to explore each evening.

Breakfast

Bluegrass Grill & Bakery

This place has a bit of something for everyone, kind of like a diner with more flavor combinations for each dish. And they might be just a wee bit obsessed with bacon, based on all of the signs and puns scattered around. No reservations, so be prepared for a wait, especially if you’re in a larger party.

TIP! It’s usually easier to snag a seat at one of the bar stools, which lets you leapfrog the list if you see a spot open up. I was seated in about 2 minutes on a crowded Sunday this way, and got the added entertainment of being able to see into the kitchen.

TIP! There are lots of vegetarian and vegan options here, in all sorts of delectable combinations.

Bodo’s Bagels

First off, let me say that I am a native New Yorker. Saturday memories of my childhood are filled with the aroma of steaming bagels piled high in a paper bag that my dad would go out and get fresh early in the morning. Any time I’ve lived outside of the New York City metro area, I usually transport bagels by the dozen to freeze and defrost one at a time for eating, because I’ve found that frozen and reheated NY bagels are still usually better than what I can find locally.

Bodo’s serves up a very respectable and delicious bagel, and it’s definitely worth seeking out on your visit, especially if you don’t have access to great bagels back at home. You’ll find each location packed with locals when you go!

Dinner

Brasserie Saison

It’s French cuisine with a twist, and easily accessible right on the downtown pedestrian mall. While I wish that the steak frites had been more traditional, their daily specials that you see were out of this world and there was a comprehensive wine and beer (and cocktail) list to accompany all these delicious bites. An outstanding spot – the only thing missing is to have some bread at the table to sop up all their amazing sauces!

TIP! The Brasserie is the only place in this section of the list that also serves lunch, if you’re looking for an upscale midday meal.

C&O Restaurant

This restaurant, named after the old Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) train station across the street, may also be a local classic from many years ago, but you’ll get a delightfully modern and local take on food when you dine here. It is a bit upscale, although if you are visiting from a major US city, you may just see the prices as what you’d find at a neighborhood spot back home. The food is so delicious and beautifully presented in a great atmosphere with excellent service, that you’ll blissfully enjoy your time dining here. Added bonus? It’s right off the downtown pedestrian mall.

Ivy Inn

First of all, this is the one spot that is a bit far from the central pedestrian area I keep talking about, close to the UVA campus. But trust me, it’s worth the trek. The décor is a bit old school, but the innovative takes on dishes and flavor combinations are divine and every bite here was one to savor with just the right balance of textures as well. Plus, everything was beautifully presented, and they added some extra special touches for my birthday as you can see in the photos.

Zocalo

Zocalo is a Latin-inspired restaurant on the downtown pedestrian mall that was relatively new to the scene when I first visited a decade ago, and it is still just as good as it ever was. Their flavors are bold, execution flawless, and it is just really delicious food. Now a Charlottesville mainstay, it is a great spot for exploring all that the local food scene has to offer.

To Drink

Commonwealth Restaurant and Skybar

I can’t speak to their food although as you can tell from the name it is also a proper restaurant. I can vouch for their great beer selection and solid cocktails, though. My favorite part was sitting outside at the Skybar doing some people-watching, since it overlooks the central pedestrian area below.

TIP! Seating in this upstairs section is first-come, first-served.

Some Final Thoughts

Admittedly, my first forays into Charlottesville were to watch college lacrosse games. The University of Virginia (UVA) usually has a solid team, and sometimes I even did day trips from Washington, DC to see them play my alma mater.

The reason I’ve returned to Charlottesville time and again is not just the variety of things to do and great places to eat, but that there is such a high quality and friendliness everywhere you go.

This really is a superlative spot to spend a few days, and after recent events, Charlottesville is definitely in need of some tourist love. Get to it!

Have you been to Charlottesville? Are there any places that didn’t make my list but should have? Share away in the ‘Comments’ – I’ll definitely be back!

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