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Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

I can’t stop talking about where to eat in Stavanger, Norway.

How did a city I had never heard of before become the surprise foodie destination of my last two-week European trip?

By far, it was the city that excited me the most for its food and drink offerings. And as I ate and drank my way through, Stavanger, it delivered.

It’s a pretty simple story, really.

Stavanger was a small town through the 1960s when the oil boom hit, and has since grown into one of Norway’s most sophisticated dining scenes, with no shortage of oil executives and business travelers eating lavish meals on their expense accounts – supporting excellent restaurants all around town.

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Now Stavanger is Norway’s third-largest city and was the first outside of Oslo to have one of its restaurants awarded a Michelin star. Since then, a second restaurant has earned the same accolade.

With Stavanger’s proximity to the Lysefjord’s beautiful scenery and famous hikes, it’s likely to be a pass through point for any outdoor adventuring you do in Norway.

Like many other travelers to this region, I passed through Stavanger both coming and going.

The Stavanger dining scene isn’t just serving up great food and drinks, there is some exciting innovation with local and seasonal ingredients that made it a unique experience, not just your standard “good food.” All with a Norwegian twist, of course.

It’s a city I’d go back to, just to eat.

When you do go, here is where you’ll find your best bites and sips:

Top Coffee Shops

Bøker og Børst

Bøker og Børst Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_094156

Meaning “books and booze” (since it also operates as a bar) this spot is filled with quirky and fun décor that makes you feel instantly cozy the moment you walk in the door.

The staff was also super friendly, and served up my favorite coffee in all of Stavanger – and I sampled a lot more than made this list.

Bøker og Børst Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_094519

Plus, the ultra-moist slice of decadent carrot cake was a great way to treat myself after a cold, rainy morning on the ferry ride back from the Lysefjord.

Kokko Kaffebar

Kokko Kaffebar Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 120180928_105818

This spot is actually just around the corner from the previous coffee shop, but has a very different vibe that is light and airy.

There is beautiful décor across multiple levels and bright, open seating. Kokko Kaffebar also serves up great coffee, with a very smooth flavor. Although I did not enjoy my food quite as much, since I found their baked goods to be a bit dry and not as flavorful as other spot.

Kokko Kaffebar Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180928_103531

Where to Eat in Stavanger

26 North

It is not usually my style to eat at a hotel restaurant – especially one that is a Norwegian chain – but this one is really delicious and it was worth being out of my comfort zone to sample the cuisine here.

26 North offers local “farm & fjord” options daily (an option each from the land and the sea) and what is overall a locally-inspired menu.

26 North Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180927_20004926 North Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180927_202126

There is an appetizer sampler, which is a great way to try traditional Norwegian dishes, especially if you are dining solo like I was.

Even a dish that sounded pretty standard, like the steak I ordered, was both cooked and seasoned incredibly well, and I slowly savored each bite.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Egget

Egget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_191056

I knew from the moment I read about the concept of this restaurant that it was my kind of spot and the experience lived up to my expectation – it was my favorite experience in Stavanger and the best food I ate in all of Norway.

There is no menu, just a talented young chef putting together food based on what is available that day in delicious small courses. Like Uri Buri restaurant in Israel, the server will keep bringing additional courses until you stay “stop.”

And they were all so absolutely delicious:

  • BBQ crab with cashew cream, celeriac root, grated horseradish, grilled broccolini and mustard, and grilled oat milk breadEgget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_192117
  • Grilled hake with apple cream from the chef’s dad’s garden, kaffir lime zest, and fennel leaves
  • Grilled fish with perfectly crispy skin and a spicy, rich, deeply flavored shrimp bouillon I couldn’t get enough of
  • Egget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_195503
  • Crispy-skin lamb with blistered carrots and pumpkin seedsEgget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_201827
  • Cheese course

Of course, you can tell them any dietary restrictions at the start, and the dishes will be tailored to you as needed (and don’t worry, the staff and chef speak excellent English).

There is also a comprehensive wine selection, that you can enjoy without the pressure of buying an entire bottle, with the server/sommelier guiding you in wine pairings for that day’s courses.

Egget was a great solo dining destination, with a counter overlooking the open kitchen where you can sit and watch the details of how each dish is prepared and if you’re lucky like I was, make friends with fellow diners.

Also, the price was so reasonable for what I got!

The total bill came out to 1,020 NOK (105 Euros/US$120), with about one quarter of the price for my wine pairings and the remaining three-quarters covering the four courses plus cheese plate.

Fisketorget

Fisketorget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_130037

Located right on the water’s edge, Fisketorget is part fish market (its literal translation) and part restaurant serving up local fish and seafood specialties.

For me, this was Norwegian comfort food in a beautiful locale, with plenty of beer and wine options to pair with your food.

Fisketorget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_133244

While looking out over the nearby inlet, I enjoyed a giant bowl of Norwegian specialty fiskesuppe for lunch, a hearty fish soup which had delicious flavors and lots of different type of seafood – the perfect cozy indulgence to warm me up on a chilly day.

Fisketorget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_131855Fisketorget Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180926_131909

Renaa Matbaren

Renaa Matbaren Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180924_112756

Although I did not make it to Stavanger’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, RE-NAA, I had a fabulous meal at the slightly less formal version, known as Renaa Matbaren.

Food in Norway tends to be on the pricey side, but if you come for lunch here, there is a great “lunch box” deal with a set starter and dessert, along with a choice of three main dishes.

First, the food is outstanding, with great combinations of cooking techniques to yield delicious flavor and texture combinations that you’ll want to savor for each bite. There is also a great wine list, with many options by the glass to pair with your food.

But the piece of my experience at Renaa Matbaren that put it over the top was the exceptional service.

Although I was dressed for the ferry ride I would take shortly after my meal, I was treated like a queen when I dined there, without any assumptions being made based on my appearance, which was just a wee bit casual:

Renaa Matbaren Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180924_112844

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In addition to this more casual version and the original Michelin-starred RE-NAA, there is also an Xpress RE-NAA bakery and artisan pizzeria.

Where to Drink in Stavanger

Pjolter & Punsj

Pjolter & Punsj Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180927_214826

You know it’s a great cocktail spot when you come for one post-dinner drink and end up staying for three.

Plus, you make half a dozen friends along the way.

First off, let me say that the cocktails are incredible. Mixing drinks behind the bar is award-winning mixologist Truls Thomsen, who was also fun to chat with (plus, he lived in both the US and Perth, Australia, just like me!).

Many of the cocktail ingredients are in-house concoctions that take several days to prepare, and it shows when you taste the delicious result. Which is why this is where the servers from the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant choose to drink at the end of their shift.

There are also a lot of local spirits and sensibility woven into the cocktail menu here.

Each drink on the menu is displayed along with a different sardine tin, an homage to the now defunct canning industry in Stavanger.

Pjolter & Punsj Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination 20180927_214450

Flavor combinations are locally and historically inspired, with aquavit (a local spirit) as a prominent ingredient in the cocktails.

Which isn’t hard to do because the bar boasts the largest aquavit collection in the region.

This spot could easily thrive in London or New York or Bangkok – but instead you get to enjoy it in Stavanger.

Places to Check Out Next Time

Lervig Aktiebryggeri

Craft beer has exploded in Norway in recent years. Lervig is Stavanger’s local brewery, with its beers widely available at restaurants and bars around town.

You can also visit the brewery itself, with lots of information on the English website linked above, including how to book a tour.

RE-NAA

This is Stavanger’s 1st Michelin-starred restaurant and also the older sibling to Renaa Matbaren, where I enjoyed the fabulous three-course lunch mentioned above.

After having tasted the chef’s creations, I’d definitely splurge on a meal at this spot on a return trip to Stavanger. It is 1,600 NOK for the 20-22 course tasting menu (165 Euros/US$190) and then another 1,400 NOK (so almost as much!) for the wine pairings.

Start saving your Norwegian kronor now!

Sabi Omakase

One year after RE-NAA earned a Michelin star in 2016, this spot joined it with one of its own.

A sushi omakase experience limited to 10 diners per seating, Sabi Omakase runs about the same price as RE-NAA, at 1495 NOK per person for food and offering wine pairing at the same price, which is approximately 150 Euros/US$175 for each.

Yes, so now you might have just a bit of an idea why I ate so well in Stavanger during my visit.

It was a big reason I loved Norway, and why I’m now recommending it as a top travel destination to anyone who will listen.

READ MORE: Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Whenever I return to Norway, I’m eager to spend even more time eating my way through the city.

Happy Travels! Lana

Any other top spots I should check out when I return to Stavanger? What has been your favorite city for eating? Any city that surprised you with its foodie scene?

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Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway - Surprise Foodie Destination

How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok

How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok

I hated Bangkok the first time I visited.

I’m the kind of person who goes to a new city, and even before I leave, am planning itineraries in my head for when I am able to return. Questions like “What city would you like to go back to?” always stump me because the honest answer is “Almost everywhere.”

In Bangkok, I spent my time thinking about how quickly I could escape the city and never have to come back.

Fast forward to when I was living in Milan, Italy and as part of a holiday raffle, won a prize that would have excited anyone else – a free round-trip flight to Bangkok!

Winning a Trip to Bangkok from Milan How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20141125_160018

Honestly, I felt a bit restrained in my excitement. How did I end up with the one gift everyone would want but me??

Quickly rationalizing in my head, I realized that a flight to Bangkok would be a good excuse to go to Hong Kong and celebrate Chinese New Year there. And that I could tack on some time in northern Thailand for rock climbing and other adventures that I had skipped on my first trip.

Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai, Thailand before returning to Bangkok
Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Even though I had to fly through Bangkok both coming and going – honestly? I debated spending any time in the city at all.

In the end, to avoid having multiple back-to-back flights to get back home to Milan, I decided to spend a minimal amount of time in Bangkok and would try to have a better experience the second time around.

Why I Hated Bangkok & Tips for What to Do Instead

Bangkok is not an easy city for many travelers, even experienced ones. It boasts its own special brand of chaos that is hard to handle and can be quite frustrating. Even more so if you’ll be traveling solo.

READ MORE: How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

Here I break down all the parts of Bangkok that drove me crazy on my first visit – and what to do instead so you don’t repeat my mistakes and have an enjoyable visit when you go. I even came away from my return visit liking the city.

It’s possible, I swear!

#1 | What Went Wrong with Taxis and Tuk Tuks

Trying to go somewhere? Transportation in Bangkok can be a challenge.

The drivers with orange vests are motorbike taxis

It was sometimes hard to hail a tuk tuk – the open-air mini transport common in southeast Asia – if you weren’t going to one of the most common tourist spots. Other than heading toward Khao San Road where backpackers tend to stay, drivers would often shrug their shoulders at your intended destination and simply drive off.

Taxi rides were equally difficult to come by. Even once after getting in the taxi – ably hailed with assistance from hotel staff – I got lost on the way (even with a street address written out in Thai!) because so many street names are identical or don’t go in order depending on which direction you’re traveling in the city.

Another time when I had Google Maps open on my cell phone in Thai, and an address marked off with a star, after minimal effort glancing at the screen, the taxi driver decided that it was too much effort to figure out the destination and he simply drove off without me.

What to Do Instead

Even though it doesn’t help all of the time, having verified locations with Thai writing and marked on a map ready to show the driver will increase your chances of hailing transport immensely. The one time I could not get a taxi to take me to my destination, a tuk tuk driver consulted the map on my phone and was able to go right there.

Orderly lines at the Skytrain station
Orderly lines at the Skytrain station

It also helps to stay somewhere that is close to the Skytrain or other public transportation, so that you are minimally dependent on tuk tuks or taxis to get around. I stayed right by a Skytrain station on my return visit and it was much easier to get around the city on my own.

Check out budget hotel deals in Bangkok HERE

TIP! If you are staying at a hotel or near a hotel, it is probably much easier to get a tuk tuk or taxi organized there. Staff are happy to hail one off the street or call.

TIP! There are also some taxi apps that were not available on my first trip but exist now – see the ‘General Travel Tips’ section below.

#2 | What Went Wrong with the Weather

Bangkok the first time around was quite uncomfortable with the heat. Even though it was December, it was quite hot visiting attractions during the day, and I was coated in a glistening sheen of sweat within minutes of walking outside.

What to Do Instead

The obvious solution, which did not occur to me on my first visit, is to simply do a tour of outdoor attractions at night, when temperatures are cooler. On my return trip, I did a fabulous Bangkok Night Lights Tuk Tuk Tour with Expique.

Wat Worawihan at night
Wat Worawihan at night
Wat Pho at night
Wat Pho at night

While I don’t always opt for organized tours when I travel, this small group tour was perfect. During the more moderate weather after the sun went down, tuk tuks whisked us around the city, and our engaging guide shared tidbits of information at every stop and shared a Thai local’s perspective.

Explore Tour Options with Expique HERE

In addition having a guide, taking the tour made transportation easy. The meeting point was at a Skytrain station and since there are dedicated tuk tuks for the entire tour, you don’t have to contend with the hassle of hailing a tuk tuk yourself between each attraction as you would have to do on your own.

Expique Tuk Tuk Tour How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150301_214009

TIP! You can also pay extra to have your tuk tuk transport you back to your accommodation at the end of the tour.

#3 | What Went Wrong with Money

You would not believe how many arguments ensued with taxi drivers about making change.

It goes something like this: I offer a bill sufficient to pay the fare. The driver holds up his hands helplessly explaining that he does not have enough change and asks if you have a smaller bill. As a tourist, it’s hard to tell if it’s a real predicament or if someone is trying to scam you.

What to Do Instead

While in some cases it may seem like someone trying to extort you into paying more, the reality is that most street vendors and tuk tuk or taxi drivers only have small bills. If you have anything decently large (500 Baht or more), they may legitimately struggle to make small change.

Even though 500 Baht is only around US$15 or 15, it is often too large a bill for vendors or drivers to accept or make change for.

Thai Baht How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand

Be prepared to over-tip or even easier – avoid conflict by having small bills on hand. Otherwise the Asian custom of saving face may prevail, and the driver in an effort to avoid conflict, will drive off without any money at all. Don’t put drivers in this difficult position.

TIP! Change out any large ATM bills at a currency exchange – this is easy to do at the airport or your hostel/hotel – or at a brick-and-mortar store like a 7-11 or supermarket if you make a small purchase.

#4 | What Went Wrong with Public Transportation

In many cities I’ve traveled around the world, local public transportation systems have pretty thorough coverage of the city center. In Bangkok on my first visit, this was not the case.

My hotel was not particularly close to a Skytrain station, and there were very limited options to get around without taking the long trek or struggling with other transport options. It was a hassle, and felt limiting in terms of exploring the city.

What to Do Instead

Stay near a centrally located Skytrain station!

TripAdvisor

As I’ve already mentioned, finding taxis or tuk tuks are not always easy, so having nearby access to the reliable transportation system dramatically changes your experience in the city. I was able to easily get to my accommodation from the airport when I arrived and had close access to get around Bangkok on my own once I arrive.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Of course, being central as well as near a Skytrain station ensures more access on foot as well, and there were several attractions and markets within walking distance.

Walking around Bangkok
Walking around Bangkok

For my second visit, I stayed at In A Box Hostel.

Find budget accommodations at In A Box Hostel HERE

Find other great deals on accommodation options in Bangkok HERE

#5 | What Went Wrong with the Crowds

When Bangkok gets crowded, it is really crowded.

My first visit was over New Year’s Eve, and the city was completely packed during the holiday period. Like other cities around the world, Bangkok has a large fireworks display that attracts a lot of tourists looking to celebrate somewhere memorable.

Traveling during a holiday period also meant overwhelming crowds and lines at tourist attractions, with most people heading in similar directions to the most popular markets and sights around town.

Wat Pho during the day. Not pictured: the immense crowds below.
Wat Pho during the day. Not pictured: the immense crowds below.

What to Do Instead

First, the Bangkok Night Lights Tuk Tuk Tour with Expique that I mentioned in #2 above was a great way to experience the city and sights minus the crowds. I wish I had known about it on my first visit.

Explore Tour Options with Expique HERE

Bangkok also boasts also lesser known but equally amazing tourist attractions, like The Jim Thompson House. Seek out more sights that are off the beaten path to experience Bangkok in a more relaxed way.  Or visit during the off season.

Museum dedicated to the American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry before his mysterious (still unsolved) disappearance in Malaysia in 1967
Museum dedicated to the American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry before his mysterious (still unsolved) disappearance in Malaysia in 1967

General Travel Tips for Bangkok

Of course, compensating for all of the typical first-time visitor mistakes won’t be enough to keep you safe and happy in Bangkok all on their own.

Most of the tips listed below are general city smarts, although some are specific to Bangkok and Thailand.

Here are some more tips for when you go:

Plan to haggle.

Take at least half the price off the initial offer from any vendor when you make your counteroffer, but be kind when reaching an agreeable price.

Keep valuables secure.

Especially with all the motorbikes zooming around, the threat of a snatch-and-grab for your purse, camera, or other valuables is real. Be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables secure and out of reach of any rapidly passing vehicles, especially motorbikes.

Mid-day traffic

Watch out for scams.

The most common scams are people telling you either that “tourist attractions are closed for official reason X” or that there are “no restaurants are in that direction” – and then re-directing you to their friend’s jewelry store or overpriced tourist restaurant.

At tourist attractions, scammers may even be wearing official-looking badges!

Also, don’t buy any gems or jewelry or tailored suits unless it is from a reputable store someone reliable has vouched for. These are common products that many scammers target.

Be Savvy with each Transit Option.

Tuk Tuks. Be sure to negotiate a price before you get in and don’t pay until the end of your trip when you have arrived at your destination.

TIP! It helps to ask at your hostel/hotel what the approximate price should be before hitting the streets, so you can have confidence with your negotiations.

Peering out at the brightly colored taxis
Peering out at the brightly colored taxis

Taxis. Be sure you are running on the meter, and then track the route on your phone to be sure you’re being taken the direct way. If the driver refuses to run on the meter, leave the vehicle and find a different taxi.

Apps. Uber and GrabTaxi are great alternatives to hailing a taxi off the street.

TIP! If you plan to hail taxis with the apps, buy a local SIM card or be sure your home country’s data plan will work.

Boats. I didn’t realize that boats were part of public transit until late in my first visit. It’s a great way to get between many places most directly.

Practice good Buddha etiquette.

Buddha How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand DSC_0164

Don’t sit with your feet facing the Buddha or take any pictures where you are higher than Buddha. Even if it’s sweltering, having something lightweight like a scarf or cardigan to cover up. And remove hats and shoes before entering a temple.

Explore local cuisine.

Street Food Vendors How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150302_162209Street Food Chatuchak Market How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150301_145229

Gorge yourself on street food, especially at Chatuchak Market on the weekend. Many dishes come as a series of little bites, so easy to sample many different items from different stands, whether you’re at a market or just strolling around the city.

You’ll also see sidewalk cafes that have tables to sit-down, but are basically full restaurants where all the cooking happens on the street!

Tasting menu for one at nahm
Tasting menu for one at nahm

And of course, Bangkok has great upscale and fine dining spots. But what you may not know is that they are likely to be way more affordable than comparable spots at home. As a solo traveler, I was pleasantly surprised at how many dishes I was able to sample off tasting menus, like the one at nahm, on my return visit.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Take a cooking class.

Cooking Class at Silom Thai Cooking School How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand DSC_0188

Using a large mortar and pestle to grind green curry paste.
Using a large mortar and pestle to grind green curry paste.

I don’t always take cooking classes when I travel, but it is a great approachable way to learn about the ingredients you’ll find at Thai markets and how to turn them into delicious dishes. I still use what I learned at a cooking class with Silom Thai Cooking School in Bangkok to cook Thai dishes at home regularly.

Find Silom Thai Cooking School Reviews & Booking Information HERE

Treat yourself.

Foot Massage How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand

Massages in Thailand are ridiculously cheap. I found my favorite spot on my last visit by looking at reviews close to where I was staying and found a great, local spot.

Outside of fancy hotels and spas you’ll spend a mere US$5 or 5 for either an hour-long foot massage or full body massage.

TripAdvisor

Obviously there are a lot of great reasons for visiting Bangkok and Thailand, and yes, I recommend that you visit. However, having a great time is not as easy to do as it might be in some other places you’ve visited.

So keep your travel savvy heightened when you go and follow these tips – and you’ll have an amazing time.

Happy travels!
Lana

Have you ever been to Bangkok? Did you enjoy your visit? Any other tips that I missed?

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How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand BuddhaHow to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand National Museum

How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

If you’re like me and love going out to a restaurant with a group of adventurous friends, because it means you get to sample even more different dishes, the thought of traveling solo may give you pause. How will you consume enough meals to taste all of the local dishes? What if there are multiple dishes you’d like to sample, but you’re just not hungry enough to order (and eat) them all?

As someone who both loves to eat and savors my time traveling solo, this issue has come up for me time and again. Over the last two decades or so, I have definitely honed what types of food I seek out when I’m on my own on the road, to maximize the number of different bites and how much local cuisine I get to experience. And fortunately, as solo travel has become more commonplace, I don’t get nearly the amount of looks or raised eyebrows as I used to when asking for a “table for one.”

How to Dine Solo, Your Own Way

“Oh no,” you’re thinking, “I just don’t feel comfortable eating at a restaurant by myself.” Don’t worry, that’s okay! Several of the options below involve street food or eating-on-the-go. And even at a proper restaurant, a lot of times there is a bar where you can sit and order food and socialize, or possibly a communal table where you may encounter others traveling solo or other friendly diners.

For those of you ready to dine solo at a restaurant for the first time, it can look like whatever you’re comfortable with. I’ve seen people reading a newspaper or a book as they eat alone, which for many eliminates what would otherwise be a socially awkward situation. Others spend it on their smart phone, reading, planning, or staying in touch with friends. Some solo diners sit back and quietly take in their surroundings. And others will just keep a deep focus on the food, slowly savoring each bite.

Personally, I tend to either be introspective, reflecting on my day or strategizing for the day ahead, or will go into people-watching mode. I’ll sit and quietly observe the diners around me inside the restaurant, pretending I am at an outdoor table at a cafe watching the passers-by. Occasionally, I’ll read – usually a long-form newspaper article or an article to learn more about a tourist attraction I already visited. And when the food comes, I do my best to channel my focus on truly enjoying the flavors as I eat. Do what works best for you!

Foods to Seek Out

To eat well during solo travel, my basic strategy is to cobble together a bunch of different bites on my own, by sampling the offerings of different street food vendors or enjoying small plates of food at a sit-down restaurant – in whatever combination feels right on a particular trip. Here’s what to look for:

Appetizers

I mention a lot of specific types of cuisine below, but in fact, any restaurant can be turned into your own customized version of small plates by simply ordering 2-3 starters or sides instead of a main dish. Just ask before you order, and most places will be happy to accommodate you. It can also be helpful to specify if you want your dishes to arrive all at once, or to be brought out one at a time.

bakery 20161206_141351

Bakeries

Bakeries and pastry shops (or bakery sections in supermarkets) can offer a quick bite in the morning to leave room for a larger lunch. You can also get a taste of local life by sampling the baked good of choice, whether sweet or savory. Or get a bunch of smaller items to sample for lunch, as nibbles throughout the day, or snacks to consume while out hiking.

brekky 20160627_103021

Breakfast or Brunch

You may not have thought of it this way before, but many breakfast or brunch options can really be several different types of food all on a single plate together: eggs, potatoes, vegetables, and a sauce. Even if breakfast is included with my accommodation, I will still sometimes go out somewhere for a more authentic first meal of the day, and a lot of countries have very local breakfast options that you won’t see anywhere else (check out this post on Singaporean breakfast for the details on one of my favorites). And many breakfasts can be ordered for take away if you don’t feel like dining alone.

Buffets

In general I’m not a huge buffet person, but when I’m on the road for a limited time, it can often be the most effective way to sample many different dishes of the local cuisine. Often hotels or hotel restaurants will serve food buffet-style, and you typically don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to partake. Do be sure to check ahead of time when buffet meals will be available, as in certain locales it will only be offered on 1 night each week (or only specifically feature local cuisine on a single night).

Happy Hour

Taking place usually over a few hours in the afternoon, happy hour often includes special deals on small portions of food and allows you to sit at the bar if you feel like socializing. Italy has especially good happy hour options, from small bites or buffet spreads at aperitivo to traditional tapas in Venice known as cicchetti. Wherever you’ll be traveling solo likely has some similar local happy hour specials. Ask at your hostel or hotel, or gather some intel from locals who can point you in the right direction.

indian thali 20161028_135253

Indian restaurants

In my experience, there are a fair number of Indian restaurants all over the world that have lunch buffets or set menus available. When I am traveling solo and seeking out Indian food, I will also peruse a menu in advance to see if there is thali available, another option which is a built-in way to try lots of dishes. A thali is basically like a sampler platter and will include bread, rice, and a mix of other curries and dishes, all for a reasonable price. Usually a vegetarian and meat thali option will both be offered.

set menu DSC_0271

Set Menus

You’ll see a set menu option more often for lunch, with a choice of a few dishes for each course, sometimes including a beverage and/or dessert. Set menus offer a good value on price as well.  One of my favorite places to take advantage of a set menu is in Liechtenstein, which otherwise can be a pricey place to dine out. Keep your eyes open starting in the late morning when these specials begin to be advertised, and find a spot that strikes your fancy or fits your budget.

Spanish restaurants

I have one word for you: tapas! These small plates have become trendy in a lot of places outside of Spain, so in many countries you’ll be able to find a Spanish restaurant where the dishes come in small enough portions that you can pick out a few different ones and still have a reasonably sized meal for one. Of course this works in Spain as well, and is especially fun at a busy market stall. Plus, many tapas places I’ve visited – both in Spain and elsewhere – have a bar where you can sit and order dishes, which can be a more social experience for solo travellers.

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Street Food

There are many cities renowned for their street food offerings, but even for most others, you can find delicious and inexpensive bites on the go. Street food lets you eat with your other senses first – hearing the sizzle of a piece of meat on a grill, smelling enticing aromas waft toward you, or seeing where the locals queue up for the best bites. I’ve had some of my best street food experiences in Asia (Bangkok & Chiang Mai in Thailand have possibly been my favorite spots – for being able to get small bites from a lot of different vendors). But if you keep your eyes open you’ll see street vendors in most cities you visit, and there are also a lot of places where Food Trucks are trendy and ever-present with many types of cuisines represented. Go ahead and sample whatever catches your eye. Or tempts one of your other senses.

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Tasting Menus

On the opposite end of the budget spectrum, you can also get a fair bit of food variety on the high-end of dining, especially when there is a tasting or degustation menu available. And at several of these more fancy establishments, you’ll even have the option to sit at the bar or communal table, which can be a less intimidating experience for the solo diner. This can be true even at Michelin-starred places, like the satisfying tasting menu I recently enjoyed at Stockholm’s Ekstedt (sitting at a communal table where I met and chatted during the whole meal with another solo traveller!).

Or the very reasonably priced tasting menus I enjoyed on my own at Restaurant Bieberbau in Berlin and several restaurants around Malta.

READ MORE: Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

Turkish (or Middle Eastern) restaurants

This is another cuisine that naturally lends itself to having a lot of small dishes – called mezze – cobbled together to form a meal. Think grilled meats, falafel balls, hummus, babaganoush, and tabbouli in small portions that together can form a satisfying single meal with a whole lot of variety. Middle Eastern cuisines can also be well-suited to vegetarians, as many of the mezze are vegetable- or legume-based.

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Vegetarian restaurants

Despite not having meat on the menu, vegetarian and vegan restaurants can offer some of the best variety of bites on a single plate. I usually encounter a mix of starches, proteins, and vegetables that can be mixed and matched for a single dish. Sometimes there are even small plates available. And although I’m not a vegetarian, some of my most recent memorable bites dining solo have been at vegetarian establishments.

 

Of course, there is no one right way to eat well while traveling solo. This list is really a starting point for you to venture out and figure out what types of cuisine and dining formats feel comfortable for you, and help you to maximize your time alone on the road. And of course, as you become a more and more seasoned solo traveler, use this list as inspiration for that food or restaurant to try next!

Do you notice yourself gravitating toward certain foods when you travel solo? What things have you found most helpful to keep in mind for eating well when you travel on your own? Any other advice or cuisines to add to the list? Share your tips below!

EAT WELL (1)

Travel Superlatives 2018

Travel Superlatives 2018

Wow, 2018 turned out to be quite the travel whirlwind – filled with many travel highlights, good and bad!

Last year, I explored 2 new countries. This year I made it to 5: Denmark, Honduras, Malta, Nicaragua, and Norway.

Not that I’m so into the whole country counting thing, but I keep track every so often and realized with my recent cruise stop in Honduras, I’ve now been to 59 countries!

READ MORE: What’s the Big Deal with ‘Country Counting’ Anyway?

This year, with some strategic planning around holidays and generous leave at my full-time job, I also managed several longer trips, many of them returning to some favorite countries and cities I’ve visited before – like Belgium, Italy (where I lived for 3 years!), New Orleans, Philadelphia, and San Francisco.

Across my many trips, there were those moments that stood out for being blissful, with the stars seemingly aligning just right. There were many visually beautiful moments, meandering on a road trip through picturesque scenery or hiking through breathtaking nature. And also hilariously terrible moments when everything seemed to go incredibly wrong and I tried to recover as best I could – or at least wallow in misery and live to travel another day.

Here are some of those memorable travel experiences:

A Multitude of Travel Fails

Sure, I’m Travel Savvy Gal, but how do you think I got so savvy? By doing things wrong, of course! Sometimes repeatedly.

And with all of my travel this year, even with all the things I did do right, it inevitably didn’t *all* go according to plan.

There were the little things that I kicked myself for – not paying attention to my direction and ending up on the sunny side of the bus or train, picking the one seat without a power outlet, or somehow finding the seat with a bar underneath and no space to stow bags.

But my most panicked moment came near the start of my first two-week trip to Europe. And I hadn’t even left the US yet!

After going through security, I was sitting at the bar at one of the airport restaurants and dropped my phone. Which of course I had done dozens of time before, but this was the drop that broke my cell phone for good. But it was so close to boarding time that all I could do was take my flight completely phone-less. On top of which, I had forgotten to set an out-of-office message on my work e-mail and couldn’t complete the authentication to log in without a working cell phone! (Luckily when I arrived in Milan, where I have a lot of friends from my 3 years living there, I was able to borrow a friend’s spare smartphone for the trip – phew!)

Then somehow that carelessness was like a curse that extended through the entire trip. As that two-week European adventure in April progressed, I just was not at my best for staying on top of all my belongings.

In Belgium, after a day of exploring when I first arrived, I took a train to Antwerp to reunite with my best friend from my time in Milan, and completely walked off the train without my main luggage that I had stowed on the shelf above the seats. Luckily, Antwerp was the final stop of the train, so when I realized I had left it behind a minute later, the train was still in the station with its doors open and I was able to walk back on and fetch it.

Antwerp Belgium train station Travel Superlatives 2018 DSC_0824

Then, at the last destination that same trip, on my final day in Copenhagen, I lost my Copenhagen Card – which was basically my pre-paid admission to all of the local attractions and my card to access public transit. So for things like the Carlsburg Brewery tour, I had to pay again to enter. Luckily, it was only about a $20 mistake in the end, but it literally cost me.

READ MORE: Top Tips for Not Losing Things When You Travel

New Food Obsession

I don’t get obsessed with a new food every time I visit a new country (I swear!) but my Copenhagen obsession started long before I landed, just by reading a description of local delicacy, smørrebrød. Sure, it’s just an open-faced sandwich – Danish-style – but there is a whole lot more that goes into the perfect bite after perfect bite that I enjoyed there.

Copenhagen, Denmark Smørrebrød Travel Superlatives 2018 DSC_0010

It is color, it is texture, it is flavor. All mixed together with the Danish design sensibility that extends to many area of life in Denmark. Plus, it’s incredibly delicious. So yeah, I admit it, I’m totally obsessed.

READ MORE: Top Thing to Eat in Copenhagen, Denmark: Smørrebrød

Luckiest Budget Moment

My first big trip of 2018 was a week in Nicaragua. I was meant to visit with a friend but she had an emergency (don’t worry, everything is fine now!) and had to back out last minute. I briefly debated whether to still go, although let’s be real, being on my own has not dissuaded me from a trip yet. It just meant that it would be a slightly different trip without her company and that I needed to make some adjustments to my plan to account for not splitting expenses two ways anymore.

My biggest in-country transit was between the island of Ometepe and the town of León, and certainly the budget way to traverse the distance was by bus. Although I had taken the converted school buses known as chicken buses on other stretches, on this journey it would have involved going into the capital city of Managua, transferring buses, and leaving again on a different bus.

With the buses stopping frequently, the trip would have taken all day.

I decided that even though I was traveling solo, I would splurge on a private car transfer to the ferry and then from the ferry on the other side, to minimize how much of the day I’d lose in transit.

Ometepe Nicaragua ferry Travel Superlatives 2018 DSC_0738

My lucky moment came when I approached the reception desk at my guesthouse, and I happened to ask about the trip just as a couple was making the exact same inquiry. We even were targeting the same departure time.

So instead of footing the bill alone, I got to split the ride – 3 ways!

And of course, in true travel fashion, it turned out that there was a lot to connect me and the random couple – from hearing about their home in Denver, where my sister had recently moved, to conversing in Hebrew because she turned out to be Israeli. The driver even got in on the lively conversation along the way, with me translating since I was the only person in the group who spoke Spanish.

READ MORE: Top 13 Reasons to Visit Nicaragua

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists. Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

Craziest Hiking Conditions

I like to hike. Usually with a friend, and often sandwiched in between two city sightseeing days to get some time in nature. Occasionally, I hike solo. I’ve done some serious hiking on my own, but the last time was back in 2016 on a solo weekend in Liechtenstein.

READ MORE: Visiting Liechtenstein: A Perfect Weekend Getaway

Only because I am a semi-serious hiker, had done multiple 6+ hour hikes on my own before, and had trained before the trip, did I even attempt to hike high up in a Norwegian fjord while solo in late September. Which is basically the beginning of their winter.

Despite the cold, there were a lot of fun elements of the hike, however the final section was so brutal that all four people who started out ahead of me turned back before reaching the end. At that point, I was literally alone. In the middle of nowhere. With no cell service.

At the top, with a third of the hike still remaining, the wind was merciless and there were large patches of black ice, where the rock had iced over but you couldn’t tell if it was wet or icy until you extended a tentative step. Plus, the fog had rolled in and there was barely enough visibility to see from one bright red trail marker to the next.

Kjerag hike Lysefjord Norway snow ice Travel Superlatives 2018 20180925_114207

But I am nothing if not persistent, so while continuing to be cautious, I slowly made my way toward the famous wedged boulder known as Kjerag. As its slightly rounded top was covered in a layer of ice and show, standing on it was not possible, but seeing the spot in view was still so incredibly rewarding.

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Most Drinks Consumed

This one might be a tie. Between a cocktail crawl, giant boozy slushies, a distillery visit, and wine tasting in New Orleans (let the good times roll!) and also California wine country, where a friend and I road-tripped with just two winery reservations and still managed to squeeze in tastings at 12 wineries in basically 2 days.

Hurricane cocktail at Pat O'Brien's in New Orleans Louisiana USA Travel Superlatives 2018 20180702_152238Mumm Winery Napa California Travel Superlatives 2018 20181202_161715

In both cases, a lot of different venues were involved, and getting to sample all of the delicious concoctions was also incredibly tied to the sense of place in each location.

READ MORE: Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys, CA

Travel Research Fails

While in Belgium during my April trip, my main concern when picking when to take a day trip to Ghent, Belgium from my home base in Antwerp was centered in part on the weather and in part on my friend’s schedule. And I didn’t know any better, so didn’t do my due diligence until I was en route and realized just how many museums and restaurants would be closed since it was Wednesday. Which seemed awfully random but now I know and you should, too – so it featured in my blog post with tips for visiting Belgium.

READ MORE: 9 Top Belgium Travel Tips

In Philadelphia in the US, I thought I had done my due diligence when I found a spot with great cocktail reviews close to where I’d be exploring on Saturday afternoon of my weekend trip. After trying and failing to find this amazing bar, some closer looking led me to realize that it was a cocktail school, not a bar where I could order drinks! (Luckily, some alternate options were also nearby, and I enjoyed a great pre-dinner cocktail.)

READ MORE: How to Spend a Foodie Weekend in Philadelphia, PA

Most Unexpected Outing

I had briefly been to a secluded beach in the north of Haiti on a cruise with my family over a decade ago. This past February, I returned to a completely different part of the country on a work trip, splitting my time between the capital of Port-au-Prince and the northern Artibonite region. As you might imagine about a country with many travel warnings in place, security is key and was my main focus there.

READ MORE: Things You’d Never Expect on a Trip to Haiti

What was completely unexpected was the cosmopolitan and – thanks to the many aid organizations and non-profits – thriving expat scene in Port-au-Prince. The one Friday night I spent there, I went salsa dancing! Read all about how salsa dancing in P-au-P was different than I expected in the caption below:

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Best Sunsets Enjoyed

I’m not much of a morning person, so I’m far more likely to catch sunset than sunrise (other than in winter, like this recent gem spotted on my way to work). After a year of traveling, a few of these stellar sunsets stand out more than most:

I saw several great sunsets in Malta, but the one that stands out the most was spotted toward the end of a whirlwind day I later called my perfect sightseeing day. After many buses, city exploring, a wine tasting, and some coastal hiking, I swam and took in the views as I swelled with the satisfaction of a wonderful, full day of solo exploring and enjoyed the lovely colors as the sun set over the water.

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay Malta sunset Travel Superlatives 2018 20181001_184327

READ MORE: Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

As someone who loves water views, I also took *so many* pictures of sunset on my Caribbean cruise. I still think my favorite views though, were on the first night as the ship left port in Miami just as the sun was going down:

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READ MORE: Top 7 Excuses for Not Going on a Cruise

READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Cruise

On vacation, watching sunset it usually an item on my itinerary, while at home, I often get caught up doing something without remembering to glance outside. I almost missed this boldly colored one while at home in Baltimore, but then I just happened to look out the window and see how stunning and bright this one was. Luckily I have a rooftop deck and was able to rush up there with both my phone and camera to appreciate its beauty. Plus, snap a few shots, of course.

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Most Unexpected Foodie City

You’re probably expecting me to list some famous city that you have heard of or been to, but may not have realized has a foodie scene.

Well, here goes: Stavanger, Norway. No, doesn’t ring a bell?

Honestly, I had never heard of Stavanger either until I realized that it was the most convenient jumping off point for all of the hiking I wanted to do in the nearby Norwegian fjord. But critical to its foodie scene is the fact that Stavanger is also an oil city and has plenty of high-paid executives that frequently dine out for business and sustain some fancy and delicious places all around town.

Foodie Meal at Renaa Matbaren in Stavanger Norway Travel Superlatives 2018 20180924_113830

Norway’s first Michelin star awarded outside of Oslo was to a Stavanger restaurant back in 2016 (now there are more). And I enjoyed some of my most memorable meals of the year there.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

Most Last-Minute Flight Purchase for Vacation

I thought it was cutting things close when I lived in Milan and didn’t buy a ticket for a weekend trip to London until the Wednesday before a Friday afternoon flight. For the first time in my life, when I scanned my boarding pass at the gate, it beeped.

Because I had been tagged as a high security risk.

“Did you by any chance by your ticket in the last 48 hours?”

Why yes, yes I did. After breathing a sigh of relief as they confirmed the likely reason for my being flagged, the flight attendant fortunately had no problem letting me on the flight.

This year, I topped that moment.

I had planned months ahead for my Norway trip, securing a one-way evening flight to Bergen (via Stockholm) on Norwegian Air. Early afternoon the day before my flight, I started getting a series of text notifications about problems with the airplane.

Twenty texts and two hour-long phone calls later, it became apparent that my original flight would be canceled. And I’d be delayed at least one day – if not more – due to the connection I’d then miss.

So I did what any frequent traveler would do – right? I started a whole flurry of activity.

I checked with travel insurance to see what extra costs would be covered. Then I called Norwegian Air on different numbers simultaneously (one on my cell, one on Skype) to get a hold of a person as fast as possible to refund the original flight.

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AND then, once my confirmation e-mail came through, I bought a completely new one-way plane ticket to Bergen on a different airline.

By the time this all got sorted out, it was so close to 24 hours before my flight departed the next day that my purchase confirmation and check-in reminder came within 10 minutes of each other!

Iceland Air flight confirmation Bergen Norway Travel Superlatives 2018

(And just for the record, Norwegian Air’s Customer Service is excellent – My request took a month to process, but not only did they refund the cost of my original flight, they also paid me for the $300 fare difference for the last-minute flight I booked. So I never did have to make that claim with my travel insurance.)

Biggest Travel Win

A Romanian friend who has been living and working in the US quit her job to return to Europe and wanted to go on a girls’ road trip to San Francisco and nearby wine country in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. So she called me, obviously! (No arm twisting required.)

We booked flights to California three weeks in advance. As is my usual, I booked the flight, told my friend, then added us to the wait list for all 3 of the nights we’d be in wine country for the most outrageous restaurant in the region, The French Laundry. Which is considered one of the hardest reservations to get in the US (even if you book months ahead of time).

The French Laundry Yountville California inbox Travel Superlatives 2018

I didn’t think much of this, and had pretty much forgotten all about it by the time we started our trip.

After all, I had joined a wait list for Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy and for Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark when I visited both areas in April of this year – and didn’t hear from either restaurant. But of course you can’t get in off the wait list if you don’t even try.

So imagine my surprise when I got a call from a California number I didn’t recognize as we were wine tasting up and down the Napa Valley on Sunday afternoon.

The French Laundry has a spot for us? What?!?!??

YES, of course we want to come for dinner on Monday at the French Laundry. Most people make a dinner reservation at The French Laundry, and only *then* book a plane ticket to California. Which was the only way I thought I’d ever be able to go. Then here they were offering me a spot! (Although of course also asking me to pre-pay the $700 for two on my credit card online within the hour at a moment’s notice.)

No problem, sign us up!

In the wake of the flurry of activity securing the reservation, I felt like pinching myself to see if it was all really happening.

I’m still in such disbelief that the website confirmation of my reservation is still open in the browser on my phone 2 weeks later:

The French Laundry Yountville California online confirmation Travel Superlatives 2018

After the call and confirming our seats, my friend and I were finally grabbing some lunch in between wine tastings and just looked at each other – did that really just happen??

READ MORE: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

At The French Laundry!
At The French Laundry!

Those ‘pinch me, is this real?’ moments are what makes me love the travel experience and continue coming back for more. More new experiences, more elation, more crazy disappointment that sometimes is so ridiculous that it borders on the hilarious.

You need the travel blunders to appreciate the wins. Without the lows, you can’t fully appreciate the glorious highs when everything goes right. It may sound counter-intuitive, but it’s true, I promise.

I just try to be present in the moment and savor it all as it comes, grateful to be here and able to experience it all.

For more highlights from recent years, check out my previous Travel Superlatives round up posts:

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2017

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2016

What were the highlights of your travel year? And what was the craziest thing that happened to you on the road? Any place that I mentioned you’d like to see more blog posts about?

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Travel Superlatives 2018

Travel Superlatives of 2017: To Inspire Your Next Adventure

Travel Superlatives of 2017: To Inspire Your Next Adventure

This year has involved quite a lot of transitions. I started my first full-time job in quite some time (hint: it’s not blogging) and have been slowly figuring out how to balance it with my passion for blogging, travel, and you know – life, the universe, and everything!

This also marks a full year spent back in the US after five years abroad, and it hasn’t always been smooth sailing. I was shocked at how much my post on moving “home” resonated with readers, and continues to resonate with many others experiencing the same challenging transition. It is the post when I felt the most vulnerable clicking that “Publish” button, but such a lesson to me that it is when you really put your authentic self out there that you connect the most with those around you.

     READ MORE: What It’s Like Moving Back “Home” & Tips on How to Adjust

And that’s really what my travel superlatives come down to. It’s a collection of moments in far-flung places and spots close to home when I connected with those around me. Sometimes through an experience and sometimes a meal, but all were opportunities for wonder with some excellent company to share it all with. And a bit of adventure.

I hope you enjoy my stories from the road and perhaps even find some travel inspiration for the year ahead. Here are the moments resonating with me from the past year:

Best Nature Adventure: Belize’s ATM Cave

I love caving and adventure, plus the tour to Belize’s ATM Cave (you must be on a tour to enter) was touted by every operator as the top day trip to do from San Ignacio, Belize. The tour itself was absolutely incredible, involving plenty of strolling, swimming, and even a bit of rock climbing to navigate the internal passageways of the cave, including ancient Mayan sites. Wow, just wow.

     READ MORE: Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave, a Mayan Archaeological Wonder

     READ MORE: 9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

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Best Tour: Hoover Dam insider “Dam Tour”

The Dam Tour is limited to 20 people every half hour and can only be purchased in person on the day. But it is worth an early start to guarantee a spot on one of the coolest tours I’ve ever been on. Due to security concerns, the insider tour no longer includes a trip to the Power Plant floor, but in its place you get to wander behind the scenes through the inside of the dam itself in areas that were never intended for visitors. There is amazingly cool graffiti and other markings along the way, plus some killer views through vents peering from the inside out!

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Best Wine Tasting: DelFosse Vineyards in Charlottesville, VA

I spent the weekend before my birthday on a getaway to Charlottesville, Virginia, a pretty easy drive from the Baltimore/Washington, DC area. I had been a few times before and one of my fondest memories from a weekend I spent in 2007 was of a barrel tasting at a winery up a gravel road a bit outside of town. My return visit to DelFosse Vineyards a decade later was just as memorable, with a personable and delicious journey through their wine collection during the tasting. Both their whites and reds are something special. And yes, there’s still a gravel road for those last few minutes.

     READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia: The Monticello Wine Trail

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A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on

New Go-To Activity: Hiking

I’ve always liked hiking and mixed it in with my city escapes, but this is the first year that I’ve headed into some weekends with an intense desire to get out in nature – at which point I hunted down a hiking buddy or headed out on my own. Maybe it’s my mentality shifting with age, but nothing helps to reset my mind than exploring nature’s beauty with my own two feet.

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A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on

Most Memorable Bites: Cambridge, MA & Charlottesville, VA

Let me start by saying that I had some pretty epic meals this year. From cooking my first-ever rack at lamb at home to savoring meals at high-end restaurants serving up 20+ course tasting menus, there have been some very delicious bites (yes, I’m a lucky lady!). But the two most memorable dishes of the year for me are the ones that were unique and flavorful and even months later stand out in my mind.

The first is a a crab and kimchi stew that I enjoyed at The Table at Season to Taste in Cambridge (Boston), Massachusetts. It was such an incredible overall (solo dining) experience that I boldly wrote a whole blog post about it as my best of 2017 all the way back in March and it still rings true all these months later.

     READ MORE: Foodie Scoop – My Best Meal of 2017 So Far: The Table in Boston

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The other most memorable dish is a crispy scallop appetizer that I enjoyed at Brasserie Saison in Charlottesville, Virginia. It doesn’t sound like all that much but it stands out in my mind both for being something I have never seen before (Crispy scallop outside and smooth-as-silk inside? Amazing!) and also because it was so perfectly executed that every bite was a piece of heaven.

     READ MORE: How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

Brasserie Saison Charlottesville Virginia Travel Superlatives of 2017 To Inspire Your Next Adventure 20170609_205012

Best Art Exhibit: Kusama’s Infinity Mirrors

I first saw Yayoi Kusama’s art in Stockholm, Sweden and was so in awe of her unique style that I waited in a crazy line to get access to another exhibit of hers this year in Washington, DC. This latest exhibition included multiple ‘infinity rooms’ that were basically giant cubes you could step into with mirrors on all sides and see incredible lights and designs reflected all around you. Check out my blog post for more on the mesmerizing art, plus details on how to get access and when this exhibit may be headed your way – in 2018 it will be in Los Angeles, Toronto, Cleveland, and Atlanta!

     READ MORE: Yayoi Kusama’s Art: Exhibitions I’ve Seen & Where to Catch Her Next

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Best Way to Experience My New Home City: On the Water

Part of my adjustment back living stateside has been to express gratitude and focus on all of the benefits of being back after time abroad. Certainly the convenience of American life and access to ethnic food top my list, but being in the city of Baltimore specifically means that I live quite close to the water. I can walk there in around 5 minutes and there’s even a free commuter water taxi stop nearby that will take me to a few different spots across the harbor. And my running route takes me along the water’s edge by Fort McHenry, where the Star Spangled Banner (the American national anthem) was written. Some of my favorite Baltimore water views from the past year:

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Hidden Gem City Escape: Detroit, Michigan

When you think of ‘Motor City’ you’re probably imagining car production or dangerous neighborhoods, but the Detroit of today is so much more. My highlights from a long weekend there included fancy cocktails bars, craft breweries, apple cider mills, some delicious bites, and all sorts of notable art and architecture. Detroit’s revitalization is still a work in progress, but it is already soaring and a spot I’d return to in a heartbeat!

     READ MORE: Finding Zero Mile in Detroit

     READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know About Detroit Before You Visit

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Hidden Gem Outdoors: Sanibel Island, Florida

My first flight of the year was in January to visit my dad who now lives in Florida. Of course, the primary goal of the trip was to spend some quality time together, so I specifically refrained from doing too much research. Even the lovely stroll we took through an ecological preserve was something I spotted in a brochure after I arrived, not a bucket list item I had planned in advance.

So when we ended up taking a detour to Sanibel Island, I innocently took a stroll only to encounter loads of people with buckets and walking with their eyes glued to the beach. As it turns out, Sanibel Island is considered by many to be the best shelling beach in all of North America! Even though I’m no expert, it was exciting to see so many beautiful shells and even some of the sea creatures that had washed ashore.

Sanibel Island Florida Shelling Travel Superlatives of 2017 To Inspire Your Next Adventure 20170125_132112 (2)Sanibel Island Florida Shelling Travel Superlatives of 2017 To Inspire Your Next Adventure

Favorite Getaway: Staying with Friends by the Beach

I could pretend I had some posh chalet in the mountains somewhere, but let’s be real, I’m not that fancy. The place that I spent the most weekend getaways in 2017? With friends by Bethany Beach in Delaware. It’s been a perfect haven and relaxed getaway on many a weekend, with great food and wonderful company. Thanks for hosting and for all the great experiences this year!

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Most Random Visit: Berlin Wall in a NYC Office Building

When I visited Berlin, Germany for a long weekend, I of course made it a point to see several sections of what remains of the Berlin Wall, including the open-air East Side Gallery. Across the ocean in New York City, the Berlin Wall was the last thing I expected to see in a random office building, and yet there are several panels that can be visited in the lobby for free!

Biggest Bucket List Item: Rock Climbing in Red Rock Canyon

Starting with my college years, plenty of friends have talked up Las Vegas as a site for gambling and debauchery. And the ones who really know me well touted the foodie scene there. But the biggest attraction for me has always been the rock climbing I’ve been hearing about for ages in the nearby Red Rock Canyon. My guided trip there was just as wonderful as I had imagined, with incredible scenery and a lot of fun on the rock.

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Best Travel Experience: Hitching a Ride on a Boat in Bermuda

I was excited at having bought the Bermuda-exclusive loquat liqueur at the Goslings store in downtown Hamilton, the Bermudian capital that was half an island away from my cruise ship. The feeling of accomplishment slowly melted into apprehension as I realized that because it was Sunday, the ferry turned out to be on a truncated schedule and the last one had already left back toward the dock where my cruise ship was anchored about 20 minutes before.

I was quite annoyed at this point – Why hadn’t I checked the schedule properly beforehand? Why didn’t I realize it was a sign taking a taxi into Hamilton from the beach was a bad idea when no one else was headed that way? – I probably should have seen the signs ahead of time, given that I’m an experienced traveler. But fortunately we had another day in Bermuda, so I wasn’t exactly in a rush. At least the cruise ship wouldn’t leave without me if I didn’t get back by a certain time.

I started running through possibilities in my head. There seemed to be a local bus station nearby, and many buses had passed through the main street downtown. Surely it would be cheap to take the route to the far side of the island, although the trip might take a while and who knows how long it would be before the next bus. A taxi was an option, but probably a $60 one. So it wouldn’t be a cheap mistake, but at least I’d make it back to the ship for dinner.

One consolation was that I wasn’t alone, there were actually 4 of us from the cruise strip stranded at the now-closed ferry terminal. But as possibly the most assertive one of the bunch, I was tasked with asking around and trying to figure out our best option to get back.

It was at this point that I noticed a boat crew at the far side of the dock that seemed to be cleaning up for the night. There was a decent chance they were locals and could hopefully point us in the right direction, maybe even let us know if buses were still running or if our best bet was to hail a taxi to get back.

I couldn’t tell you exactly what I said in my first thirty seconds of talking, but the guy who seemed to be the head of the crew approached as I was chatting with one of the deck hands and said, “Actually, we have to get this boat back over to the Dockyard for a tour in the morning, do you want a lift back?”

What?!? By opening myself up and asking strangers for help did I really just score all of us a free ride back to our cruise ship?

As long as you don’t mind loud music and will buy drinks on the way, you can ride back with us.”

Um, YES PLEASE.

The older couple in the group was a bit skeptical if this was some sort of scam, but this was not only super convenient and generous, the crew explained that this was what your typical everyday Bermudian hospitality was all about. Plus, they were headed that way anyway.

Within minutes we had dark-and-stormy’s in hand (the local cocktail) and were cruising through the harbor on a catamaran with music blasting. I would have called it the best private boat tour of my life, but it was just locals helping out some clueless tourists and letting loose at the end of a long work shift.

Along the way, the crew pointed out a few famous Bermudian houses on the water, but mostly we sang and danced together the whole way. We pulled up and docked just a short distance from the cruise ship, as the catamaran was part of an organized tour the next morning. And when we tried to pay for our drinks, they just shrugged and wished us well.

This is how close the catamaran got us to the cruise ship.
This is how close the catamaran got us to the cruise ship.

What were some of your highlights from the past year? Or your most memorable travel experience? Anything from my round-up that you’ll seek out in the year ahead? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Travel Highlights (Superlatives) of 2017 To Inspire Your Next Adventure

 

Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Impressions

Berlin is very different from other German cities I’ve visited, and at some moments does not feel like Germany at all. It has this young, industrial bustle, is teeming with hipsters, and embraces ethnic food and the latest trends. However, there are still moments when you feel like you could be in any European city and not Berlin specifically: walking along the tree-lined Kurfürstendamm for high-end shopping, or strolling the Alexanderplatz hunting for bargains with the masses at TK Maxx (yes, just like TJ Maxx).

Modern Berlin is a city of contradictions. It is both distinct and anonymous. I’ve heard it compared to Austin, Texas, which is a city in Texas that has such a different flavor than other Texas cities, and sometimes doesn’t feel like Texas. A pretty apt comparison, in fact.

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Berlin is both rule-following and rebellious. I was there when Germany beat Slovakia in the Round of 16 of the 2016 Euro Cup. The Germans went wild celebrating in their cars, driving up the main streets with German flags streaming out of the car windows and honking their horns for hours. But the cars also proceeded in a very orderly manner, taking great care not to block the second lane reserved for buses. And while the bus drivers who monitor tickets by hand and the U-bahn and S-bahn run like clockwork, I saw many Germans ignoring the rules – smoking on train platforms and drinking on board.

Oh, and the history. I thought I knew about Berlin during the Cold War, East and West Germany, the Berlin wall. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know until visiting Berlin. I think I was most surprised by everything I learned about the Berlin wall. I was not alive when it went up, although I remember watching the wall come down on TV. And I even visited the largest (unchanged) section of the Wall outside of Germany in the late 1990s when it was part of an outdoor display of the Newseum in DC. But somehow I managed to escape that time period without a coherent understanding of what the wall was and how it came into being.

The first “wall” was really just a wall of soldiers that appeared overnight in 1961. People went to bed one night with free passage to family and friends in the other sectors of Berlin, and woke up to a human barrier around East Berlin that was already in the process of being converted into a physical wall.

For me, understanding the suddenness of the shift helped to explain some of the desperation I read and heard about the various escape attempts from East to West Berlin: the twenty-something student who wanted to reunite with his parents, the 80-year old woman who wanted to join her daughter. Both perished in their attempts. Or the East German border guard who jumped the wall in the early days when it was just a bunch of barbed wire, captured in this iconic photograph. Although Conrad Schumann escaped to freedom, his defection haunted him throughout his life and he committed suicide nearly a decade after the fall of the Berlin wall.

Things to Do

As you can tell, the history of Berlin really captivated me. See below for my top picks for what to do during your visit (in order of preferene within each section):

Around Town

Walking Tour

There is so much to see and history to take in, so I found it hugely helpful to have a walking tour to orient me and explain the major sites on my first afternoon. I did a tour with Original Berlin Walks that I thought was fabulous (and did not require an advance reservation, which was a plus), although there are other highly-rated walking tours available.

TIP! The walking tours that have Western meeting points typically are listed 30-minutes sooner than the Easten meeting point because you spend the first half-hour traveling east together. Unless you’re nervous, about finding the spot for yourself, arrange your itinerary for the day to arrive at the eastern meeting point at the appointed time.

TIP! While there is a small discount for booking online in advance, there is an even bigger discount if you have the Berlin Welcome Card, and pay in person on the day.

 

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Holocaust memorial

This is an outdoor memorial, which I recommend experiencing first-hand, and there is also a museum on site that does a good job of conveying information in a way that makes you think, even if you’ve been to other Holocaust memorials or museums.

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Brandenburg gate

Icon of the city, and even more special to be able to visit it today since it was inaccessible while the Berlin Wall stood. You are likely to come across this during your visit, even if you do not actively seek it out.

Jüdisches Museum

Different from the museum at the Holocaust memorial, because it gives a window into Jewish life in Germany both before and after. Famous architect Daniel Libeskind designed some of the newer sections, and the temporary art exhibit upstairs was also very good when I visited.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

This was probably one of the least user-friendly museums I’ve ever visited, because the written materials are written in long-form in four languages and is very hard to follow and glean key details. Despite the super-long blurbs, it is very cool to see the memorabilia that has been accummulated in the private collection, especially of methods people used to escape from East Berlin, from the more well-known car compartments to the more obscure surfboards and hot air balloon.

Checkpoint Charlie

It is cool to see the place where this border crossing once stood, although the current checkpoint is a reproduction. Named “Charlie” because the checkpoints were named consecutively using the phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This third American checkpoint was the most visible while the Wall still stood.

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Neue Synagoge

Although this was once the main synagogue in Berlin, it has not been fully reconstructed. It is still stunning from the outside (it is modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain), and has a history of the Berlin Jewish community, including fun tidbits like the “well-known violin concert” given there in 1930 by none other than Albert Einstein.

Off the Beaten Path

Berlin Wall Memorial/Gedenkstatte Beliner Mauer

While there isn’t much of the wall itself left at this site, there is a moving set of poles marking the location of what by the end of its time was a much more elaborate barricade between East and West Berlin. The “Wall” really ended up being two different walls with empty space in between called “the death strip,” and this memorial marks many of the successful and failed attempts for those in East Berlin to escape. This is an open-air exhibit which will take you several hours to walk through and absorb the thorough written, audio, and video descriptions of this section of the wall. Most surprising to me was seeing a photo from when Martin Luther King Jr. visited the Berlin wall in the mid-1960s, even giving a speech on both sides of the wall. There is also a whole exhibit inside the local S-bahn Nordbahnhof stop about what happened to the metro system when the wall was up.

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East Side Gallery

This is an open-air exhibit of a very long section of the Berlin Wall that has been thoughtfully decorated by artists from around the world. Worth a trip, and you can visit at any time of day.  Check out this Photo Gallery of some of the most interesting sections.

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Sachsenhausen

This concentration camp is accessible by train from the city center, although it takes a while to reach. There are tours available either from Berlin or on site, although I found the audio guide quite useful during my visit. An important part of German history that I found very moving to see first-hand.

Amazing views

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Reichstag Dome

This iconic building that houses the German Parliament has a glass dome with an inclined ramp that is free to visit for expansive views of Berlin, although it does require advance registration. If you are booking early enough, there is the possibility of registering on-line, and guided tour registration may also be available online if you visit when Parliament is not in session.

TIP! If, like me, you are planning last-minute, you can register in person for the same day or next day in-person from 8am. While there is a small line right at 8am, by 8:20am or so there was no wait (and it can be up to an hour wait or more in the afternoon). Be sure to bring your passport or European ID card to sign up, they let in 100 people per hour.

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Fernsehturm (the TV tower)

You can buy an early-bird ticket, or just go on the early side to beat lines (and you’ll still get discounted admission if you have the Berlin Welcome Card). There is an indoor viewing window where you can walk around at your leisure and appreciate a fairly high-altitude view of all corners of the city. Like with the Reichstag Dome in-person ticket purchase, after the first 20-30 minutes of opening, you can get in without waiting.

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Berliner Dom

The Berlin cathedral is lovely to visit and in addition to housing some exhibitions and a crypt, there is also the option (which I recommend!) of climbing several hundred stairs to get up to the walkway outside of the dome for 360-degree views of the city and some exhilirating fresh air.

Best Bites

I ate really well in Berlin. Like, really well. And I don’t say that lightly. While I sampled my fair share of ethnic food, my best bites (breakfast aside) were mostly the local specialties:

Best Breakfasts

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  • Chipps

Chipps serves a variety of large portion breakfasts meant for people with appetites (like me), although there is the usual selection of pastries and yogurts for those looking for a more minimal meal. There >is also a vegan option for the bacon and sausage that accompanies some of the dishes, plus nice coffee and fresh juice options.

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  • Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers

    I had a wonderful Australian-style breakfast here – a flat white coffee drink with perfectly-seasoned avocado toast, and I got the addition of a poached egg. The pastries looked great as well, and while very centrally located, Father Carpenter’s is in a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating as well as the space indoors.

Best Street Food

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  • Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap This is *the* place for kebap, a very popular street food in Berlin. I got the “usual” version here, which comes with chicken. The bread is toasted perfectly, and the proportion of ingredients was just perfect down to the spray of juice from a lemon wedge to finish. Each kebap is made to order with care, and you will wait accordingly (1 hour when I went, so go early before usual mealtimes if you can). And be sure to go to the original at Mehringdamm, as the two locals I met in line told me that the other outposts closer to the main tourist areas are not as good.

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  • Hühnerhaus 36

    Serving Berlin’s typical fried chicken, I had a perfectly crispy and flavorful 1/2 hen with the spicy garlic sauce, which also comes with a choice of salad/fries/rice/bulgur. There is the street stand and the sit-down place across the street from each other, and they are Halal. This place is off the beaten path, although not terribly far from the East Side Gallery.

Best German food

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  • Zur Letzten Instanz

    One of the 10 oldest restaurants in the world (it is rumored that Napoleon ate here once), they have been satisfying hungry customers since 1621! But don’t come only for the history, this place serves up typical German fare done well. I don’t eat pork so I ordered the one fish dish on the menu, which was just phenomenal and came with the best sauerkraut of my life. And it wasn’t very crowded for lunch on a Friday.

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  • Marjellchen

    Although reservations are recommended, I didn’t reserve, but was able to eat at the bar. This is another spot with great typical German dishes. To drink, this is a great spot to sample the local specialty: Berliner Weisse beer “mit schuss,” with rot (red – raspberry) or grün (green – woodruff) syrup.

Best overall meal

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  • Restaurant Bieberbau.  This was the only restaurant where I made a reservation, since it’s off the beaten path and I didn’t want to arrive and get turned away. They serve high-level cuisine with amazing flavors and textures, but with helpful and friendly service, and incredibly reasonable prices. And it is not pretentious at all – my kind of place. The aperitif special the night I was there was a sparkling riesling with rose syrup and the bread basket came with red wine butter and also curry apple butter, just to give you an idea of the flavor combinations and creativity you’ll experience dining here. And you can get a half glass of wine at exactly half price of a regular one, so I got to have a lot of great sips paired with the various courses. A truly satisfying dining experience.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a couple more general tips for Berlin:

Berlin Welcome Card

Berlin is huge! It basically developed as two different cities when the wall was up, and then was reunited as one, so there is huge sprawl. Even with unlimited public transit travel, I walked a huge amount each day. I can’t imagine *not* using public transit very heavily as a tourist.

I bought a 5-day Berlin Welcome Card, and found that it was only slightly more expensive than just getting an unlimited transit pass for the same amount of time. Plus, with the Berlin Welcome Card, I received discounts for: my walking tour, going to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the Jüdisches museum, the Neue Synagogue, and Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

TIP! You can buy the Berlin Welcome Card ahead of time online.

TIP! If you don’t buy online, there are points of sale for the Berlin Welcome Card at both major airports. And if you buy at the airport, your initial public transit trip into the city will be included. Plus, the line was much shorter to get the Berlin Welcome Card than just a ticket for the bus.

TIP! Know in advance how many days you’d like the pass (2-6 days) and whether you want it for zones A-B for just the city or A-B-C, which includes the periphery like Potsdam.

Get a phone data plan

While I am often an advocate of sticking to WiFi connections and using phone GPS without data for navigating, I found phone data hugely helpful in Berlin. The city is huge, and if nothing else, active data is a helpful tool to navigate efficiently on public transit from one location to another.

Have you visited Berlin before? What was the highlight for you? And what was the most surprising part of its history did you learn during your visit? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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Berlin Germany Cheat Sheet - Tips, What to Do, & Where to Eat

How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

Solo travel can look like so many different things, and is one of the most rewarding things I have done as a frequent traveler. I love having a buddy (or several) to share my travel adventures with, but there is a totally different perspective and awareness that comes from taking a trip just for you. Most destinations have an abundance of organized activities as well as plenty of things you can do solo, so you really can tailor the trip to what is best for you personally, or most comfortable. And you can still eat incredibly well while traveling alone. Even though I’ve been a solo traveler for nearly two decades, I keep planning (and savoring) solo trips, and have now visited over a dozen countries on my own.

Below I break it down into my step-by-step process for how I plan my solo trips, whether it’s for a weekend or a month. Follow the process one step at a time, and before you know it you’ll be on your first trip on your own!

Planning…

Step 1: Pick the amount of time you’ll travel.

This sounds basic, but it’s hugely important. If this will be your first solo trip, you’ll probably want to keep it to a day or weekend, so you can get a taste for solo travel without feeling too overwhelmed or stressed with the planning. Sometimes the amount of time will be dictated by your available vacation time from work or a period of time in between trips already planned with other people. In any case, decide on something reasonable that fits with your free time, level of comfort, and budget.

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Step 2: Pick a destination.

This step can be done interchangeably with Step 1. Sometimes I block off time to travel and then pick where I’ll go & other times I have somewhere I want to visit and figure out how much time I have available to spend there. In any case, picking a destination is related to your free time, as you probably won’t want to venture too far for a weekend trip, but might spend 20 hours flying to go away for a month. Take into account how expensive a destination is (both to get there & once you arrive), whether you speak the language, and if there are enough things you’re interested in doing for the time you’ve set aside.

Step 3: Book transportation.

This step for me is always the point at which things go from me dreaming about a trip to it becoming R-E-A-L. If you book a flight in the US, you have 24 hours to change your mind, but most other US transportation options – and certainly international ones – are typically non-refundable or can only be changed with a hefty fee. So for me, booking my transportation to and from a place is when I feel committed. Figure out if it’s best for you to arrive by car, bus, train, or plane, look into economical options that work with your schedule. And of course, don’t forget to take a minute to run down my Travel Checklist for Booking Flights, most of which applies to bus or train transportation as well. Then just pull the trigger and book!

Let’s be real, people tend to be most terrified of this step, myself included. You may think it over for so long that there are no good cheap flight options left or you let your fear get the better of you and never actually make the plan. But take a second to think about it. At this stage, you’ve already decided where to go and for how long, so the hard part is over. Don’t think too much about it, and just book. Now you’re going on a trip!! And it’ll be great =)

Kayaking as the sun is starting to set.

Step 4: Decide how you’ll split your trip between time on your own vs. organized tours.

When I have a solo trip planned for anything longer than a weekend, I typically plan at least one formal tour. Not only is this a great way to get to know a place while hosted by locals or experts, it is a social activity that can be a nice way to break up time sightseeing on your own. I also use organized tours as a way to meet others, including (but not only!) other solo travelers. This is also your chance to decide how much time feels right for you to be traveling on your own. If this is your first solo trip, you might want to schedule some form of planned activity each day you’ll be traveling. Or every other day. Perhaps you like to explore new places at your own pace and will only schedule a single day activity for a week on the road.

This is your chance to be real with yourself about what feels comfortable and works for you. And the good news? There’s no wrong way to take a solo trip! Do it in a way so you don’t feel overwhelmed or in over your head. For me, if I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll book only a single tour – or even none at all. If I don’t have a lot of planning time, or will be too exhausted from a previous trip, I’ll slot in more activities in advance. You can get a better feel for what this balance might look like in the next section, where I share the details of previous solo trips I’ve taken. Of course, if you decide to not plan any organized activities ahead of time, skip straight to Step 5.

Step 5: Book accommodations.

The only reason I am putting this step after outlining your rough overview of your trip is because some organized tours or trips may involve overnights where you’re sleeping arrangements are taken care of (see more about my Thailand trip in the next section), so you’ll want to know which nights are not accounted for before booking where you’ll stay. Your style of travel may typically involve familiar chains or boutique hotels, but if you are traveling solo I’d also recommend that you consider booking accommodations where you can meet others easily, like a hostel. Many hostels offer private room options if you’re not interested in having a bed in a communal dorm room, and often will host other solo travelers who might be looking for a sightseeing companion for a day or afternoon. They are also great sources of information on local tours and excursions, and can often book these for you directly. Regardless of which type of accommodation you choose, be sure to run down my Travel Checklist for Booking Accommodations.

I urge you that even if your days are unplanned, to book accommodations ahead of time, so you know where you’ll be resting your head each night. Even if you’re a seasoned solo traveler who chooses to not book and leave it up in the air, at a minimum take a few minutes to search and do a reality check that there’s still decent availability on the nights you’ll be somewhere – not every destination has a wealth of places to stay or there may be a convention or special event in town you didn’t know about that has most places already booked up. In which case, you will probably want to go ahead and reserve accommodations in advance.

Step 6: Rent a car (if applicable).

Honestly, I tend to shy away from renting a car when I’m traveling on my own. Street signs, especially in a foreign country, can range from confusing to being displayed in a different alphabet from your own. And navigating can also present challenges, even if you have a data plan for your phone or have rented a GPS along with the vehicle. Personally I like driving in a strange place with a buddy, so one person can drive and the other help navigate, although I have rented a car on my own in more familiar locales. If you do go this route, be sure in advance that you’ll really be comfortable doing so, and also check out my road trip tips – some of these are Europe-specific but many apply to any time you’re renting a car or taking a road trip.

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Step 7: Figure out if there are any restaurants that you’ll want to reserve in advance.

Sometimes for me this step is quite quick, involving a cursory internet search to discover that I’ll probably want to stick to low-key places or that there are no “fancy” restaurants or local hot spots I really want to sample that would involve a reservation. In other cases, I’ll get caught up scouring many excellent options and reserve one or several places for dinner around any organized tours I’ve already planned. Again, specific to your level of comfort, you can eat street food for all of your meals, plan all your meals at sit-down establishments, or anticipate a mix of sit-down places and eating on the go. There are a great variety of restaurant types that are friendly to the solo diner, and of course you can pretty much always find a place to eat, even without advance planning.

Step 8: Do as much (or as little) additional research as you’d like.

For certain trips, I’ll spend weeks intermittently looking into sights to see and places I’d like to eat while I’m there. Sometimes for me this is flipping through a guidebook at the airport waiting for my flight, or during the train ride or flight itself. Or posting a plea on Facebook a few days beforehand requesting begging for recommendations from friends who have previously visited a certain destination. This is another step that is really up to you in terms of how much, if any, effort you put into it, depending on your comfort level and how much of your trip you’d like to be planned out in advance.

*NOTE: Regardless of your level of advance planning, still check out the “Before you go” section below for the essentials to definitely complete before your trip begins, regardless of how much other planning you’ve done ahead of time.

Details of actual solo trips I’ve taken!

I’ve given a detailed run-down of my trip planning for my week-long solo trip to Thailand in 2015, plus an overview of one shorter and one longer solo trip I’ve done to give you an idea of what your trip might look like – and how little planning it takes to flesh out an itinerary for a week away on your own.

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Berlin, Germany (long weekend)

There are an abundance of walking tours in Berlin, so while I didn’t buy a ticket ahead of time, I did research into the meeting spots and times for different options, and ended up having a great introduction to the city with an experienced guide. I also blocked off one day to visit the Sachsenhausen concentration camp, which has an audioguide and the option of an in-person guide as well. Then I left my other two days unplanned, although I did do advance research into restaurants to try and sightseeing options. You can find more details about my favorite spots and best Berlin meals in the blog post I wrote here.

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Thailand (1 week)

Steps 1 & 2: My solo trip in Thailand was actually my second time visiting the country, and I chose to spend a week there between the northern town of Chiang Mai and Bangkok, the capital.

Step 3: I knew I wanted to spend most of my time in Chiang Mai (which I had missed on my first trip), then went ahead and booked my flights to and from Bangkok, with a side round-trip flight to Chiang Mai.

Step 4: In terms of activities, I was interested in spending so much time in Chiang Mai to be able to do a 2-day meditation retreat and also some rock climbing. After looking into some options, I realized that I could do an overnight homestay as part of a climbing and zip-lining trip, so booked that as well. That was just enough organized activity, although I did meet another female traveler at my hostel who arrived a day before her travel companion, and we spent my first afternoon in town exploring Chiang Mai together.

I had two full days in Bangkok, and booked one organized activity there – a night tour of the city by tuk-tuk, including street food and sightseeing. I sought out this option after knowing from my previous trip both how hot the city can get during the day and also how difficult it can be at times to navigate between different neighborhoods.

Step 5: I booked a private room in a hostel in Chiang Mai for the nights I wasn’t away (2 of my excursions were overnight), and then reserved a bed in an all-female dorm in Bangkok (close to the MRT stop where the airport express arrived). Saving money on my Bangkok accommodation let me splurge on my meals there =)

Step 6: Nope, no rental car.

Step 7: I knew I wanted to eat at nahm in Bangkok, one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” so I made a reservation for my last night in town. Their tasting menu ended up being well-suited to the solo traveler, since there was a lot of choice across several categories of dishes with the portion size being adapted to the number of people at the table. And my meal was absolutely delicious, and good value compared to tasting menus in Europe, Australia, or the US since the prices were in Thai Baht, the local currency.

Step 8: I did a bit of additional planning about sights I had missed in Bangkok on my first visit, and spots to check out around Chiang Mai. My list ended up being broken down into “EAT” and “DO” sections, with some vague entries like “temples” and “get massages!” along with specific items, like visiting the Jim Thompson house in Bangkok.

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Mexico (5 weeks)

The part that was planned ahead of time was my time in each general area, as I did book a few flights within Mexico to get between different regions. I actually did pretty much nothing though in terms of planning organized tours in advance, although I did hire guides on the spot at several tourist attractions and joined a lot of day tours that I arranged through the hostels where I stayed. There were also several important religious celebrations taking place over my trip, so I planned to be in proximity to where I could celebrate on the pertinent dates.

Want more details on the nitty gritty of planning a solo trip? Something else you’re still unclear about that you’d like me to cover in a future blog post? Let me know in the Comments!

Before you go…

The amount of advance planning I do depends on all sorts of factors, from how I’m feeling about a trip to how much planning I think I need to do to get the most out of a destination. Your level of planning will probably vary as well from trip to trip, depending on how much free time you have, your motivation, and how important you think prior planning will be to your enjoyment when you travel. Regardless of how much activity planning and restaurant scouring you decide to do, there are some non-negotiables for me when it comes to solo travel:

Know how to get from your arrival point to your accommodation. Please, please, please don’t wait until after you’ve arrived to realize that you have no clue how to get from the airport or train station to your hotel. It’s much less stressful to have a plan in advance, and you can’t always count on having helpful information desks accessible (or with English-speaking staff on hand). Plus, one of the best ways to keep safe as a solo traveller is to know where you are headed – or at least look like you do – at all times.

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Send your detailed itinerary and a scan of your passport to a trusted friend or family member. It’s always good to have a copy of your travel plans with someone who is not traveling with you.  Especially if you go off on your own, like I did on the hike in Liechtenstein pictured above.  Hopefully it won’t need to be accessed, but it’s good to have someone with those details just in case.

Print hard copies of all of these details. Technology is wonderful, but it doesn’t always work when we need it most. Be sure to have your accommodation confirmation and directions on how to arrive there in hard copy, as well as a copy of your itinerary and a photocopy of the main page of your passport. I usually keep a copy in my purse and also in one of my carry-on bags so everything is duplicated.

Of course, while these three things are especially important for solo travel, they are not the only steps I recommend to prepare for travel. Check out my Pre-Trip Travel Checklist for more on how you can be best prepared by the time you arrive.

And for some additional safety tips to keep in mind before you go and as you travel, check out these Essential Tips from The Blonde Abroad (which are aimed at solo female travellers, but really good advice for everyone!)

On the road…

I have a few final words to the wise for the time you’re actually on your solo trip, so you can make the most of your time away:

Trust your instincts. You already know when a situation doesn’t feel quite right or something is just ‘off’ about a place. Or a person walks into your train car or sits next to you at a bar and you feel instantly on edge. Especially as a solo traveler, don’t be afraid to walk away from an uncomfortable situation, even if you’ll look silly in the process. Feeling silly for a moment trumps compromising your safety. Every time.

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Do what you *want* to do, not what you feel like you *should* be doing. This is a trap that a lot of travelers fall into, not just ones adventuring on their own. There is probably a list for your chosen travel destination of “must see places” or “must have experiences.” Those are great places to start your planning, but don’t feel compelled to do something just because everyone else is too. Sometimes my first hours in a new place have been walking the strip malls in the local neighborhood because that is all I felt up for doing, instead of heading to a top tourist attraction. Or passing up an outdoor adventure an hour-long bus ride away that sounded amazing to have a quiet day in town instead. It’s okay, even if the thing you feel like you should be doing (but don’t want to in the moment) is something you’ve already planned for.

Check in with yourself as you go. It’s a good idea to consciously touch base with your own travel desires every few hours or daily on your solo trip.

  • Are you feeling too planned and want more open time to wander?
  • Feel lonely and want to book an extra organized tour or guide at a specific sight?
  • Want some down time in a green space reading a book on your own?

Don’t be afraid to deviate from any previous plan you might have had – being able to change your plan at a moment’s notice is one of the advantages of solo travel. This is your chance to make adjustments so you enjoy your time even more!

 

Solo travel can sound intimidating, but really it’s an opportunity to customize a trip exactly to your own travel style and feelings in the moment. It’s a hugely liberating feeling to be able to make all of the travel decisions based on what you alone want, and is a great way to connect with those desires. And it also is not limited to being on your own every minute of every day. Solo travel for most is really a blend of organized activities and tours that take place with others along with sightseeing and wandering alone. So take it one step at a time and get out there!

What was the hardest part for you before you took your first solo trip? Or what things still frighten you, even after reading this step-by-step guide? I’ll address any concerns you still have personally.

And do you have any solo travel tips I haven’t already mentioned? Fire away in the Comments below!

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Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

One of the things that always surprises people the most about my frequent travel is how many trips I take on my own. Known in travel circles as “solo travel,” so many people have built it up as something to be feared, which requires a lot of preparation and know-how to be done well. But nothing could be further from the truth!

The advantages to traveling with a friend, romantic partner, family, or group of friends are well known. When traveling with others, there is always someone to bounce ideas off of, to keep you company on long train rides, and be your dining companion. There are of course advantages to traveling on your own as well (plus I think that I’m pretty excellent company!) so if you’ve never taken a trip on your own, make this the year that you do.

Why I savor my time travelling solo:

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Do what you want, when you want. I love traveling with others, but certainly one of the many advantages of solo travel is that you can do exactly what you want, when you feel like it. You never have to go to a tourist attraction or restaurant just because someone else really wants to, and there is no negotiation involved when deciding where to go or what sights to see on a particular day. Just decide what *you* would like out of your day.

Deals on accommodations. Especially in Europe, there are plenty of hotel rooms that are so tiny they are really only meant for one person. Because travelling solo is not nearly as common as traveling with others, single rooms can be available – and offered at a steep discount – even after other accommodation options are already sold out. This also applies to more budget-friendly places to stay, like hostels, which at the last minute may still have a room or a single bed left in a dorm accommodation.

People, especially locals, talk to you and open up more. Even if you’re an expat living in a foreign country it can be hard to make inroads with locals. It’s that much more challenging when you only have a few days or a week to explore a new destination. The good news – when you are traveling on your own, you are much more approachable and locals are far more likely to ask if you need help or go out of their way to offer advice. The New York Times had a great piece last year about ways strangers can make your trip better, and of course the top recommendation for engaging with locals is to travel alone, even if just for a day.

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Spontaneity. I love seeing something interesting down a twisting alleyway or following an unknown path to see where it takes me. When you’re traveling solo and something catches your eye, you can just go. It saves you the time of talking it over with your travel buddy and deciding to go together in a new direction or split up and meet up again later – and helps you to be in touch with your gut desires and the spontaneity that brings. Even if you have a crazy idea that you’d like to follow, you can just do it. If it doesn’t pan out, there’s no guilt for dragging along your unwilling friend. And often with the craziest ideas while you’re traveling, there is some huge up side you couldn’t have predicted in advance.

Catch up on reading. Sometimes when I take a trip with a friend, we spend all of our free and transit time chatting. Which is great, but I love that when I travel on my own, I get to catch up on my reading. I love books, and I always have several loaded onto my e-reader before a trip. I of course want to appreciate my surroundings and interact with locals and fellow travelers, so I don’t read constantly. But especially on airplanes, underground subways, or even just taking in the scenery at a nearby park, I like having the chance to relax and get lost in a good book. Plus, I often read books set in places that I’m visiting, so it’s just another way to learn about a new city or country, mixed in with seeing all the sights in person.

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Being “just one.” Even if something is ‘sold out’ or a restaurant is ‘fully booked’ there are often ways to squeeze in a single person if you ask. Or find one seat at a bar, even if it’s pretty packed. I have snagged a last-minute theater ticket because it was a single seat that no one else wanted. I’ve been placed at an awkward table at a restaurant in the corner by the bathroom that really only had one spot for sitting. And even squeezed in once at a table at a trattoria with a couple already dining there (after the owner asked their permission, of course). Which turned out to be really great, because we had a lovely conversation over dinner, and then we even ran into each other at a museum the next day . . . and it was like reuniting with old friends.

Time to reflect. I usually spend a lot of time planning before a trip and time after remembering how great it was, but I don’t always get the opportunity to reflect on my experiences during the trip itself. But I do know that I am far more likely to have time to reflect on my day, my travels (or anything, really) when I am traveling solo and have the time at a sit-down meal or strolling around to be alone with my thoughts. I do some of my best thinking and brainstorming traveling on my own, and you can often catch me jotting down the results of my reflections in a memo on my cell phone.

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Make adjustments on the fly. Does your alarm go off early for an ambitious morning, but you just want to sleep in? Or you’re wide awake at 5 am in the morning and feel like getting a super-early start to your day? Perhaps to watch the sun rise? When you’re traveling solo, you’re not messing up anyone else’s plans – so go for it!

 

Solo travel is a way to experience a destination in a new way, and also an opportunity to get in touch with who you are and what things you would choose to do if there are no competing opinions around. Traveling on your own is not just for single people or loners, it’s especially for people who usually travel with others. Even if you’re in a relationship or married. And the more you are open to interacting with locals and strangers, the richer your time away will be.

The best part? Solo travel is always tailored exactly to you. Make plans on your own and get out there!

What do you look forward to most when you travel solo?

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