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Travel Stories: Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Travel Stories: Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

The sun is starting to set over Ha Long Bay, one of the most picturesque spots of coastal Vietnam, with floating houses and local boat traffic intermingled with dramatic rock formations jutting out of the bay.

Floating Houses Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam DSC_0415

I’ve lifted my oar out of the water, and have paused for a moment, listening to the rhythm of the water lapping next to the kayak.

It should be one of the most peaceful moments of the trip, enjoying golden hour out on the bay. But instead, a deep panic is tightening its grip.

How It All Began

“Just perfect,” I had thought, as I made the booking in person the evening before. I like to rock climb when I travel, even though I don’t always travel with people who do. Luckily I was able to convince my travel buddy in Vietnam to come along for the full day of adventure – a morning of rock climbing followed by an afternoon kayaking around Ha Long Bay. For me, the perfect vacation itinerary.

The day started off typically enough. We boarded a boat with our guides and a large group, then split off based on which outdoor adventure came first. There were several activities available, and everyone basically mixed and matched different half-day components to enjoy.

The morning was picture-perfect as a group of us were dropped on a white sand beach overlooking the turquoise water, with rock formations towering overhead.

Beach on an Island Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam DSC_0437

The surroundings were absolutely breathtaking, and the hours flew by meeting fellow travelers and scaling the limestone. Even now, that morning in Ha Long Bay was some of the best outdoor climbing I’ve ever done in my travels.

Rock Climbing Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam DSC_0586

At mid-day the various groups returned to the boat for a communal lunch and some swimming in between the two halves of the day.

Setting Off Kayaking in Ha Long Bay

The afternoon of kayaking in Ha Long Bay involved a different mix of people than the first half of the day, and there were 7 kayaks full of people that set off.

Of course, what was a minor footnote at the time became critically important later in the afternoon. The rock climbing guide from the morning was not feeling well, and couldn’t go out with the afternoon climbing group. So the tour operator did the logical thing and had the ill staff member stay on the boat, and the original kayaking guide went with the climbing group instead.

Which meant that our kayaking group would be without a guide.

But it was simple enough: “Just keep turning to the left as you kayak, and you’ll get back to the boat.”

This made sense to all of us, so we grabbed kayaks and oars and set off into the sunshine.

The first few hours of kayaking in Ha Long Bay were glorious. It involved leisurely jutting back and forth ahead of one another as we took turns stopping off at random beaches on the many islands dotting Ha Long Bay, weaving in and out of the rock formations along the way.

Honestly, there was no clear left with how irregular it all was, but we were all making what was generally a counter-clockwise loop around the area.

And Then…

We were supposed to be back at the boat by 5pm to reconvene with the other afternoon groups and head back into town. So around 4:30pm, when there was no end or break in the rock formation in sight, what earlier had been a fairly spread out swath of kayaks started to cluster closer together to figure out where we were and how much farther there was left to go to find our way back.

At 4:45pm, with no left turn still available, we all started to simple paddle harder, assuming that we had been a little too leisurely earlier. And that if we just went a bit faster, we would shortly find the boat.

By 5pm, and the island’s edge extending far into the distance, I think we all realized that we were lost. And in trouble.

We didn’t know where we were.
We didn’t know where the boat was.
We didn’t see anyone else in sight besides our group of kayaks.
We didn’t know exactly how we arrived to the spot we were currently.
We didn’t know if it was closer to try and retrace our path or keep going forward.
We didn’t know if the boat was looking for us. Or waiting for us, even.

The only thing we did know, was that we had to stick together, and that we’d make the situation even more dangerous by splitting up as night was about to fall.

We also realized at some point around this time that we were only 6 of the 7 kayaks that had gone out, and were just hoping the other kayak had somehow made its way back to the boat, and wasn’t even more lost than we were – and alone!

Water sports Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam DSC_0459

The consensus was to continue on and hope that we came across the boat, or even someone (anyone!) who might be able to help

With each stroke of the paddle, the situation seemed more and more hopeless.

We didn’t know where we were. No one had a phone. And no one had much of a plan other than to keep moving.

At the beginning of what felt like a possibly dangerous situation, I was trying to stay calm and keep a clear head. With each passing minute though, the calm was being replaced by progressively more and more dire panic.

All of the worst case scenarios started to surface . . . We could be lost for days . . . How would anyone find us? . . . What if the weather turned bad?

We had minimal fresh water left and no food.

And my arms were feeling exhausted.

The several hours of morning rock climbing and the escalating pace of our paddling was weighing my arms down with each stroke. Somehow the adrenaline of the situation was carrying me forward, but it was starting to feel like my arms could not continue at this pace for all that much longer.

After what felt like an eternity of Herculean paddling effort – and was probably more likely a half hour or so – finally the horizon changed when a large freighter boat faintly came into sight in the fading light of the day.

Hope

Frantically we all started paddling toward the boat while also trying to dramatically wave our arms and oars to get the attention of someone on board. Luckily it was a pretty large vessel that was moving relatively slowly, so our paddling efforts allowed us to approach closer even as the boat continued to move, and finally get someone on the ship to notice us.

Of course, being well out of the touristy part of Ha Long Bay at this point, no one on board spoke any English (and no one in our group spoke Vietnamese).

The only thing that made what came next possible was that someone on another kayak had a waterproof digital camera, and I’ve never been so grateful for a piece of technology in my life.

He had taken a picture with the side of the boat in it earlier in the day. Which just so happened to also have the ship’s markings – with the name and phone number of the tour company emblazoned in bright yellow paint on the dark brown background. And thank goodness he had the clarity to think of this and pull it up!

Our boat, heading out for a day of climbing and kayaking.

Despite no common words or language, the boat crew fortunately could figure out that we were looking for the boat in the photo and to call them. And that calling the phone number might lead to someone who spoke Vietnamese and could help sort out what all of us were doing this far out on the water, with night falling rapidly.

The next few minutes were a blur, with my usual focus clouded by the all-encompassing anticipation of maybe, just maybe, being able to get back to our boat.

There were enough hand motions happening to indicate that this boat found our other boat by phone, and even that alone was a source of great relief. Even more amazing in that moment we somehow were able to figure out that our tour boat was still waiting on us.

And by a great stroke of luck, the giant freighter boat (that hadn’t even been headed that way!) was willing to take us back to our boat. Which otherwise would have been a very long paddle – probably lasting the approximately 4 hours it had taken us to reach this spot.

Savoring One of My Luckiest Travel Moments Ever

The freighter being so high off the water, there was no real way for us to board, but they tossed us a rope. With the panic subsiding, clear thought seemed to take over as we all methodically tied our kayaks to one another, and then to the sturdy-looking rope they had tossed to us off the back of the boat.

Secure and never more relieved, we flashed each other giant smiles as the freighter started to move.

All of the kayaks were bunched together, so as the boat picked up speed, we actually started to bang horizontally into one another. Which was entirely unexpected.

On another day, we might have considered this to be just another part of the adventure. But in this moment, still emotionally charged, the collisions presented what felt like a lethal danger. The last thing we needed was for one of the kayaks to get damaged or ropes to snap off, given the afternoon we’d had.

So we each pushed the end of our oars horizontally into the side of the adjacent kayak to create a consistent bit of space as we bounced in all directions in the wake of the boat rushing forward. Hitting the water, but no longer hitting each other.

Once we got our configuration stabilized, it all started to sink in. How close we had been to being lost and stranded. In the dark. Without anything to eat or drink. And along with those emotions, also reveling in the sheer joy that comes with relief of that magnitude after a crisis. Especially with the beautiful surroundings of Ha Long Bay at sunset rushing by.

Dusk colors as the sun sets Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam DSC_0615

One of the most serious terrors I’ve experienced first-hand transformed into being overtaken by a sense of deep, meditative calm. Which then morphed into joy and exhilaration as my adrenaline response faded and I could be again fully present in the moment. Feeling the breeze of being dragged along, the fun of bouncing on the water, and the absolute humility and gratitude at the mysterious ways of the universe that led to our improbable rescue.

Although this wasn’t my most recent time getting rescued by a boat after being stranded, this was definitely one of the most dangerous and terrifying situations I’ve encountered in all of my travels – even though it all worked out in the end.  (Including that 7th kayak not with us, who had never gotten lost, and made it back to the boat on time.)

Had things gone even just a bit differently, I am not exaggerating when I say that I might not be here to share this story.

Thinking Back On It Now

Even with all the chaos and panic, there was so very much I was grateful for that day:

We were 6 kayaks lost together.
Someone had a waterproof camera and had taken a picture of the side of the boat with the phone number.
That the camera still had battery charge to pull up the photo.
That we even found another boat to flag down.
That the freighter stopped for us.
And was willing to try and figure out what was going on.
And call.
Then was willing to go off course and tow us along.
That the original boat waited for us, even before they had heard from us about where we were.
That we were able to make it safely back into port.
Especially since unbeknownst to us at the time, tourist boats on day trips are not allowed to return to the bay after sunset.

Coming back after dark Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam DSC_0634 (3)

Which led to us – and everyone else out on a tour that day – ducking down as we re-entered the bay after sunset.  I would have happily done whatever crazy thing was being requested to ensure our safe return to dry land, and fortunately we made it back without being stopped by the Ha Long Bay harbor patrol.

I could have bent down to kiss the ground, I was so elated to finally step off the boat after such a long ordeal out on the water.

I couldn’t tell you any of their names, but I made some friends for life in that shared life-threatening afternoon.

There is this indescribable bonding that comes with shared calamity – especially while traveling. After a much-needed shower to restore a sense of normalcy and wash away the drama of the day, we came back together to relive it all, sharing a meal together at a local spot in town.

And of course back on land and with a WiFi connection at the guesthouse, we were finally able to pull up a map of where we had been.

It turns out that there was an inlet about 15-20 minutes into kayaking that was meant to be the left turn that would lead back to the boat. Once we missed that turn, it probably would have taken days of kayaking in Ha Long Bay to propel ourselves around the giant island that kept going and going and going.

It was so lucky that we encountered that other boat. By the time the freighter picked us up, we were only a small fraction of the way around the giant mass. Although of course we had no way of knowing that at the time.

I’m not sure if it was there when I took this trip back in 2012, but now the FAQ on the tour outfitter website warns that “Even with a compass, it can be extremely difficult to navigate among islands. For this reason, all of our kayak trips are guided.”

Lessons Learned

So, would I do it all again? Is there anything that I would do differently next time?

Honestly, I would still go kayaking in Ha Long Bay. But even if it was with a guide (like this trip was meant to be!) I would definitely be more prepared. Because really, anything can happen.

TIP! If you’re doing any water activities (or even just think you might), get a waterproof bag you can take with you.  this clear one that comes in many color options but is clear enough to see the contents.

TIP! Have a phone with a local SIM card with credit or an international plan to be able to call for help if you need to.

TIP! Always have the phone number of any tour company you use in your travels.

TIP! Use a map program to save any group meeting point to your cell phone.

TIP! Always have a backup battery for technology. For cell phones, I use and like READ MORE: 16 Travel Essentials for Every Kind of Trip

TIP! Check in at the halfway point before you need to make your way back to your tour group, to be sure there is enough time to return.

TIP! Trust your instincts! If a situation starts to feel dangerous, treat it that way and act accordingly. I talk about trusting that intuition in my post on Solo Travel, but really, it’s an important tip to keep in mind whenever you are on the road, alone or not.

Nothing is foolproof when you travel – and the unexpected can always happen – but a bit of preparedness will go a long way in keeping you safe.

Have you ever been lost in your travels? How did it turn out? Any things you would do differently the next time around? Any other tips I missed?

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Travel Stories -Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok

How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok

I hated Bangkok the first time I visited.

I’m the kind of person who goes to a new city, and even before I leave, am planning itineraries in my head for when I am able to return. Questions like “What city would you like to go back to?” always stump me because the honest answer is “Almost everywhere.”

In Bangkok, I spent my time thinking about how quickly I could escape the city and never have to come back.

Fast forward to when I was living in Milan, Italy and as part of a holiday raffle, won a prize that would have excited anyone else – a free round-trip flight to Bangkok!

Winning a Trip to Bangkok from Milan How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20141125_160018

Honestly, I felt a bit restrained in my excitement. How did I end up with the one gift everyone would want but me??

Quickly rationalizing in my head, I realized that a flight to Bangkok would be a good excuse to go to Hong Kong and celebrate Chinese New Year there. And that I could tack on some time in northern Thailand for rock climbing and other adventures that I had skipped on my first trip.

Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai, Thailand before returning to Bangkok
Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Even though I had to fly through Bangkok both coming and going – honestly? I debated spending any time in the city at all.

In the end, to avoid having multiple back-to-back flights to get back home to Milan, I decided to spend a minimal amount of time in Bangkok and would try to have a better experience the second time around.

Why I Hated Bangkok & Tips for What to Do Instead

Bangkok is not an easy city for many travelers, even experienced ones. It boasts its own special brand of chaos that is hard to handle and can be quite frustrating. Even more so if you’ll be traveling solo.

READ MORE: How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

Here I break down all the parts of Bangkok that drove me crazy on my first visit – and what to do instead so you don’t repeat my mistakes and have an enjoyable visit when you go. I even came away from my return visit liking the city.

It’s possible, I swear!

#1 | What Went Wrong with Taxis and Tuk Tuks

Trying to go somewhere? Transportation in Bangkok can be a challenge.

The drivers with orange vests are motorbike taxis

It was sometimes hard to hail a tuk tuk – the open-air mini transport common in southeast Asia – if you weren’t going to one of the most common tourist spots. Other than heading toward Khao San Road where backpackers tend to stay, drivers would often shrug their shoulders at your intended destination and simply drive off.

Taxi rides were equally difficult to come by. Even once after getting in the taxi – ably hailed with assistance from hotel staff – I got lost on the way (even with a street address written out in Thai!) because so many street names are identical or don’t go in order depending on which direction you’re traveling in the city.

Another time when I had Google Maps open on my cell phone in Thai, and an address marked off with a star, after minimal effort glancing at the screen, the taxi driver decided that it was too much effort to figure out the destination and he simply drove off without me.

What to Do Instead

Even though it doesn’t help all of the time, having verified locations with Thai writing and marked on a map ready to show the driver will increase your chances of hailing transport immensely. The one time I could not get a taxi to take me to my destination, a tuk tuk driver consulted the map on my phone and was able to go right there.

Orderly lines at the Skytrain station
Orderly lines at the Skytrain station

It also helps to stay somewhere that is close to the Skytrain or other public transportation, so that you are minimally dependent on tuk tuks or taxis to get around. I stayed right by a Skytrain station on my return visit and it was much easier to get around the city on my own.

Check out budget hotel deals in Bangkok HERE

TIP! If you are staying at a hotel or near a hotel, it is probably much easier to get a tuk tuk or taxi organized there. Staff are happy to hail one off the street or call.

TIP! There are also some taxi apps that were not available on my first trip but exist now – see the ‘General Travel Tips’ section below.

#2 | What Went Wrong with the Weather

Bangkok the first time around was quite uncomfortable with the heat. Even though it was December, it was quite hot visiting attractions during the day, and I was coated in a glistening sheen of sweat within minutes of walking outside.

What to Do Instead

The obvious solution, which did not occur to me on my first visit, is to simply do a tour of outdoor attractions at night, when temperatures are cooler. On my return trip, I did a fabulous Bangkok Night Lights Tuk Tuk Tour with Expique.

Wat Worawihan at night
Wat Worawihan at night
Wat Pho at night
Wat Pho at night

While I don’t always opt for organized tours when I travel, this small group tour was perfect. During the more moderate weather after the sun went down, tuk tuks whisked us around the city, and our engaging guide shared tidbits of information at every stop and shared a Thai local’s perspective.

Explore Tour Options with Expique HERE

In addition having a guide, taking the tour made transportation easy. The meeting point was at a Skytrain station and since there are dedicated tuk tuks for the entire tour, you don’t have to contend with the hassle of hailing a tuk tuk yourself between each attraction as you would have to do on your own.

Expique Tuk Tuk Tour How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150301_214009

TIP! You can also pay extra to have your tuk tuk transport you back to your accommodation at the end of the tour.

#3 | What Went Wrong with Money

You would not believe how many arguments ensued with taxi drivers about making change.

It goes something like this: I offer a bill sufficient to pay the fare. The driver holds up his hands helplessly explaining that he does not have enough change and asks if you have a smaller bill. As a tourist, it’s hard to tell if it’s a real predicament or if someone is trying to scam you.

What to Do Instead

While in some cases it may seem like someone trying to extort you into paying more, the reality is that most street vendors and tuk tuk or taxi drivers only have small bills. If you have anything decently large (500 Baht or more), they may legitimately struggle to make small change.

Even though 500 Baht is only around US$15 or 15, it is often too large a bill for vendors or drivers to accept or make change for.

Thai Baht How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand

Be prepared to over-tip or even easier – avoid conflict by having small bills on hand. Otherwise the Asian custom of saving face may prevail, and the driver in an effort to avoid conflict, will drive off without any money at all. Don’t put drivers in this difficult position.

TIP! Change out any large ATM bills at a currency exchange – this is easy to do at the airport or your hostel/hotel – or at a brick-and-mortar store like a 7-11 or supermarket if you make a small purchase.

#4 | What Went Wrong with Public Transportation

In many cities I’ve traveled around the world, local public transportation systems have pretty thorough coverage of the city center. In Bangkok on my first visit, this was not the case.

My hotel was not particularly close to a Skytrain station, and there were very limited options to get around without taking the long trek or struggling with other transport options. It was a hassle, and felt limiting in terms of exploring the city.

What to Do Instead

Stay near a centrally located Skytrain station!

TripAdvisor

As I’ve already mentioned, finding taxis or tuk tuks are not always easy, so having nearby access to the reliable transportation system dramatically changes your experience in the city. I was able to easily get to my accommodation from the airport when I arrived and had close access to get around Bangkok on my own once I arrive.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Of course, being central as well as near a Skytrain station ensures more access on foot as well, and there were several attractions and markets within walking distance.

Walking around Bangkok
Walking around Bangkok

For my second visit, I stayed at In A Box Hostel.

Find budget accommodations at In A Box Hostel HERE

Find other great deals on accommodation options in Bangkok HERE

#5 | What Went Wrong with the Crowds

When Bangkok gets crowded, it is really crowded.

My first visit was over New Year’s Eve, and the city was completely packed during the holiday period. Like other cities around the world, Bangkok has a large fireworks display that attracts a lot of tourists looking to celebrate somewhere memorable.

Traveling during a holiday period also meant overwhelming crowds and lines at tourist attractions, with most people heading in similar directions to the most popular markets and sights around town.

Wat Pho during the day. Not pictured: the immense crowds below.
Wat Pho during the day. Not pictured: the immense crowds below.

What to Do Instead

First, the Bangkok Night Lights Tuk Tuk Tour with Expique that I mentioned in #2 above was a great way to experience the city and sights minus the crowds. I wish I had known about it on my first visit.

Explore Tour Options with Expique HERE

Bangkok also boasts also lesser known but equally amazing tourist attractions, like The Jim Thompson House. Seek out more sights that are off the beaten path to experience Bangkok in a more relaxed way.  Or visit during the off season.

Museum dedicated to the American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry before his mysterious (still unsolved) disappearance in Malaysia in 1967
Museum dedicated to the American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry before his mysterious (still unsolved) disappearance in Malaysia in 1967

General Travel Tips for Bangkok

Of course, compensating for all of the typical first-time visitor mistakes won’t be enough to keep you safe and happy in Bangkok all on their own.

Most of the tips listed below are general city smarts, although some are specific to Bangkok and Thailand.

Here are some more tips for when you go:

Plan to haggle.

Take at least half the price off the initial offer from any vendor when you make your counteroffer, but be kind when reaching an agreeable price.

Keep valuables secure.

Especially with all the motorbikes zooming around, the threat of a snatch-and-grab for your purse, camera, or other valuables is real. Be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables secure and out of reach of any rapidly passing vehicles, especially motorbikes.

Mid-day traffic

Watch out for scams.

The most common scams are people telling you either that “tourist attractions are closed for official reason X” or that there are “no restaurants are in that direction” – and then re-directing you to their friend’s jewelry store or overpriced tourist restaurant.

At tourist attractions, scammers may even be wearing official-looking badges!

Also, don’t buy any gems or jewelry or tailored suits unless it is from a reputable store someone reliable has vouched for. These are common products that many scammers target.

Be Savvy with each Transit Option.

Tuk Tuks. Be sure to negotiate a price before you get in and don’t pay until the end of your trip when you have arrived at your destination.

TIP! It helps to ask at your hostel/hotel what the approximate price should be before hitting the streets, so you can have confidence with your negotiations.

Peering out at the brightly colored taxis
Peering out at the brightly colored taxis

Taxis. Be sure you are running on the meter, and then track the route on your phone to be sure you’re being taken the direct way. If the driver refuses to run on the meter, leave the vehicle and find a different taxi.

Apps. Uber and GrabTaxi are great alternatives to hailing a taxi off the street.

TIP! If you plan to hail taxis with the apps, buy a local SIM card or be sure your home country’s data plan will work.

Boats. I didn’t realize that boats were part of public transit until late in my first visit. It’s a great way to get between many places most directly.

Practice good Buddha etiquette.

Buddha How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand DSC_0164

Don’t sit with your feet facing the Buddha or take any pictures where you are higher than Buddha. Even if it’s sweltering, having something lightweight like a scarf or cardigan to cover up. And remove hats and shoes before entering a temple.

Explore local cuisine.

Street Food Vendors How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150302_162209Street Food Chatuchak Market How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150301_145229

Gorge yourself on street food, especially at Chatuchak Market on the weekend. Many dishes come as a series of little bites, so easy to sample many different items from different stands, whether you’re at a market or just strolling around the city.

You’ll also see sidewalk cafes that have tables to sit-down, but are basically full restaurants where all the cooking happens on the street!

Tasting menu for one at nahm
Tasting menu for one at nahm

And of course, Bangkok has great upscale and fine dining spots. But what you may not know is that they are likely to be way more affordable than comparable spots at home. As a solo traveler, I was pleasantly surprised at how many dishes I was able to sample off tasting menus, like the one at nahm, on my return visit.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Take a cooking class.

Cooking Class at Silom Thai Cooking School How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand DSC_0188

Using a large mortar and pestle to grind green curry paste.
Using a large mortar and pestle to grind green curry paste.

I don’t always take cooking classes when I travel, but it is a great approachable way to learn about the ingredients you’ll find at Thai markets and how to turn them into delicious dishes. I still use what I learned at a cooking class with Silom Thai Cooking School in Bangkok to cook Thai dishes at home regularly.

Find Silom Thai Cooking School Reviews & Booking Information HERE

Treat yourself.

Foot Massage How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand

Massages in Thailand are ridiculously cheap. I found my favorite spot on my last visit by looking at reviews close to where I was staying and found a great, local spot.

Outside of fancy hotels and spas you’ll spend a mere US$5 or 5 for either an hour-long foot massage or full body massage.

TripAdvisor

Obviously there are a lot of great reasons for visiting Bangkok and Thailand, and yes, I recommend that you visit. However, having a great time is not as easy to do as it might be in some other places you’ve visited.

So keep your travel savvy heightened when you go and follow these tips – and you’ll have an amazing time.

Happy travels!
Lana

Have you ever been to Bangkok? Did you enjoy your visit? Any other tips that I missed?

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How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand BuddhaHow to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand National Museum

Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Happy new year!

This year is starting off in an unusual way for me – it’s January and other than a weekend trip by train to New York City, I don’t have a single trip planned yet.

Which means I’m in as much a need of some travel direction as everyone else who hasn’t made any big travel plans for the year ahead.

For my top travel destinations to recommend for 2019, I’ve included a mix of locations hosting special events worth seeking out and also some new, not-too-overrun spots to check out. My past lists have mostly focused on countries, but this year’s list has a few specific cities and sites as well.

And for the first time, it’s divided into sections: New Recommendations for 2019 & Previous Recommendations I’m Highlighting. With some great spots I’ve never featured before and also some previous destinations that are especially great to consider this year.

Without further ado, I present – in alphabetical order – this year’s top 6 new travel picks:

Berlin (Germany)

Berliner Dom Cathedral Berlin Germany Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0689

If you’ve never been to Berlin, the first image of the city that may come to mind is a view of the wall coming down. Which is exactly what the city commemorates this year – the 30th anniversary of reunification. The Berlin Wall did not fall until November of 1989, however there will be a lot of special exhibits and events throughout the entirety of 2019.

Even separate from the historical significance this year, Berlin is such a cosmopolitan city that it is a great destination anytime.

While plenty of museums focus on the Wall, there is a wealth of other museums like you’d find in any other capital. Excellent food options abound, including many ethnic restaurants, and like any good German city, there is a great beer. Oh, and as you’ll see in the Cheat Sheet below, no shortage of beautiful rooftop views of the metropolis.

READ MORE: Berlin Cheat Sheet

READ MORE: Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Cambodia

Cambodia is best known for the Angkor Wat temple complexes, which was the main draw when I visited. For me it was one of those places (like Petra in Jordan) that really exceeded expectations. Don’t shortchange yourself and plan to spend at least 2-3 days there exploring, including areas outside of town and closer to nature like Kbal Spean. Plus, the town of Siem Reap keeps developing, with more options every year for exploring local culture and sampling traditional Cambodian cuisine.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ3aRGHHG2l/

Of course, Cambodia has a lot more to offer beyond its most famous attraction, with plenty of notable cities, beaches, nature, and wildlife areas throughout the country. As most of the tourism centers on Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, you’ll have more relaxed experiences in capital Phnom Penh, in smaller towns, and along most of its coastline.

Chile

Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Did you miss the total solar eclipse in the US in 2017? I saw the partial eclipse from the roof of my office building, but after hearing others’ accounts of witnessing the complete darkness (or totality), I definitely want to see that for myself. In July of 2019, there is another total solar eclipse coming this time to South America, and many consider Chile to be the best viewing spot. If you’d like to go, now is the time to plan for it.

Georgia

The country of Georgia is probably the item that has been highest on my bucket list for the longest, without me actually having visited yet. So, why go? Like many former Soviet republics, a lot of its wonders were hidden from most of the world during the second half of the twentieth century, but there is so much to entice tourists to this nation bordering the Black Sea.

Georgian Wine Flight from Georgia at Supra Restaurant Washington DC Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180303_201252

Georgia has an 8,000 year (!!) history of winemaking, the longest of any country. Once known as the “Tuscany of the Soviet Union,” for decades Russia was Georgia’s main wine consumer, but in recent decades since the break up of the Soviet Union, its wine is more readily available to everyone else. There are incredible monasteries to check out, many of which also produce wine. And like any good wine culture, the food is also amazing.

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Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC
Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC

I recently enjoyed Georgian food and wine at a local restaurant, and I’m even more obsessed than before!

Norway

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Even if you’ve never been to Norway, you’ve probably heard about its dramatic fjords and natural beauty. Sure, you can be a tourist and stick to the cities, but this really is a destination suited to a traveler who enjoys the great outdoors. In summer, boat cruises in the fjords abound. On land, whether its taking a funicular up to enjoy some sweeping views, or hiking up to the same spot, it is stunningly beautiful to take in. In winter, there is snowy exploring, from seeing polar bears in the wild to a chance at viewing the Northern Lights.

Like the rest of Scandinavia, Norway is probably a bit pricey compared to where you currently live, however if you’re planning on a lot of hiking your costs can be kept pretty reasonable. Plus, there are many discount air carriers that go, so transport costs can be quite affordable as well.

The up side of Norway for tourists – like any Scandinavian destination – is that the country is quite safe and English is widely spoken.

Norwegian Waffle Bar Barista Bergen Norway Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180929_152304

The biggest surprise for me on my recent visit was the food. There are the fun, heart-shaped Norwegian waffles and some upscale, Michelin-starred options in the major cities, especially the nature-adjacent oil city of Stavanger.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

TIP! Just be conscious of the seasons when you plan your trip, as the warm period is pretty limited to June-August, depending on where exactly in Norway you’re headed.

(Any City) USA

It used to be that America’s smaller cities did not have much to offer the well-traveled visitor, but I’ve noticed quite a change in recent years. With restaurant trends toward locally-inspired products and more and more people identifying as “foodies,” even off-the-beaten-path cities can be excellent travel destinations with ample delicious dining options for a weekend of exploring.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised myself in places like…

Boise, Idaho

Charlottesville, Virginia

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQmk07grgO/

Detroit, Michigan

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ9XSrjHLPk/

I hear great things about…

Asheville, North Carolina
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

And there are plenty of other American cities out there with increasingly more to offer any tourist, and I always find it fun to explore places before they become too popular with other travelers.

READ MORE: How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know about Detroit Before You Visit

This year’s list of new spots is shorter than in previous years, but that’s because so many of my past recommendations are still so timely.

Here are 5 of the destinations I’ve featured previously that are also excellent choices for 2019 travel:

Australia

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This country/continent has been a great value destination recently and is even more so for the coming year. There has been a recent further dip in currency, which is bad for my bank account, but great value for travelers who’ve been hesitant about visiting due to cost.

READ MORE: 10 Things to Know about Kangaroos Before You Visit Australia

READ MORE: The Best Tour of the Sydney Opera House

READ MORE: 12 Things to Expect on a Visit to Perth

READ MORE: Best Eating While Camping in WA’s Southern Forests

Belize

Belize Mayan Ruins Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0786

This Central American gem from the 2018 list continues to be one of the safest and easiest (English-speaking!) travel options in that part of the world.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons to Make Belize Your Next Travel Destination

READ MORE: Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave

READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know about Belize Before You Visit

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein Castle Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0545

This micro-nation (from the 2017 list) is celebrating its tricentennial – its 300th anniversary! – this year and will also have a host of special events taking place like some of the other destinations above. It’s an easy add-on if you’re already planning to visit Innsbruck (Austria), Munich (Germany), or Zurich (Switzerland).

READ MORE: Visiting Liechtenstein: A Perfect Weekend Getaway

Oman

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat Oman Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0739

This is another 2017 list pick that is already popping up on many other travel lists this year and continues to be a hot spot for discovering an authentic slice of the Middle East.

READ MORE: Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

READ MORE: Ways Hospitality in Oman Will Wow You

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Why a Road Trip Is The Best Way to See Oman

Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

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Bulgaria made my 2017 list of Top Travel Destinations, and it’s making a return appearance because my favorite city there, Plovdiv, has been designated a 2019 European Capital of Culture. Not only is it an ancient Roman city with plenty of ruins to explore, food in Plovdiv is delicious, and some of Bulgaria’s excellent wine country is nearby. Take advantage of the area especially catering to tourists and providing countless special events by visiting this year.

READ MORE: 11 Incredible Reasons to Visit Plovdiv, Bulgaria

READ MORE: Best Light Shows Around the World

Certainly there is no shortage of amazing destinations to seek out, regardless of what kind of trip you’re after. What I find to be the most important thing is to make a plan for a year of travel early on, so the months don’t slip by without taking a trip.

Get inspired. And then get out there!

See all of my past annual travel destination recommendations here:

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

READ MORE: Top 10 Travel Destinations for 2017

I still stand by them all.

Happy travels in the new year, everyone!!

What destinations are inspiring you for 2019 travel? Anywhere I missed that would be a great destination this year? What travel do you already have planned for 2019? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top Travel Destinations of 2019 pinkTop Travel Destinations of 2019 yellow

Travel Bucket List: Best Light Shows Around the World

Travel Bucket List: Best Light Shows Around the World

I didn’t necessarily set out to see some of the most renowned light shows around the world, it just sort of happened.

I first knew that I’d write this blog post when I was visiting Dubai late in 2016 not long after a visit to Singapore, two of the more famous places to see light shows on a grand scale. And that was after another memorable light show I took in earlier that year.

But something was missing.

VEGAS.

Las Vegas, Nevada is one of the more famous places in the world to catch a light and fountain show on a grand scale, and is well visited by Americans and foreigners alike. I just hadn’t been. Yet.

With my recent trip to Las Vegas late last year, I feel like I’ve now completed the main places you can enjoy the collective entertainment of the outdoor spectacle that is the light show.

And the best part?

All of these are FREE and open to the public.

Many of them even have fountains putting on a show with colored lights and music. And all are worth seeking out when you’re on the road!

Best Light Shows Around the World

Barcelona, Spain

Image via Pixabay
Image via Pixabay

I was debating including this one on the list, but it is beloved by so many and the only spot on this list in Western Europe, so here it is – the Magic Fountain of Montjuïc. This is a comprehensive light display with a wide range of colors and fun, themed medleys to go along with the show, that both children and adults can appreciate. Showtimes can be found HERE.

TIP! The Magic Fountain only runs on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings (Wednesday – Sunday in summer), so plan your visit accordingly!

     READ MORE: How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

Dubai, UAE

Dubai Fountain Dubai Mall UAE Best Light Shows Around the World DSC_0060Dubai Fountain Dubai Mall UAE Best Light Shows Around the World DSC_0064

If you’re visiting the Burj Khalifa, world’s tallest building, you’ll already be up close and personal for the record-breaking show at the Dubai Fountain that you can view with the looming skyscraper as the backdrop. The nuance of the choreography of the fountains is mesmerizing and the shapes and light are quite the spectacle. Most shows take place during the evening hours, every 30 minutes. Details about the relatively new paid viewing platform and exact showtimes are HERE.

TIP! Viewing spots fill up quickly so get there early to stake out a good vantage point on the show.

     READ MORE: Top 10 Things to See & Do at the Dubai Mall (That Aren’t Shopping!)

Hong Kong

Image via Pixabay
Image via Pixabay

The Harbour at night

The Symphony of Lights in Hong Kong only runs once a night at 8:00pm, but it is worth seeking out because it involves over 40 buildings across Victoria Harbour! There is also music to accompany the show, which you can hear live at two designated spots or you know, listen on your phone because there’s an app for that. I enjoyed catching it outdoors with the live music at the Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) waterfront, which has the same communal feel you’ll get at the other light shows around the world.

TIP! You can also watch the show in all directions by taking a ride on the Star Ferry across the Harbour during the show.

     READ MORE: How to Make the Most of Chinese New Year in Hong Kong

Las Vegas, Nevada, USA

Bellagio Fountain Las Vegas Nevada Best Light Shows Around the World DSC_0317Bellagio Fountain Las Vegas Nevada Best Light Shows Around the World DSC_0318

You’ll have plenty of chances to see the Fountain Show at the Bellagio, which repeats multiple times every afternoon and evening, with different choreography and musical accompaniment. Although the Bellagio Fountains perform more often than the other light shows on this list, the length of each show is shorter – typically under 5 minutes for the length of a single song. But there is nothing like the rush of being close to the power and force of the fountains during the show, which can impressively shoot jets of water nearly 500 feet (over 150 meters) into the air!

TIP! If you want to see the show more than once, aim for an evening time when it repeats every 15 minutes.

TIP! Stand a bit to one of the sides for the best angle on the show and if you’re close be wary of the spray when the wind catches.

Plovdiv, Bulgaria

Singing Fountains Plovdiv Bulgaria Best Light Shows Around the World 20160826_221312 (2)Singing Fountains Plovdiv Bulgaria Best Light Shows Around the World 20160826_221743 (2)

This is probably the least well-known town on this list, but one with an incredibly impressive and lengthy light and fountain show that kept me mesmerized for a good part of the evening. Known as the Singing Fountains, the water and light show that ensues does not disappoint. Plovdiv has also been named a European Capital of Culture for 2019 and CNN thinks it will be the next big European destination, so get there soon before the rest of the crowds do!

TIP! The Fountains only run on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings, so plan your visit accordingly!

     READ MORE: 11 Incredible Reasons to Visit Plovdiv, Bulgaria – in pictures!

Singapore (Gardens by the Bay)

Gardens by the Bay Singapore Best Light Shows Around the World 20161106_195922

The ‘trees’ of Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay have solar cells to gather power during the day to fuel each night’s light and music spectacular. Showing twice nightly at 7:45pm and 8:45pm, I only caught this my last night in town – had I been earlier, I would have come back every night of my trip! The musical theme rotates every two months, and as someone admittedly obsessed with live theater and musicals, I was lucky enough to visit when the show was Broadway-themed:

Singapore (Marina Bay Sands)

Image via Pixabay
Image via Pixabay

Marina Bay Sands Hotel Singapore Best Light Shows Around the World 20161103_200649

You may know the Marina Bay Sands Hotel in Singapore more for its iconic rooftop infinity pool, but the light show there is just as impressive – and open for all. There is some serious technology involved in creating the Spectra Light and Water Show here nightly, and it is so massive it can be seen from high vantage points all over the city. It is also one of the longest shows on this list, providing 15 minutes of color and wonder.

     READ MORE: 11 Ways Singapore is Like Hong Kong – And Why You Should Visit Both!

Light Shows to Check Out Next

Of course, this is not an exhaustive list, and now that I’ve enjoyed so many, more light shows are definitely on the horizon for me. Also on my radar for future travel:

Haifa, Israel

Okay, so this one doesn’t even exist yet, but a light show is coming soon to this city on the Mediterranean. I was less than impressed with the nightlife options in Haifa when I first visited nearly 20 years ago, and this latest investment is in part to extend the evening entertainment options in the city. This is planning to launch in late 2018, so stay tuned!

     READ MORE: Insider Bucket List – Top 20 Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

I didn’t even know this one existed until I recently saw a photo on Instagram! Another Asian metropolis joins the ranks of Hong Kong and Singapore in the race to outdo one another when it comes to their city light spectaculars. I’ll definitely seek this one out the next time I’m in Asia.

What light shows have you seen around the world? Which ones stand out most? Any that are missing from this list? Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Travel Bucket List - Best Light Shows Around the World

How to Order and Eat a Typical Singapore Breakfast

How to Order and Eat a Typical Singapore Breakfast

Whether you think breakfast is the important meal of the day (or not), it is certainly my favorite. I’d just as soon have breakfast for dinner, or craft an elaborate weekend brunch that is my only meal before dinner rolls around. When I travel, eating breakfast like the locals is one of the ways I immerse myself in the culture of a place.

In general Singaporeans tend to stick to savory breakfasts like other nearby Asian countries, and you’ll see people slurping noodle soups (like pho in Vietnam), eating congee (in the Chinese style), or picking up rice dumplings steamed in banana leaves (like Thailand), and everything in between. But there is only one “Singaporean” breakfast that I came across – basically a delicious variation on the all-familiar eggs, toast, and coffee. Thanks to a bit of jet lag I wasn’t hungry my first few mornings, but once my appetite arrived, I could not get enough of Singaporean breakfast and only hope I’ll be able to somewhat replicate this at home someday.

Here are the essentials you need to know:

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1. Coffee (or Tea), aka Kopi (or Teh)

Singaporean coffee lacks the bitterness you may be accustomed to. Why, you ask? Because the beans are roasted in butter! And what was hugely surprising for me is that the brewing method is the same as one I just discovered this past summer for the first time, the Costa Rican chorreador. It’s basically a sock-shaped bit of cloth suspended from a metal ring that can rest on a pitcher. The grounds are placed inside, and then boiling water is poured over top for brewing. The result is a robust coffee flavor that is strong in small doses – in fact, some of the breakfast spots only serve one size of coffee.

As with anywhere, there is also a lot of coffee customization that you can get with each cup. Not only hot vs. iced, but the traditional method for serving, if you ask for just “kopi” you’ll get coffee with condensed milk, as you would in Vietnam. The main other options are “kopi-C” with Carnation milk or “kopi-O,” black coffee. For any of the above you can add the word kosong to the end of your order to request no sugar. For more of the nuances of ordering coffee in Singapore, check out this Serious Eats post.

With coffee this good, I didn’t have tea out once. Although it is definitely available if that is your preferred breakfast beverage, and can be ordered in the same variations you would do for coffee.

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2. Kaya toast

I probably don’t need to explain what toast is, but kaya is such an excellent accompaniment. A coconut-based spread, it is typically served on toast with a pat of butter, giving some flavor and sweetness without being overwhelming. Kaya is made with coconut milk, eggs, sugar, and flavored with pandan, a local plant used as an aromatic in many types of Asian cooking. Of course, the flavor is all in the balance of ingredients and texture.

My favorite kaya, hands-down, was the fresh version served at Killiney Kopitiam. If you’re looking to take a jar of kaya home from here, purchase it at the end of your visit as their kaya has no preservatives and will expire within 3-4 weeks. (And if you’re going to Australia after like me, since it contains eggs you probably can’t even bring it with you, sorry.)

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3. Soft-boiled eggs There’s actually no need to specify the cook on the eggs that come with a Singaporean breakfast, as they only come one way. Most places I went gave you the eggs still in the shell, and it was up to you to crack them into the bowl. Others gave you a bowl that already had the two “half-boiled” eggs nestled inside.

TIP! I didn’t always do the best job of cracking my eggs and sometimes broke a yolk. The way I saw locals doing it seemed to work well: cracking the wide middle of the egg against the table and cracking it into the bowl (the way you would if the egg was still raw). The typical condiments to make the eggs extra-savory to contrast with the sweet kaya toast (and possibly sweet coffee as well) were ground pepper to sprinkle on top & soy sauce to pour into the bowl. Locals tended to slurp the eggs out of the bowl, while I preferred to break the yolks and enjoy it one small spoonful at a time or with the toast dipped inside.

20161105_123911 Where to Find Singaporean Breakfast I sampled Singaporean breakfast at what are probably the top 3 local chains. You’ll be able to find one of these nearby wherever you stay in Singapore:

Killiney Kopitiam Kopitiam means coffee house, and while the coffee was delicious here, I was blown away by the kaya toast at their original location on Killiney Road. And if you’re looking for one last breakfast, there is a Killiney branch in the upstairs 24-hour food court at the airport, although there’s usually a bit of a wait as they still grill the toast fresh for each customer.

Toast Box I waited in line with a lot of young professionals, as it seemed relatively easy to order takeaway breakfast. The one I visited was so busy I even had one of those light-up buzzers to alert me when my toast was ready.

Ya Kun Kaya Toast This was the one spot where my eggs were already in a bowl when they were served, so the least assembly was required. Plus, it was a bit cheaper than Toast Box and included quite a large portion of toast.

What breakfast have you enjoyed so much that you then tried to replicate it at home? Singaporean breakfast will definitely be my next experiment!

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How to Order and Eat Singaporean Breakfast

8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore

8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore

Singaporeans are all about the food! Many say that eating (and arguing about the best restaurant or hawker stand for a particular food) is a national pastime, making Singapore a great foodie destination or perfect for anyone who just loves to eat. Singaporeans take their food pretty seriously, which you can get a bit of a sense of from one of my top books to inspire travel. Of course you’ll understand much better when you enjoy the delicious result that comes from a culture that is so culinarily inclined.

This also means that when you search the internet for what foods to try while you’re visiting Singapore, you’ll have the experience that I did – finding website after website with suggestions of specific dishes, some with lists of 30 items or more. Unless you’re moving to Singapore, you’ll need a much smaller list of typical dishes to reasonably be able to sample during your visit. Even more so if you’ll only have a layover to explore. But not to worry, over my week there I worked my way through a ‘To Eat’ list and am now sharing with you my top foods to seek out while you’re there. Of course, this is all in consultation with my friends (including some native Singaporeans) who were generous enough to take me around and make sure I ate well during my visit. Which seems to be the very serious responsibility of any Singaporean host: making sure the guest eats well.

The culinary landscape in Singapore is focused on a lot of hawker stands, meaning open market areas with plenty of food stalls, each with one or a few specialties they’ll serve. For many of the dishes I mention below, you could enter nearly any market in Singapore and find a tasty version. There are also plenty of sit-down restaurants that will provide longer dining experiences, and of course be just as delicious.

Here is a doable Foodie Bucket List for your time in Singapore:

Carrot Cake

Carrot Cake Singapore 20161101_212658

This Singaporean specialty does not resemble the moist orange cake with cream cheese frosting in the least. Carrot cake in Singapore is closer to the radish cake you may be familiar with from eating dim sum or yum cha. It comes two ways: white and black. The white version is savory and fried with egg like an omelette, while the black version is sauteed with soybeans and somewhat sweet like the Thai noodle specialty pad see ew. I didn’t want to have to choose, so I ordered from a hawker stand where I could get both versions on the same plate. Which did I like better? I couldn’t decide, so alternated my bites between the two.

Where I enjoyed it: Telok Ayer market, close to the Marina Bay Sands hotel and Gardens by the Bay, although I later walked past some great looking versions of carrot cake in Chinatown as well

Char Kway Teow

Many countries have some sort of peasant food dish that packed a lot of calories into a small plate, ideal for utilizing leftovers and keeping manual laborers well fed. This rice noodle stir fry dish is the Singaporean version, also claimed by some of its neighbors. The version I saw most often in Singapore used pork as the protein and also typically included egg and bean sprouts, although the other vegetables varied in the different interpretations of the dish.

Where I enjoyed it: Straits Kitchen, which is a good place to sample many Singaporean specialties because it’s a buffet, especially if you have limited time in country. While the dish is typically made with pork, this buffet is halal so offers a non-pork version.

Chili Crab

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This was the first item that was on my ‘To Eat’ list for Singapore, as my sister’s top notable bite when she visited. The whole crab is cooked in a deliciously spicy umami bomb of flavor, which keeps you coming back for more as you enjoy each chunk of crab. Eating is a messy business, but the flavor is so delicious you’ll want some sort of bread or rice to absorb the goodness of the sauce as you eat.

Where I enjoyed it: No Signboard Seafood, although do research into which of their locations you frequent, as some branches have more consistently good food than others. I also hear great things about Long Beach Seafood (which is actually next to where I enjoyed fish head curry – see below)

Fish Head Curry

Fish Head Curry Singapore 20161106_125454

Like the cultural mix that is Singapore itself, fish head curry is considered to be a cross between an Indian curry and the Chinese delicacy of eating a fish head. While seeing the fish’s eyes staring back at you may give you pause, the rich fish cheeks are to be savored, especially along with the curry sauce.

Where I enjoyed it: Samy’s Curry, close Singapore’s Botanic Gardens

Hainanese Chicken Rice

Hainanese Chicken Rice Singapore 20161104_133545

Although named after a Chinese province, it is believed that this dish really was created in Singapore by Chinese immigrants. The chicken is slow poached and then served sliced, with or without the skin. It is the texture and flavor imparted to the chicken during the cooking process that makes this basic-sounding dish so unique and delicious.

Where I enjoyed it: Boon Tong Kee, which started out as a food stall and now is a sit-down restaurant

Laksa

Laksa Singapore 20161102_184029

The story of this dish’s origin varies, but the important thing is that it is beloved by Singaporeans and claimed as their own. Laksa is a soup version of a coconut-based Asian curry, with rice noodles and various types of seafood to soak up the broth that is a perfect balance of salty, spicy, sweet, and sour notes.

Where I enjoyed it: 328 Katong Laksa, a Bib Gourmand pick for great value in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore

Satay

Satay Singapore 20161103_192741

Satay is grilled meat on a skewer, with the types of meat varying by the place. I love getting an assortment of meats, all of which impart a different flavor as you dip it in the typical peanut sauce served alongside. You’ll smell the aromas of the meat wafting toward you from many hawker stalls, although you’ll get authentic versions pretty much anywhere in Singapore.

Where I enjoyed it: Lantern Rooftop Bar at the Fullerton Hotel, overlooking the marina

Singaporean Breakfast

Singaporean Breakfast 20161105_123911

I can’t stop raving about Singaporean breakfast, so much so that I wrote an entire blog post about it, which you can check out here. The typical local breakfast involves Singaporean coffee (they roast the coffee beans in butter!) along with kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. The kaya spread is basically a coconut jam, but its sweetness is a great contrast to the eggs made savory with soy sauce sprinkled over top. Eat this every day you’re in Singapore!

Where I enjoyed it: Several places you can read about in my blog post, although my favorite spot for the quality of its kaya spread was Killiney Kopitiam, which has several branches across Singapore

What is your favorite local food in Singapore? Anything I missed that you think should also be on this short list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore - Foodie Bucket List

How to Make the Most of Chinese New Year in Hong Kong

How to Make the Most of Chinese New Year in Hong Kong

Chinese New Year in Hong Kong is a series of celebrations so spectacular that many mainland Chinese – along with visitors from around the world – travel to the city to join in the festivities. Each year, there are a series of events, including the iconic fireworks display over Victoria Harbour. After spending a week in Hong Kong around Chinese New Year two years ago (my second visit), it’s hands-down the time I’d recommend for a trip.

Chinese New Year follows the lunar calendar, so while it consistently takes place in late January to mid-February, the exact dates change each year – so check a calendar before planning your trip. Also, a lesser known fact that I love is that in the Chinese calendar (depending on which approach you subscribe to), the new year is around 4715! Just a wee bit ahead of the Gregorian calendar. This is obviously representative of the long history of Chinese dynasties and how long they’ve been keeping track.

If you haven’t planned for it, you’ll know you’re in Hong Kong for Chinese New Year by the abundance of orange and tangerine plants being sold at stores, displayed at hotel entrances, and located pretty much everywhere you turn. It’s considered auspicious to eat – or at least display – the fruit as the Chinese word for orange is a homophone with the word for success & the word for tangerine contains the Chinese character for luck.

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It is also traditional for people to exchange red (or otherwise decorated) lai see envelopes containing cash as a gift for good luck prosperity in the new year. In general these envelopes are given from senior to junior colleagues in an office and from married to single relatives. And it is customary not to open the envelopes in front of the giver, so you’ll see many people around town with a collection of red envelopes.

Read on for more about the Chinese New Year traditions to expect, the ways Hong Kong celebrates every year, and other sights to explore during your time in Hong Kong.

Things to Do to Celebrate the Chinese New Year

Just a wee bit crowded at the flower market

Explore the Flower Market

If you’d like to explore all of the nooks and crannies of the Flower Market at a leisurely pace, go on one of the days leading up to the eve of Chinese New Year. For the quintessential, so-crowded-you-can-barely-walk experience, head to Victoria Park after dinner on Chinese New Year eve. You’ll wait in long queues to enter, and feel as if the entire rest of Hong Kong is there with you, but that is also the most festive time and when you’ll get the deepest discounts if you’re looking to make a purchase.

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Join a Family ‘Reunion Dinner’ on New Year’s Eve

It is traditional for families to gather together on the eve of Chinese New Year for a ‘reunion dinner.’ If you’re extra lucky like me, you have family who lives in Hong Kong who will invite you to their house, where we enjoyed each other’s company and a festive meal, along with a family friend. If you have any contacts or even friends of friends there, I recommend joining one of these meals, or creating your own festive meal out with your travel companions and friends you’ve met on the road. And of course, there are traditional Chinese dishes you can seek out for good luck in the new year.

TIP! When you’re looking for food the following day (on Chinese New Year’s Day), be aware that many restaurants will have a surcharge that is a percentage of your bill added to your check. And many spots will be closed, so do your homework before you show up somewhere to dine on the national holiday. There are still some great options, especially in the more central areas, including Mak’s Noodle where I enjoyed lunch the New Year’s Day I spent there.

Well, that's one way to raise money

Attend the Parade

There is annual parade on the evening of Chinese New Year Day, on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, beginning in the Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) area. If you plan ahead, there are spectator seats for sale, otherwise it is free to stand anywhere else along the parade route. It is a mix of traditional Chinese performances, like the dragon, as well as a variety of foreign performers who are invited to participate.

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View the Fireworks Display

I don’t exaggerate when I say that the fireworks in Hong Kong for Chinese New Year are epic. You’ll want to stake out a spot close to the Harbour in advance where you can get a good view of the 20-minute spectacle. Fireworks are set off for the New Year, as it is believed that they drive off evil spirits. The fireworks display in Hong Kong takes place each year on the evening of the day after Chinese New Year’s Day (the second day of the new year), along with a classical musical accompaniment.

TIP! As soon as the fireworks end, the hordes of people set off in search of dinner. Have a plan within walking distance for where you’ll go for dinner after the fireworks (if you haven’t already eaten) or where you’ll be able to go close to your viewing point. While the MTR (metro) and buses will be running, they will be at their most crowded, so you shouldn’t count on them as an immediate means of transportation.

(More) Things to Do in and around Hong Kong

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Victoria’s Peak

Known colloquially in Hong Kong as “the Peak,” Victoria’s Peak is located on Hong Kong Island. There is an expansive view of the Harbour and Kowloon on the other side from the summit. There is a steep trail where you can hike to the top, or a funicular tram that will get you there.

TIP! The tram can get quite crowded (especially in the Chinese New Year period), so plan to hike up by foot or go outside of this time if you can. Or even if you take the tram to the top, you can save yourself the time of waiting in the line to descend and instead hike down on foot.

Light Show

Like Singapore, Hong Kong sure knows how to take advantage of all of its tall buildings with the nightly light show at 8:00pm involving 40 (!) buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbour. If you watch from the Wan Chai promenade or outside the ICC building, you can also hear the accompanying soundtrack that really brings it to life. It’s also popular to watch it from a boat crossing the Harbour.

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Star Ferry

Yes, there is the metro that will take you across, but there is no more iconic way to cross Victoria Harbour than on the quite inexpensive Star Ferry, at least once during your visit. It runs back and forth between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon side about every 10 minutes and gives you a great view of both skylines. If you watch it pull away or dock, you can see one of the crew members still throwing a rope by hand to attach and detach the boat.

Kowloon night market

Kowloon

A lot of tourists will stick to the Hong Kong Island side, but even if you have no tourist destinations in mind, head to the Kowloon side across the Harbour to get a very different flavor of Hong Kong life. It is more densely-populated than Hong Kong Island, and has a variety of attractions worth checking out, from the Kowloon Walled City Park (commemorating the self-contained enclave that was a crime haven throughout most of the 1900s then demolished) to the Temple Street night market.

Highest Bar in the World

Hong Kong boasts the highest bar in the world, the Ozone Bar on the 118th floor of the International Commerce Center (ICC) building, as part of the Ritz-Carlton hotel there. It is so high up that you are above the clouds, so go when it is a clear day or night for a different perspective on the Hong Kong skyline.

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Hiking

When you conjure up an image of Hong Kong, you probably envision a collection of skyscrapers, all crowded in next to each other in some of the most densely-populated neighborhoods in the world. But the truth is that the vast majority of the islands that comprise Hong Kong are undeveloped and pristine nature areas with a wealth of hiking trails to guide your path. And even if you’re staying in ‘Central’ – basically downtown Hong Kong – it’s usually just a hop on the MTR (metro) or a cheap taxi ride to arrive at the start of a hike well off the beaten path.

Museums

The one museum I visited during my visit was the Hong Kong Museum of History, which does a great job outlining different periods in Hong Kong’s founding. It provided some great context for the region that I didn’t get in the rest of my sightseeing. If museums are your thing, or you’re faced with rainy weather, there are a ton of other museums in Hong Kong to visit, from the expected (the Hong Kong Maritime Museum) to the obscure (Hong Kong International Hobby and Toy Museum).

Buddhist Temples and Sites

The two main Buddha-related sights are the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery and Tian Tan Buddha, otherwise known as the Big Buddha. For both, you are better off visiting on a non-holiday weekday if possible. The Big Buddha, part of the Ngong Ping Village, is best accessed by the cable car that you can find adjacent to the Tung Chung MTR (metro) station. The Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery is also metro accessible, from the Sha Tin MTR station.

TIP! Buddhist temples and tourist attractions – especially the Big Buddha – are likely to be slammed on the holiday days of the Chinese New Year, as pretty much everyone has off from work and many of those people have additional family members visiting. Reserve spots ahead of time and if possible (even with a reservation) go on the days before or after the two-day New Year holiday. Or first thing in the morning before the lines will keep you queuing for hours.

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One of the Macau market streets

Visit Macau

Macau, like Hong Kong, is also a “Special Administrative Region” of China, and is easily accessible by ferry from Hong Kong. Leading up to Chinese New Year, it will be packed during the day with Chinese mainlanders who come over for the day to stock up on holiday foods and other shopping for a fresh start to the new year. However, not only is it great to experience the decorations for lunar new year interspersed with the Portuguese flavor of this former colonial outpost, there are a lot of great deals on hotel accommodations in this period.

 

What’s your favorite Chinese New Year tradition? And what are the best places where you’ve celebrated Chinese New Year before? Let me know in the Comments below!

Happy travels, and I wish you all a very happy Chinese New Year – gong hei fat choi!!

Lana

How to Make the Most of

9 Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka: A Destination With It All

9 Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka: A Destination With It All

Every time I recommend Sri Lanka as a travel destination to someone, the first thing that comes to mind is the great variety of activities you can do on this single island. Anywhere else, you’d have to go to at least half a dozen different destinations to get comparable offerings. In Sri, Lanka, it feels like you can do it all:

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Explore Ancient Temples

One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy on December 31st, because not only is that an auspicious day to go, but I also ended up standing two feet from the Sri Lankan President who also visited that day! I was close enough to get a great selfie with him, but it seemed rude to turn my back on him while I was so close, so I settled for a few excited pictures. And the exhilaration of the travel magic when you happen to land in the right place at the right time for an experience that no amount of planning would have created. There are of course ancient temples all across the island, worth exploring if you happen to be nearby or even planning your itinerary around.

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Relax on the Beach

Sri Lanka is an island, so there is plenty of coastline to choose from. Along the western coast south of Colombo and continuing along the southern side of the island are a wide variety of hotels and resorts, including several all-inclusive and luxury options. The beaches on the eastern coast are more isolated, and possibly even more visually stunning. I stayed in a resort on the coast south of Colombo for a few nights, doing not much and decompressing before the more active itinerary for the 1.5 weeks after. Beaches are also accessible from many of the proper towns along the coast that have famous beaches nearby that you can check out with an inexpensive tuk-tuk ride during your stay.

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Go Whale (and Dolphin) Watching

This is one of many items on this list that I consider a “bucket list” item, and it’s so incredible to me that this is one of several once-in-a-lifetime options you have to see wildlife while in Sri Lanka. However, this is one of those activities that require advance planning and due diligence to have a good experience – you’re not likely to accidentally have a great boat trip. I visited in December, when it is peak season for whale watching off Mirissa in the south, and saw many dolphins and several whales the morning I went.

The down side? Due to the size of the boat (too big with too many passengers) as well as the poor organization and communication from the crew, I spent the most visually spectacular moments of the trip doubled over seasick, and barely got any pictures of the morning at all. Be sure if you go to: take a pill to combat seasickness (even if you don’t normally have trouble) and ensure that you will share the boat with as few others as possible. And if they put you on a boat bigger than what was guaranteed during your booking, demand something smaller as promised.

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Discover the Capital City of Colombo

Colombo is a bustling capital city, with a lot of different cultures and traditions represented, and not unlike other capital cities I’ve visited across Asia. It is a former colonial outpost, reflecting the Portuguese, Dutch, and British influences over the years. Colombo also boasts modern skyscrapers and an abundance of fancy rooftop bars with a cosmopolitan atmosphere for watching the sun set. And there are a ton of places where you feel the presence of locals, with street food stands and markets. Although I am not always a huge fan of organized tours or guides, it is worth taking in a few hours of knowledge from a local and getting a verbal history of the many nuances of Colombo that are not immediately visible.

Surf

Surfing is hugely popular on the beaches of Sri Lanka, and many visitors come just for that. You’ll see a mix of backpackers staying put for a while to do some surfing every day for weeks, tourists trying the sport for the first time, and locals taking advantage of the proximity of the waves. While unfortunately I did not get the chance to do any surfing in Sri Lanka myself, I saw plenty of beaches with surfers, with some catering nearly exclusively to the surfing community. Whatever your level of expertise – or even if you’re a complete beginner – there will definitely be an option close to you with the right difficulty of waves.

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Explore Colonial Forts

The coastline of Sri Lanka is dotted with forts that in most cases passed through the control of the three colonial powers: the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British. I visited the Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the southwest that is probably the most popular Sri Lankan fort to visit. It’s actually more like a mini city, with all of the specialized buildings needed to be a self-sufficient community. As most of the fortifications are along the coast, they are also great spots for scenic views of the ocean.

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Visit Tea Plantations (& Do Tea Tastings)

I’m a bit of an accidental tea lover, after getting into tea tastings after moving to Milan, and realizing how similar they were to the wine tastings I already appreciated. By the time I visited Sri Lanka in late 2015, tasting tea was an activity I was actively incorporating into my itinerary, and that was one of the many reasons I was excited for the trip. The good news about tea and Sri Lanka is that there are many spots across the country where you can do tea tastings and buy local tea and – especially in the central ‘Hill Country’ – lots of large tea plantations to tour and hike. Even if tea is not your thing, you’ll definitely be served plenty during your visit, so why not embrace it? You’ll learn a bit about tea, and get a better understanding of which types you most enjoy.

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Go on Safari

When I think of going on safari, I envision Africa, so I was quite surprised in my trip research that this is a popular activity in Sri Lanka as well due to the incredible wild animal populations. There are national parks all over the island where you can experience safari, with your choice depending on the time of year of your visit and which animals you’d like to see most. I did a safari in Yala National Park on the southern coast, and saw many impressive creatures, including many of the large game animals: elephants and leopards. There are plenty of options and countless tour providers, or you can plan for accommodations nearby and arrange a day (or several) of safari through your hotel.

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Eat Incredibly Well

From bowl-shaped crepes called hoppers for breakfast to “rice and curry” that comes with half a dozen side dishes, Sri Lankan cuisine was a delightful surprise. Due to its proximity to southern India, Sri Lanka has a lot of Indian influence on its food, both in the predominance of curries and also the roti bread that comes in many forms. You can have it served in what I consider a more Indian style with the roti stuffed like a burrito, or the more street food style kottu roti with the bread chopped up and stir fried on a griddle with eggs, vegetables, and your choice of meat. And if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, eat with your hands like the locals – they think that the metal of silverware alters the taste of the food, and you get the best taste by not using any.

 

While I’ve never been to India, I came back from my Sri Lanka trip calling it “India light” because it featured incredible cuisine quite similar to Indian food, but the overall day-to-day tourist experience was quite pleasant – and lacking the harassment or negotiation needed in other parts of Asia, India or otherwise. People tended to quote reasonable prices the first time you asked. And if you were not interested and said so, they left you alone.

I had such a great time visiting Sri Lanka, and feel like there were plenty of areas I didn’t get a chance to explore over my visit, so I’d go back in a heartbeat. Plus, anywhere the food is that good is always top on my list for a return trip.

What about Sri Lanka appeals most to you? What cities or activities would you like more details about on the blog?

9 Reasons to (2)

 

Travel Superlatives of 2016

Travel Superlatives of 2016

As I reflect back on this past year in travel, there are so many memories that bubble up. Unexpected adventures, delicious meals, and shared laughter with friends. And of course, also rushing through airports, lost luggage, or barely making the last train. About half my trips were with friends or family, and the other half as a solo traveler.

Travel is definitely not all rainbows and unicorns, but as someone told me once about travel: It’s either a great experience . . . or a great story! I end this year with quite a few of both, and heaps of gratitude for all of the adventures I was privileged to experience – the good, the bad, and the random.

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Most New Countries in a Year: 11! (and a full passport to boot)

I didn’t set out this year to visit a ton of new countries, it just sort of happened. Looking back, the new countries I made it to in Europe in 2016 – 6 – is actually quite similar to the 5 new European countries I explored last year (this year it was Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Liechtenstein, Romania, & Sweden for those of you keeping track). Ditto for Asia. Last year, I went to 2 new countries, and this year the same: Indonesia & Singapore. What really put me over the top was making it to Costa Rica for the first time on my family vacation back in August, and also getting a chance to explore 2 new countries in the Middle East with my sister this December: Oman & United Arab Emirates. Thanks, family!!

FYI, my American readers, the US phased out adding extra pages to passports at the end of 2015, so if your passport becomes full like mine, you’ll have to renew it to travel even if it’s not expiring yet. The good news is that when you renew, you can choose the longer length for no additional cost. Obviously something on my immediate to-do list in the new year 😉

Hardest Time Finding a Restaurant: Berat, Albania

When you’re traveling in Albania, you seek out Berat. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is known as The Town of a Thousand Windows for the beautifully window-filled view you get of the hillside from the river. Many people stay in Berat overnight, but it can also be visited as a day trip during a weekend in Tirana like I did with friends back in May. We got an early start, and spent a good part of the morning hiking uphill and exploring the Berat Castle. Well after noon, we felt that we had taken in the sights, but had not been particularly inspired by the food choices inside the castle walls. And we saw one place right outside the walls, but it was a giant eatery with tour buses parked outside, so didn’t seem like our style either. Instead we found the restaurant that everyone had been raving about online as being the spot locals prefer, and started to make our way in that direction.

There were four of us including me, and with several people consulting the maps on their phone, we thought that surely we could find our way to this nearby spot quite quickly, as we were starting to get quite hungry. We started down the one hill connecting the castle entrance to town and it kept looking like a wiggle down the next side street would lead us to the restaurant entrance. I would pop down one alleyway, certain it was finally the right one, and then reappear a minute later dejected that there was no eatery present. Eventually, we made it to the bottom of the hill to town and close to the car, but let’s be real – we were committed to finding the restaurant at this stage! We drove a bit to side streets where an alternate online map placed the taverna. Then we returned to the bottom of the hill where we had started, and asked some locals passing by if they knew how to get there. Finally, after what was probably *way* too much time floundering on our own, we called the restaurant. The owner, being so gracious at what was now probably around 2pm, actually came to fetch us.

We were able to follow him in his car on a meandering path that brought us . . . to a restaurant right at the top of the path right by the castle! I think it had been hidden by the hilltop and the large restaurant with the tourist buses, but of course we had been right there at the beginning. Fortunately all of our efforts were rewarded, with a massive, delectable feast of Albanian food with a Greek twist at Taverna Lazaro.

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Place I Made the Most Friends on the Road: Waiting in Line for a Kebab in Berlin

I usually make the most friends on the road when I am traveling solo, and this year is no exception. In the end, I actually had relatively few trips when I was in a hostel-type accommodation, which is where I would normally meet other travelers. And although I did walking tours and other group activities on my own, it was actually in a quest for food that I found the most kindred spirits. Nothing brings people together quite like shared queuing, and on this particular night in Berlin, I was set on getting what is probably the city’s most famous kebab. The line was moving along at a decent clip, but then the stand ran out of supplies (!) and had to re-stock. So what was looking like a 20-minute wait became closer to an hour, and I had a chance to gain some insight on the city from two other expats: a Spaniard living and working in Berlin and a Taiwanese student studying there. More proof that you never know who’ll you meet on the road.

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Best Wine Tasting: Argiolas in Cagliari (Sardinia, Italy)

One of the best parts of living in Europe is the wine. Grapes tend to be very local, and grown and processed in a way to complement the typical food of a region. I’ve done my fair share of wine tasting all over Europe in 2016 (and even a bit in Australia this year), but there was one experience that was especially memorable and stands out from the rest – doing a tour and tasting at Argiolas Winery in Sardinia, a bit outside of Cagliari. Although I’ve gone on many wine tours, I felt like I actually learned about their specific techniques and how they differ from other wineries. And the tasting itself was just fabulous. My friend and I had one person talking us through the wines, accompanied by a bit of local food. All of the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were so delicious, that we didn’t even realize until we had finished the last wine that we had taken so long our tasting had gone past the winery’s opening hours. Which really, is just a testament to the level of Italian hospitality we received.

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Craziest Hotel Check-in: Nessebar, Bulgaria

We’ve all been there. The crazy frustration of trying to find your hotel. It should be just around the corner. Or the GPS sends you one direction, but it just doesn’t like the correct route. Or in this case, sends you down a precarious gravel path. “No,” you think, “this can’t be right.” So you try an alternate route – which also turns out to be another gravel path. Finally you give up, and just park the corner in a random corner of the Bulgarian gravel road. And look up. And your friend says, “Hey, doesn’t that look like the picture of our hotel?”

End of story, right? If only… After confirmation from a nearby shop owner that we had indeed arrived at the correct destination, we walk into the building lobby. And there’s no reception. Hmmm….surely there must be staff somewhere, right? A quick pop to the salon downstairs finds it deserted. We call the phone number in the booking confirmation, and no reply. Then the waitress at the on-site restaurant is trying to be helpful, but speaks no English (and we speak no Bulgarian). Finally she directs us to one of the men sunbathing at the pool. My first thought is that it’s because he speaks English, but he actually turns out to be the building’s owner. “Great!” was my first – and misplaced – reaction. After studying the booking confirmation, the owner declares that there is no rental in his building under that description.

Ah, every frequent traveler’s nightmare. They gave away the last room, or the booking never existed in the first place. Images of curling up in the tiny car’s backseat for the night flash through my head, when the owner takes a moment to call the phone number we have on speakerphone. I catch a glance at his phone screen and realize that when he clicked “Send” a name popped up from his phone’s Contact List. As I wonder whether this is a good or bad sign, he quickly hangs up before someone has a chance to answer. He makes another call. This time it finally sounds promising, and I hear what sounds like “Italien” and I start gesturing saying, yes, I have an Italian phone number I used for my booking, it’s us. Does that mean we finally have a place to stay?? And yes, we have a room! He knows this person, and she is going to come and show us to our rooms. Imagine our relief when the room is just as expected, and even has a complimentary bottle of Bulgarian wine to greet us. As the door clicks behind her, out comes the joint, palpable, audible sigh. We’re finally checked in.

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Most People Visited in a Country I’ve Never Lived: 8 in Singapore

I visit friends in my travels often, and in fact, having a friend living in a foreign country is the best reason to get there for a visit! It’s great having a reason to explore a new, unexpected destination, and was how I picked several of my travel destinations this past year. Usually I travel to visit a single friend or family, with London as my usual exception, although most of my friends who live there I met in Milan. So it was quite random when I realized as I planned my November travel that I actually know quite a few people living in Singapore and there was never a better time to go.

There is the close Milan friend and previous around-the-corner neighbor who lives there with her husband and daughter, but may not be staying in Singapore much longer. The Singaporean college friend who I had seen relatively recently when she came to visit Milan during the World Expo last year, but whose days in Singapore are probably numbered as well. And then there’s the high school friend and her Singaporean husband and two children who only recently moved to Singapore. Several of these friends are now what I like to call 3-continent friends – people I’ve spent time with on three different continents. And for me it’s definitely notable to have so many different people from different stages of my life who just happen to all live in the same tiny island nation. While I didn’t know much about Singapore before visiting (other than having a ton of friends to visit), I became obsessed with the Singaporean style of breakfast and Singapore was one of my favorite destinations this year!

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Craziest Adventurous Things I Did:

Pemberton Climbing Trees (Australia) & Walking to Al Sawadi Island and Fort (Oman)

For me being adventurous doesn’t mean having no fear. Being adventurous is being confronted with something scary and/or dangerous, and then going outside of your comfort zone to do it anyway. There were two things in 2016 that really got my adrenaline pumping, both for being ostensibly dangerous, as well as me not really knowing what to expect ahead of time. First, was scaling the Pemberton climbing trees, which involved some incredibly tall trees and not much of a safety net. It was a bit terrifying, but also quite rewarding to reach the tops and take in the expansive views. Read more about the full experience in my post linked above and here.

The second pretty crazy thing I did was on my recent Oman trip with my sister. On the coast north of Muscat, there is a spot called Al Sawadi, with a nearby island and fort not too far off the beach. While there are boats you can pay to take you across, I had read something about being able to *walk* to the island during low tide. We arrived around 4pm and the water was looking quite low, but there was no one else walking across or anyone to ask. After a little bit of a walk when the water reached just up to knee level, we decided to go for it. This is only slightly complicated in Oman by the fact that it is a modest Muslim country where your shoulders and knees should be covered at all times in public. So you’re not just stripping down to your bikini and going for it. But venturing out into the unknown was great – the thrill and exhilaration of not knowing whether we’d be able to make it across, or if we did, how high the water level would rise before we reached the shore. In the end, my zip-off pants only got a little wet, and then we arrived and had the island entirely to ourselves! We hiked in our sport sandals to the top of the fort, took lots of pictures with the cell phones we were brave enough to carry for the journey, and had an even-lower tide for the walk back to where we had left the car, making it back across just as the sun set. An incredible and memorable experience, I’m reliving the excitement just typing about it.

Time Most Worth it to Trust a Stranger: Heading to the Cave at Wadi Khalid, Oman

I’m from New York, so it’s sort of second nature that when a stranger offers to help me out of the blue, my radar goes off and I become super skeptical of everything the person says and suggests. Perhaps it’s not the most open and loving way to live, but that is always my knee-jerk reaction: caution. Fortunately, the day exploring Wadi Khalid in Oman (a series of interconnected water pools and caves in the desert) came far enough into the week-long road trip that I already knew how hospitable Omanis were. Plus, they are so excited to see tourists – especially American ones – that they want you to have an amazing experience so you inspire others to visit when you go home.

As my sister and I were following the vague arrows pointing toward the Wadi’s famous cave, a man in traditional Omani dress fell into step beside us. He told us that he was heading to the cave as well, and as a local, knew the way quite well. My mind at this point was racing with possibilities, but we were just walking in that direction and were outside with plenty of other visitors. At one point I did inquire as to why he was so interested in showing us around, and he revealed that he was a police officer in Muscat and wanted to practice his English. It sounded legit, and again, we were not alone, but it was quite interesting crouching into a dark cave with no signs or directions, blindly following the instincts of a local who had been many times before. Our new Omani friend Said was a great guide, showing us the water source of the wadi, pointing out bats that were hanging from the ceiling just above our heads, and giving us the full experience of the cave. There’s no way my sister and I would have ventured that far alone, and it was just incredible to see the caverns and crevices inside.

Biggest Travel Injury: Stubbed Toe in Abu Dhabi

Anyone who knows me knows that I can be quite clumsy, so an injured toe as my biggest injury of the year is a major accomplishment. Interestingly enough, if I am doing a potentially dangerous activity like rock climbing or cliff diving, I’m quite attentive and tend to emerge unscathed. My biggest injuries ever? Both my broken collarbone and severely injured finger resulted from what was essentially me tripping over my own feet.

Stubbing my toe in Abu Dhabi doesn’t sound serious, but it was quite a wound. Basically, I was walking back to bed after a middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom, and didn’t realize that one of the stylish chairs with metal legs reached out almost to the edge of the bed. I thought I would have cleared it by a mile, but instead I walked quite decisively forward and essentially sliced my second toe open. So it was more serious (and bloody) than your typical stubbed toe, and it hurt to walk for the next 10 days, as in it was painful taking e-v-e-r-y s-i-n-g-l-e s-t-e-p. But for a year of travel and adventure (and given my lifelong tendency to injure myself weirdly and quite seriously), not too bad at all.

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Travel First: Getting Put Up in a Hotel

Lost luggage? Yes, many times, sometimes for up to several days.

Missed a connecting flight? Of course, but usually with good, alternate options to still get there within a few hours.

Been on an overbooked flight offering vouchers? Plenty of times, but usually when I was in the US traveling for work and had to be somewhere by a certain time, so I’d never taken advantage.

Slept in an airport? Sure, most memorably at the Dallas airport in a snowstorm when I was trying to be there for the first flight back to New York for New Year’s Eve & at the Kuala Lumpur budget terminal (never again!)

Missing a connection and needing to stay in a hotel overnight? That had never happened to me before – until a week ago, so just under the wire to be part of my 2016 travel superlatives. I had just over an hour of transit time at London’s Heathrow Airport, which is cutting it quite close to begin with. Then, as we were lining up to board the bus that would take us to the plane in Milan, the snow started to fall. What?!? It almost never snows in Milan, because it’s usually not quite cold enough. And snow certainly had not been part of the forecast. When the captain announced that there was a long line to de-ice the plane and we would likely be delayed at least 30 minutes, I flagged over a flight attendant to ask about my connection. When he informed me that you need to scan through the transfer desk at Heathrow 35 minutes before your departure time to be allowed on the plane, I knew I was in trouble. In the US, they would likely send information up to the plane about the connecting flight, or at least the crew would be able to phone and request it. For this London connection, I had the sinking feeling that I would be out of luck, which was confirmed when we touched down an hour late.

By the time someone was available to help me at the re-booking desk, the best option was just to take the same early afternoon flight the following day. Spend an unexpected 24 hours in London, catching up with friends and soaking up the holiday atmosphere? If I must…

Most Times Crossing Paths with a Friend – and half the time accidentally!

It’s one thing to plan a lot of travel with a good friend, it’s quite another to have the one person you keep running into at unplanned moments in unexpected cities. Of the 6 times I’ve crossed paths with this one particular friend, our run-ins have spanned 4 cities on 2 continents – and only 2 were arranged in advance! We had planned to be in Bucharest, Romania (where she is from) over the same weekend in early June so she could show me around and we could hang out. Then a few weeks beforehand when her schedule was too busy on a business trip to Milan, a work dinner fell through and she messaged me last minute so we met up for a meal. In August when I was in New York, she messaged me about a last-minute work trip that had also brought her to the city, so we had another unplanned meal together. And then, the very next night on the way to meet another friend, I walked into another restaurant in a completely different part of town. And the first person I see? This same friend! Our 5th meeting of the year was arranged in advance, when I came to London to see the American football (NFL) game with my home team playing. And then on my recent missed connection in London, I messaged this friend to see if she was possibly around. It turned out that about an hour after my message she was actually coming to the same terminal of Heathrow Airport where I was stranded! So we met up for a coffee, and our last in a string of prolific, unexpected run-ins throughout 2016.

 

What were the stand-out moments of your 2016 travel??

11 Ways Singapore is Like Hong Kong – and why you should visit both!

11 Ways Singapore is Like Hong Kong – and why you should visit both!

I had very little in the way of expectations before visiting Singapore. I knew that its cuisine was a mix of influences from across Asia, and that food culture is strong. But really, I did not know much else. I booked my plane ticket without having a single item on my “To Do” list – although I had already gotten recommendations from friends for two places to eat when I arrived. And I have three different sets of friends living there, for various reasons. Some Singaporean, some as expats, and what I wanted most was to spend time with them.

So onto this blank slate, after a lazy first morning, I spent an afternoon getting to know the city. By the time the late rain broke and I was heading to the marina area for some more tourist exploration it occurred to me what had been on the edge of my consciousness all day – Singapore is so similar to Hong Kong!

I wondered if talking about the similarities between the two locales would be enough material for a blog post, and jotted down a few notes. Within minutes, I had nearly a dozen ways the two places were alike. An idea that was later cemented by a Singaporean friend who commented how “Singapore is becoming more like Hong Kong every day.” I loved both places and would go back to visit Singapore and Hong Kong in a heartbeat – and this is after a week (or more) in both places, coming nowhere close to exhausting the “things to do” or “places to eat.”

Here are some of my observations on ways the two cities are alike:

Efficiency
Airports with a lot of international arrivals should be taking their cues from Hong Kong and Singapore (I’m looking at you, Milan Malpensa). Customs waits are negligible or sometimes nonexistent, and everything is done with the customer in mind. Even taxi lines are rapid – in Singapore I didn’t even have the two minutes it took to get a WiFi password before I was whisked away in a cab. And in Hong Kong, you can check your luggage with your airline at the Central Station in town, so you don’t need to worry about dragging your large bag on the train to the airport.

Of course, an airport is just a microcosm of how efficient a place is overall, and the smoothness and quickness of service everywhere mirrored this. If you want to see efficiency in Singapore at its best, just go wait in line for a Singaporean breakfast somewhere, it functions like clockwork or perhaps a well-orchestrated ballet.

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Cityscape filled with High-Rise Buildings
Both Singapore and Hong Kong have dramatic cityscapes, where one modern high-rise next to another has sprung up to meet the increasing housing demand that comes with economic growth. Both places also are in the top five most densely-populated areas in the world. This means a lot of people packed into a small geographic area, but this is also what gives both places its bustle and energy, not to mention endless culinary options.

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Abundance of Street Food
Speaking of which, there is an abundance of street food or food-on-the-go in Singapore and Hong Kong. A lot of this I think is tied to the speed of life that comes with high population density and people toiling away at work. Also, as apartments get smaller (and kitchens along with them) it can be practical to get your meals out of the house. Not only is eating out at these small vendors often cheaper than cooking at home, you also encounter someone who has spent a lifetime mastering the one dish that they sell, yielding delicious results.

Spread at Hong Kong's Tim Ho Wan, at the time the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world
Spread at Hong Kong’s Tim Ho Wan, at the time the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world

Michelin Dining on the Cheap
Hong Kong has had a Michelin guide for a while, and through when I visited in 2015, the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world was located there. When the first Michelin guide to Singapore came out in mid-2016, a couple of hawker stands that received one star served meals that were even cheaper. Certainly Michelin is not the only arbiter of good cuisine (that’s a whole ‘nother debate), but it is definitely an indicator of the value for money and delicious bites you can get eating in both places.

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Metro Systems
Hong Kong’s MTR and Singapore’s MRT systems are nearly twins. Some features – like the lanes marked on the ground so people leaving the train have space to exit before others board – I’ve seen in other Asian cities, like Bangkok. However, even the station map inside the train car has an incredibly similar setup of flashing lights for the current station and a separate indicator to let you know which side of the train will have its doors opening at the next stop. An excellent and inexpensive means of transport in both cities that I relied on heavily during my stays.

Large Expat Communities
Not only does this explain why I had reason to spend so much time in both Singapore and Hong Kong (thank you, hospitable friends!), but having a large expat community in both cities is intricately entwined with their growth. Large expat communities also mean that the services to keep them happy follow, so everything from yoga classes to restaurants serving a variety of ethnic cuisines are readily available for you, the visitor. What makes expat living easy and comfortable also extends to travelers, making both cities great places for a holiday.

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Rooftop Bars
Build a city of skyscrapers and what do you get? Rooftop bars! Singapore has a lot of rooftop or high-floor bars, especially in the area of the marina. Hong Kong offers more of the same, including the highest bar in the world – so high, that the night I went there we were *above* the clouds and there was no view of the city. But I hear it’s amazing on clear days…

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Light Shows
For some reason, both Hong Kong and Singapore love their light shows – and so did I! In Hong Kong, there is the LED digital display of animation that shows nightly on the ICC building. If you’re in the vicinity, watch from the outdoor terrace where you can also hear the musical accompaniment. Singapore also has a musically orchestrated show, with lasers and fountains around the iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel – watch from anywhere on the marina or from a boat on the water to hear the music as well. And even more surprising for me, the light show in Singapore’s Supertree Grove at the Gardens by the Bay is not set to classical music like the others, but instead features Broadway showtunes. So fun =)

Cheap Taxis
Yes, public transit is wonderful, but sometimes a taxi is the most convenient way to arrive at your destination. Not to worry, Hong Kong and Singapore feature the cheapest taxis of possibly anywhere I’ve ever visited. Want to bar hop across Singapore’s downtown area? No problem. Want to catch a taxi to the start of an obscure hike off the beaten path in Hong Kong? Yup, I did that too when I visited. Having cabs as a cheap transportation option makes it an easier decision to just go and do something spontaneous or inconvenient that you might otherwise think twice about doing.

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Islands Galore
The relatively self-contained areas make both destinations easy to explore with many coastal areas and islands. Singapore of course is its own country, with the main island, and dozens of other smaller ones nearby. Hong Kong is now a “Special Administrative Region” of China (like Macau), and consists of a few main islands and areas, with lots of smaller islands nearby. In both places, you can stay in the center and soak up city life, lounge on the beach of a nearby island, or hike the lush, green hills. Variety is the spice of life.

English!
Thanks, British colonialism, for making Hong Kong and Singapore such easy travel destinations. Due to their history, The English language abounds in both locations, making it that much easier to be a tourist. From restaurant menus to museum descriptions, it’s just a little bit easier to navigate a new place when everything is ready to read and you can ask for directions or recommendations in English from most people you encounter.

 

Although I now have spent a week in both Hong Kong and Singapore, I loved them both so much I want to go back the next time I’m in Asia. Fortunately, both locales have excellent flight connections around the region, so kicking off my next Asian adventure with a few days in Hong Kong or ending with a few days exploring more of Singapore is totally feasible.

Have you ever been somewhere that so strongly reminded you of somewhere else? Of course, Hong Kong and Singapore have their own nuances, but it is clear to me why I love both so much!

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